Fairtax4me

95 ECU probably wont work. 95 ECU pinout differs from 96-98. The engine side harness is the same, but the ECU end is different for some reason. Still would like to see some vacuum test results. Coil packs (this style) don't usually cause misfire problems on just one cylinder. That would be spark plug, wire, fuel injector, something specific to that cylinder. Plug wires are usually checked with an ohmmeter. All should be about the same resistance. Not sure off the top of my head what the spec is, but if one is significantly higher than the rest it could be bad. What did you set your spark plug gaps at?

This is pretty much normal. If the ECU loses the MAF signal it doesn't know what to do and the engine stalls immediately. It doesn't necessarily mean there is a problem with the MAF. Valves seem a little tight IMO. Intake is probably OK, but the exhaust valves need to be a hair on the loose side because they wear faster. Have you hooked up a vacuum gauge to it? Any fluttering or jumping of the gauge (more than 1 or 2") at idle could indicate valve problems. Does the car have a MAP sensor? What is its value at idle? Other readings like ECT, throttle angle, fuel trims?

From what i understand, when the monitor finishes its diagnostic routine, if it doesn't set "Ready" that means there's a problem and you get a code instead.

This is a good point. I hadn't thought about that before, but I do recall something about the 25D being interference because of valve to VALVE interference. Could swear I saw a picture once of a 25D piston with dents in it from valve strikes though. Are the valves in a 22 head any closer together? smaller? Compared to a 25D head?

http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/65245/pdf/065245-11-72-0458832.pdf I knew I had seen this somewhere before but couldn't remember it exactly. Was having trouble getting all of the monitors to set in my 96 so I went googling and found the above link. Basically the I/M monitors check the working condition of all the emissions related equipment on the car. More info here at Actrons website: http://www.actron.com/faq_detail.php?pid=16152&id=20 1995 and 1996 MY Subarus are not required to set all (either 7 or 9 monitors I lost count already) monitors before testing because they all reset when the key is cycled. This was corrected in 1997 MY vehicles. There are only two or three monitors that do not set immediately. One being for the Evap system, another for the Catalyst efficiency. Catalyst efficiency is the one I've had trouble getting set, which is why I went searching for this. It's the last one that will confirm whether my "new" ECU is working as it should. So far so good. No EGR, evap or other codes and the Evap monitor has set which tells me the system should be working properly, at least as far as the ECU is concerned. Just figured I would post the above links in case anyone else is remotely interested.

I have a pair of "mouse furs" out of a 91 I think legacy in my 96. They bolt in perfect. If your 92 had the automatic belts you might want to drill the rivet out and remove the hook thing that the belt passes through. You will need to keep the buckles from your 95 and swap those into the 92 seats.

A bit more accurate depiction of the non-turbo EJ exhaust. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2138504&cc=1269873 I need one of those test pipes for my car.

They have email add. and phone number on their website. http://deltacam.com/

Ring and pinion swap is a lot more complicated than "take old parts out put new parts in". Much easier and faster to swap the rear diff unit to match ratio. If transmissions are the same otherwise put the new one in, put it in FWD mode and remove the rear section of the driveshaft. Find a rear diff from an outback to swap in later.

What year Forester did the trans come from? TCU uses the speed signal from the dash, without that the trans might not shift properly. If you pull TCU codes there is probably one there for VSS. IAC code could be due to the ECU thinking the car is sitting still when you're driving.

This could be due to the coolant temp sensor failing, but there could be other causes. If the thermostat is only opening partially you can get slow circulation of the coolant which would cause it to get too hot in the block. A clogged heater core can cause similar problems. What kind of shape is the coolant in? Is it clean? When was it last changed? Fluid level in the radiator and overflow? How old is the thermostat? Do you get good hot air with the heat on or is it just kinda luke-warm? Does the temp gauge in the dash ever go above halfway? Have a scanner or access to one that can read live sensor data?

95-96 ej22? What trans? Awd? I don't know that those hot air intake filters help much but a new filter will certainly work better than an old dirty one. You'd be better off from a power standpoint to put the stock airbox back and use a high flow drop in filter like Fram. Stay away from oiled filters as they can gunk up the MAF sensor element. Hypermiling I don't know much about, but going easy on the throttle and up shifting sooner will save you a little bit of gas. Simple things like plugs wires and fuel/air filters can make a difference in engine power. And dont foget about the pcv valve. 24 all city is not bad though.

Seafoam doesn't burn very well, so it impedes combustion of the fuel /air mixture. You pretty much have to hold the throttle at about 1500-2000 rpm to keep the engine running when feeding it into the intake or the engine will stall. And you will probably have to hold the throttle open after restarting for a little while as well. It will cause some rough and stumbling for several minutes after restarting. The trick is to take it for a short drive after you've got the initial plume of smoke out of it. That gets the air moving and pulls the rest of the unburned crud out of the intake. Brake booster hose doesn't allow air into the intake unless there is a problem with the booster or hose. It's a source of vacuum, not airflow, for the booster.

Never messed with anything other than the MAP sensor. Swapped some other sensors (knock, maf, ect) here and there while troubleshooting, but I never tied any real trouble back specifically to the MAP problem. (Or any other sensor for that matter.) I suspected some running issues might have been related but they would come and go at random. There was an issue that only popped up when it was really hot outside (like 90+). Have to wait til summer to find out if that one's gone. I know there are some oddball years out there that have either MAP or MAF. Mine has both. I did take the old ECU apart. Didn't find anything blown up or obviously broken.

If you get a real Valeo kit (not the eBay knockoffs) they can be good clutches. I got the cheapo Valeo kit on eBay (Valeo pressure plate and some knockoff clutch disc and bearings) and it lasted 10k miles and was shuddering so bad you could hardly drive the car. Replaced it with a Duralast kit (Valeo in a different box) from autozone and it has been fine. It actually had a Valeo disc and pressure plate, and japanese bearings. No signs of shuddering yet and I have about 15k on it now. Bought an Exedy kit for my 95 project but only have about 10 miles on it. Exedy is a good quality kit though.

I run no covers because the design of the older engines is non-interference. If the belt breaks there is no damage to the engine internally. After 1996 all Subaru engines are interference design, meaning if the timing belt breaks the valves can be struck by the pistons and be damaged. This usually means extensive work to repair. Some people take the risk but IMO you're better off leaving the covers in place on 97 and later model year engines. The cam sprockets are keyed. Only way to mix them up is to put them on the wrong side when reinstalling. That can be avoided by only removing one at a time. Or just remember that the one with the teeth on the back is for the cam sensor on the drivers side. A strap wrench or an old timing belt works pretty well to hold the sprockets while loosening the bolts. There are special tools but they can be pretty expensive. While you have the sprockets off, put new oil seals on the cams. Prevent a leak or two further down the road. Get seals from Subaru.

Old ECU showed a constant reading of 0"Hg from the MAP sensor. Kept getting DTC P0106. After many hours spent diagnosing determined the cause must be the ECU since all three sensors I have test fine on the bench, but when hooked up on the car all defaulted to something like 0.9-1.1v output signal that would not change with changes in vacuum. ECU thought the engine was pulling 30" of vacuum at all times. Details in my MAP sensor re-visit thread. New ECU hooked up, sensor output (at sensor) is within FSM spec. ECU reports 8.5"Hg at idle, unhook the vacuum hose on the MAP and get 29.2"Hg (atmospheric pressure). Subtract 29.2 from 8.5 means the ECU is seeing -20.7"Hg (vacuum) at idle, roughly within spec. Change in throttle position produces an immediate change in MAP reading on the scanner.

Grabbed 2 different Ecus from the junkyard. One out of a 96 Outback. 2.5 AT, EGR. Made it two days on that one and got three codes for AT diagnostic circuit, Evap incorrect purge flow, and EGR circuit. P1702, P0441, and P0403. Second ECU is out of a 97 L. 2.2 AT, engine gone, but assume it had EGR. Two days and no codes on this one yet, but it hasn't set the IM monitors yet. Once I get it to greenlight the monitors I'll be happy. Seems strange that the one out of the OB would set the AT diag code though. Other strangeness: Cold start it would rev to about 2000 rpm for 3 seconds, then it would quickly drop to 1000 rpm and would stay there seemingly indefinitely. It would idle down to 700 on occasion if the car sat still for long enough. When coming to a stop it would hold idle at about 1200, and come down to 1000 once stopped. The one out of the 97 seems to work properly. Get good readings from all sensors and idle sits steady at 700 rpm as it should. Even feels like a little bit of power is back. Fingers crossed it'll set the IM monitors and stay happy.

Have a set of 200 grind in the 96 and have been happy with them for the most part. They make a bit of noise but not so much that I care to pull the lifters out and add more shims. Made a big difference in the bottom end when I had them in my auto trans legacy wagon. Can't tell so much now they're paired up with a manual trans, but I'm sure I would notice a difference if I took them out. A recent thread showed some interesting duno results for a Frankenstein motor (25d block 22e heads) and I'm wondering which is the better cam for that setup? Also interested to see lift and duration specs for 200, 220, and other cam offerings for the EJ non-turbo engines, if possible.

I suppose we should keep in mind that the 220 cam is probably designed for a stock Ej22. The effect that cam profile has will almost certainly vary between a stock engine and a hybrid 22/25 Frankenstein. Now I'm curious what effects other cam profiles would have. Also curious to see results for a sock ej22 vs one with delta torque grind cams.

Head gaskets cause over heating because the extra pressure in the system pushes coolant out and the coolant level gets low. Coolant gets too low and it can't circulate properly, it stays in the engine and boils. Keep the coolant topped off (check it every morning) and it should be drivable for a while.

I'd like to hear how it does when it gets up to 85-100 degrees outside. If I had parts cars sitting around, I'd probably do the same thing.

Hell yeah that's awesome! Change the oil and do it again?

I thought the torque grind was supposed to increase bottom end torque but it appears that the opposite is true. Torque does increase slightly after about 2250, but the stock cam appears to deliver about 15 more ft-lbs at 1500 rpm. There is a nice horsepower increase on the top end though. I had to call Delta to ask for the core credit when I sent in my old cams. Any time I've emailed them their response seems a bit slow.

Gonna put the P0106 epic to bed. Finally got to the junkyard and picked up an ECU from a 97 Legacy L. First improvement: I get a MAP reading on the scanner! It seems low at 10" at idle, but its there! Second improvement: Made two stops on the way home and no CEL, no DTCs pending. Two ignition cycles is all it took before to trip the CEL. Power loss issue may be resolved, a few more drives will confirm but I won't be too disappointed if it isn't, as long as the CEL stays away. Fuel mileage has been kinds low lately, hoping that now the ECU has a proper input from the MAP it'll lean out a bit. Again here, not gonna be too disappointed if it doesn't. Kinda figure this thing needs an O2 sensor by now anyway. It's only been like 4 years? since this issue first popped up. I should organize some of my experiments throughout this story into a write-up.