Fairtax4me
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Everything posted by Fairtax4me
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Battery is low. Probably had a poor connection when you tried to jump start it. It's better to disconnect the battery and charge it if possible, rather than jump starting. -
Does it have the electronic throttle body? Those often idle low for a while until the ECU has a chance to adapt new idle speed settings. One thing you can do is reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery negative for about 30 minutes. When you reconnect it turn the key on wait about 5 seconds then turn it back off. Do that a few times then start the engine and let it idle on its own. Don't touch the throttle at all. Let it idle until it warms up to operating temp. If it stalls at any time just turn the key off and restart. Let it do its thing and learn proper idle settings.
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Exactly what speed? Is it once per tire revolution? Or several times per tire revolution?
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It's in the latch mechanism and can be disabled by partially disassembling the latch to remove the kick lever that pops the lock back open. It's more of a PITA than you might think to get the latch out.
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Dynamic compression is different than static compression. Static compression is what you'll measure when cranking the engine during a typical compression test. Dynamic compression is measure while the engine is running. Testing dynamic compression can show you if the compression in one cylinder is dropping at higher RPM due to a valve problem. Typically high rpm misfires will be due to fuel starvation or incorrect valve timing, which can be caused by several things. I would pull the valve cover on that side and readjust the valve clearance. Loosen them up some, especially the exhaust valves. Another thing I notice is you say the fuel pressure sits at 52 psi all the time? Even at idle it's still 52 psi? That's indicative of a stuck or clogged fuel pressure regulator, or the vacuum hose to the regulator is broken or no longer attached to the regulator or intake manifold properly.
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I might suspect a short somewhere in the wire for the light. Possibly shorted to the second wire in that harness? Make sure both wires at the alt have 12v reaching the plug.
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Get the factory service manual for your car and check the wiring for the dimmer switch. The switch controls the ground side of the lights, so if pulling the stalk makes the high beams turn on the wiring up to the switch is probably Ok, but you could have a bad ground. If the switch really is the problem, you could install a relay for the high beam ground that gets triggered when the low beam ground is taken away.
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I was thinking this would be one of the type that sits up on the strut tower where the fuel lines run up before they go to the engine. If it just threads onto the rail maybe you can find a plug or a bolt with the same thread and screw that in place of the damper. If that engine sat for several years you may need to have the injectors cleaned to get the varnish out of them.
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They put a jack under the trans pan to lift up the trans when they were removing the engine, crushed the solenoid. Happens pretty often. Barely 1/8" between that flimsy Trans pan and the solenoids on the valve body. If the pan gets ANY weight put on it it can damage the solenoids.
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Hmm, alright. Best thing would be to tap into the fuse panel inside if you can. Run power from something that's switched rather than direct to the battery. That will prevent battery drains if something in that module fails.
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Is the harness aftermarket? The only reason for needing power from the battery would be if you have trailer brakes and you need a charge wire for the breakaway battery on the trailer. Normally I do not run those directly to the battery, I use power for a rear outlet or some other switched supply that is only hot when the key is on so the trailer battery doesn't drain the vehicle battery for various reasons.
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Sounds like clutch chatter. Fairly common with replacement clutches especially the chinese ones that a lot of parts stores sell. I use Exedy clutch kits and haven't had any issue with this from their kits. Usually around $150 online. You do have to check and make sure that both the clutch disc and pressure plate are Exedy brand. Some kits have an Exedy disc, with a Chinese pressure plate. Take it back to the shop that installed that clutch and have them install an Exedy clutch kit.
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You can make that surface finish look like glass if you wet sand and then polish it with a fine finishing compound. With 5 coats of clear on there you won't have to worry about sanding through. Wait about a week to be sure the clear is totally cured before using a buffer on it.
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Very clean looking car! Good buy! And those gigantic sunroofs are very fun!
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I'm not a fan of dayco belts. Lately it's getting hard to find timing kits that have good idlers in them. Gates kits on Amazon are around $100. A bit more with the water pump. NSK, Koyo, NTN are all Japanese and good quality. Gates tends to use these for the idlers and have seen GMB tensioners in them. For the one piece tensioners I would probably not even use the cheapie that comes in the kit. Get an Aisin or OE Subaru. I also use Aisin water pumps. Aisin is an OE supplier for many Japanese manufacturers.
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How old are the spark plugs?
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Yes, it's a US DOT law IIRC. Won't pass safety inspection in the states that require. Fog/driving lamps have to turn off when high beams are on.
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Wheel bearings growl and rumble, deep tone/vibration. Never heard one squeak. Remove the brake pads and apply brake pad grease or antisieze to the backing plates where they touch the caliper and piston. Also to the ends where they slide in the anti-rattle shims on the bracket.
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Then it's just the drum dragging on the shoes. Knock the dust out of the drum, wire brush and spray any loose dirt/dust out of the shoes and backing plate and put it back together.
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Probably coming from one of the lines where it runs across the back of the rack, or from a fitting where the lines attach to the spool housing. Most steering rack leaks end up running toward the center of the lower crossmember and drip down the center. Follow the lines and you'll find it.
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I've been using blue driver for a few years and like it, but it isn't as capable as Torque, and it costs around $100 now for the adapter, so I have a hard time recommending it. Haven't used any of the newer stuff though I will probably be trying some of them here pretty soon.
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It really does make a huge difference to have clean clear lenses. I normally finish mine with 3m trizact 3000 grit. Produces a very fine surface that can be polished by hand. Makes a very smooth finish if you use a buffer or polish wheel on a drill.
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If the rotor has been replaced before it's possible the inner lip of the park brake drum is rubbing against the backing plate. There will always be some drag from the brake drum against the shoes. It's unavoidable, and it's normal. But it shouldn't be a scraping or grinding sound. It should just make a mild hiss sound as the rotor spins.
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If you cut wires with the ECU still plugged in or unplugged the ECU with the battery still connected, its probably cooked. The knock sensor wire is shielded. Has a grey outer insulation and a braided sheild section outside of the insulation for the signal wire. Did you cut through the shielding, and did you solder the shielding to the signal wire when you tried to repair it? The shielding is grounded and needs to be kept separate from the signal wire.
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Think of it like a shock absorber for the fuel line. Gas comes up under high pressure, and every time an injector opens that pressure drops a little then bounces back. Somehow they figure that eventually causes things to wear out, and it can create a clicking/rattling sound coming from the fuel lines or fuel rail. If you think thats the problem, remove it and run a straight section of high pressure injection hose as a temporary fix.
