Fairtax4me

If you're gonna weld, just weld a 4 foot length of 2" pipe straight to the retainer.

Kinda sounds like Bad MAF sensor.

Aftermarket head bolts I've had some problems with the threads and read of a few breaking. If they're original Subaru bolts reuse them. If they're aftermarket I replace them just as precaution. Better to spend the money on New head bolts than to have a used one snap off in the block and have to $@&%# around with getting the broken end out.

Pretty sure that's right. If you have a pigtail from the 3 wire alt the wire colors will match the existing wires in your harness.

Nissan... ugh... Aftermarket axles, crapshoot. I've tried a few recently just to see if any of the current options are any good. After trying a cardone, and another brand that I'm blanking on the name of, and both starting to make noise within a few weeks (on plain stock customers vehicles) I started looking at New axles instead of reman. Napa listed one for about $85 online and when I got to the store the new guys tried to charge me $120 for it. My usual salesman wasn't there that day. It was made in China, and I couldn't tell the difference between that on and the one I saw for $60 at a local parts store I now use for most of my shop supplies. I went back to napa the next day and talked to my usual salesman and he made the price $75. Worth a shot, so I now have a New Napa Chinese axle, and a New "AutoExtra" brand Chinese axle on two different vehicles for about 4 months now. Dunno how long they'll last but it's better than the previous two reman axles so far. Can't always convince customers that it's worth it to pay for me to rebuild an axle at $200. They would rather have it fixed in an hour for $100 (with a $40 axle) and be on their way. But I make it clear that I don't provide warranty coverage on aftermarket axles. If it starts making noise in a week, they're paying me another $100 to R&I another axle. I still prefer to reboot OEM axles if I can, but lately the junkyard supply in my area has gone to mostly aftermarket pull-offs and I don't bother with rebooting those. More than likely I'll start pushing the dealer reman axles since they've come down in price a bit in the last couple years.

Is the axle fee in the hub? Heat the knuckle with a propane torch in a few spots for about 45 seconds to get it to expand a little. Doesn't need to be red, just needs to be a little warmer than the bearing housing to loosen up a bit.

Look up Retroroo. ShawnW (owner of this forum)

It takes a LOT LESS force to knock bearings out by the bolts than what you probably think. Did that jeep have 35s on it?

It takes several months for the normal draw from the electronics in the car to kill a battery. If the battery is unable to start the engine in less than a month, even with being driven only every few days, something else is wrong. It's not uncommon for an original battery to die in a short time period, but a replacement shouldn't be dead a month later unless something else is happening.

I've had those slide hammers pull the hub out and leave the bearing housing. Not that it matters, the hub isn't being reused with this style bearing, but you end up hammering the housing out in the end anyway. Use the bolt method above and they usually come out with a few solid hits. I will say those slide hammer kits are 100% necessary for certain bearnings like Toyota where the rear axle comes out with the bearing retainer on it.

If you store the tires standing or on a rack with the weight of the tire on the tread they will develop flat spots from sitting in the same orientation for long periods. This will happen to any tire regardless of brand, though some will do it worse than others. Broken belts are very unlikely to happen to all 4 tires at the same time.

The pads might still need to be broken in properly. Performance style pads don't get worked in with soft diving and 3k miles in 6 months... You really haven't gone very far. Take it out and drive the hell out of it and USE those brakes to get them thoroughly broken in and the noise may stop. If not, a change of pads is the only answer. The service manager doesn't know what brakes are on the car, and probably doesn't know any other technical aspect of it either. Service managers tell technicians and advisors what to do. Techs work on the cars. Advisors do the paper work and handle customers. An astute salesman Might know the difference in brake pad type from one model to another, but not likely. Car salespeople are focused more on knowing how the car stacks against competition in size, cargo volume, and price. They're also trained to focus on the important aspects that a customer asks about; like leather seats, moonroof, and what color it is. almost no one asks a salesman how the brakes on one car compare to another, it's iust not something people ask about, so it won't be brought up.

There's not much that's economically feasible the rebuild on an AC system. Replacing o-rings, evaporator, condenser, hoses, filter/drier, or TXV/orifice tube anybody with half a grain of inclination can do. But it's important they understand what and how that part works with the rest of the system. And it's very important to understand that refrigerant in the system under high pressure can injure or kill you if you do something wrong. As for rebuilding compressors, skip ahead in this video about 20 seconds for the exploded view of how a typical AC compressor looks inside. It's a good view of what's going on during operation. They're difficult in the sense that there are quite a few moving parts, typically 6 or 8 Pistons moving in unison and some designs have double headed Pistons which means 12-16 cylinders where refrigerant is being compressed to upwards of 250psi. This requires very tight tolerances and extremely clean surfaces during assembly. Even one fleck of dust will start a chain reaction that will ruin a compressor. It's not that it isn't doable, but it's best left to places that do rebuilds in a clean environment. It's also generally cost prohibitive to replace internal parts of a compressor, if you can even find a source. There are places out there that sell compressor parts but they're hard to find and often don't cover a very large Range of compressors. Then imagine paying a shop 5-600 for labor for a compressor rebuild, when a new compressor can usually be bought for much less. Most people would rather have the new part. Something like the clutch, magnet coil , or pulley bearing you can replace yourself with general ease if you can find the parts (They're not always available).

If the Mode control is set on front defog it will run the AC compressor regardless of the AC switch position. Compressor still running at all means you have enough refrigerant left for the pressure switch to allow operation. Adding a half a can of refrigerant should get it good and cold again.

Car-part.com, search by distance Sometimes even the biggest press won't even get these bearings out.

If it's that faint, it's probably normal hypoid gear noise. Ignore it until it gets louder. It'll take a while. I had very noticeable rattling noise from the transmission in my old 95 for 45k miles. Knew it would blow up one day... Car got too rusty and needed too much work to pass VA inspection anymore back in October and that trans never did let me down.

Put some Akebono pads on it and call it good? Not often that brand new brakes squeak. How often do you drive the car? When does it squeak? Backing/pulling out of the driveway in the morning? Soon after you first start driving? Only after you've been on the highway for 20 minutes?

The lip is where the fire ring on the old gasket compressed into the aluminum. Nothing to worry about, put it back together and ride.

Growling noise or helicopter (wuuhb wuuhb) = wheel bearing. changes with speed or with load (turn hard left/right) Whine or whistle type noise that changes slightly with speed but more when accelerating/decelerating is probably rear differential. Rear diffs are tough and don't usually have problems on these. Wheel bearing is far more common and most likely.

Don't worry, there's an app for that somewhere! As per the 2.5 in the 96-99 Legacy, no there's no real reason to change head gaskets unless you have signs of failure - mystery loss of coolant, coolant/ air bubbles pushing out into the overflow container, temp rising on highway trips or when going up long grades. You'll almost never see any smoke, or coolant mixing with the oil, with the failure mode that these gaskets exhibit.

Look on top of the block, behind/under the alternator. It'll say EJ2 something in the square. Then look at the exhaust headers. Two ports on each side or a single port on each? That narrows down which year that engine is.

Could be a failing hi/lo switch. Definitely check connectors at the bulbs first. That's cheaper/easier than a dimmer switch.

How broken is it? Front end wreck? If the belt is intact you need to look at the ARROWS that indicate TDC for leak down testing. Arrows on cam sprockets should point at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock (following firing order) to set valves at TDC closed positions. Using timing hash marks will give you open valves on some cylinders.

Actually picked up a Subaru battery last week. 84 month warranty, 2 years free replacement. $97 w/tax This is for the 35 size which most of the older 4 cyl cars used. Other sizes may be different. They are. Hence the reason other lights in the car dim when you press the brake pedal.

If they installed a used engine there should be a VIN stamped into the block somewhere on the bellhousing. Usually bottom right corner. If it was a dealer reman there may be a 6-8 digit serial number there instead.