Fairtax4me

Interesting results. Is the 220 grind recommended by Delta for the Frankenmotor? Also interested in how that compares to what a stock 2.5 would put down.

High compression and forced induction don't usually get used together because of the sheer amount of heat created by the combustion. It tends to melt things. If you can cool the incoming air enough you can avoid some of the damage. The biggest thing is keeping combustion temperature down which is usually done by enriching the fuel/air mixture. If the ECU can adjust the mixture enough it could be fine. How are outside air temps in your area?

That thinkin' stuff is dangerous. :-P You do have a point, and that's why I said its possible just the transfer bearings are damaged like GD said earlier in the thread. But with that much glitter floating around bearing damage can spread like cancer. If the only noise is related to road speed its the output shaft bearings, transfer bearings or gears, or final drive (ring and pinion). The mainshaft (input shaft on these) bearing will make noise relative only to engine speed.

Cables usually just wrap around the drive mechanism on the motor. The motor is powered by a circuit breaker similar to a power window, it stops running when the load trips the breaker. Thus the sunroof stops when it gets to the end of the track. I could be way of base though. Got pictures of this getup?

No kit needed. The mounting brackets bolt right to the sides of the head unit using the standard screw holes. Just use the right screws and it should work fine. Something you might consider if you haven't done it already, put the dash pocket in the top slot and the head unit under it so you can see the faceplate when the cup holders are being used.

Booster and master cylinder test: Start engine. With engine at idle measure vacuum at booster if you have a gauge and adapters to do so, if not move to next step. Press brake pedal down hard and release. Wait a few seconds, then stop engine. With engine off press brake pedal hard several times. The pedal stopping point should move up with each press. Also a slight whoosh sound should be heard as the pedal moves down. When brake pedal stops moving down press pedal hard and hold. The pedal should stay firm. (If it starts to sink the master cylinder is bad or there is a leak) Still holding pedal down hard, start the engine. The pedal should immediately drop approx. 1-2 inches as vacuum builds in the booster. The distance the pedal drops can vary depending on the vehicle, but should go more than 1" but not more than 2-2.5". If the pedal does not drop right away when started, the booster may be leaking or the supply vacuum to the booster may be inadequate or the line or check valve is clogged. Continue holding the pedal down hard, if the pedal sinks the master cylinder may be bad. Pump and hold the pedal several times then inspect under the car for any evidence of leaks.

Another thought just occurred to me. Did you try to jump start the car before finding the blown fuses?

Don't be too worried about longevity in the short term. These usually go about 30k miles making noise before you get real trouble from the mainshaft bearing.

I'd have to guess on rodent damage. Except if the constant power lines in the fender were shorted I would think the fuses would have blown again. Unless the wires need to be wiggled just right. Did it rain overnight?

Maybe a bit low but nothing I would worry about. Spec is 12psi at 700rpm hot. There is an issue with the back plate on the oil pump coming loose sometimes. The screws that hold it on loosen and it lets oil pressure bleed off back into the crankcase. Doesn't sound like that's an issue in your case, but its worth checking at your next timing belt change.

Is lash adjustable on the 6 cyl? Thought they had HLAs? Just edited my previous with engine info.

Collapsed upper hose usually means air. You have coolant escaping and air getting into the system from somewhere. As the system heats it pressurizes and pushes some coolant out into the overflow bottle, then as the system cools it draws vacuum and pulls coolant from the overflow back into the radiator. Problem is it can't create proper vacuum with air in the system, so the upper hose gets sucked flat. I'm thinking this has the symptoms of bad head gaskets, but try a new radiator cap first. The valve that opens to let coolant back in could be plugged up with some crud.

Have you torn the engine down to find out what kind of burn it is? Is it melted on the edge or does it look like someone took a cutting torch to it? Had one that basically had a hole cut out of it, showed it to an instructor at school who suggested bad gas lead to repeated detonation and caused the valve face to crack. Called it "thermal shock". Exhaust melted it from the center out so it looked like someone took a torch to it. Found the pics I took: I should add that this valve came out of an Ej22. Not a 6 banger. But it did have hydraulic lash adjusters. I don't suppose "thermal shock" cares what engine it happens in though. Also remembered the other term she used was Valve face guttering to describe the way it burned.

Rings in this case. . I kinda wonder if the rings are just stuck. Some MMO or Seafoam in the oil as a cleaner could free them up. Another member here had a similar problem a couple years back and Seafoam freed the rings. He got another couple years out of it before a spark plug shot out of the head. For $7 it's worth a shot to see if it helps. Pour in half a can drive 100 miles and change the oil, then repeat. Ash deposits as I said before usually indicate a small amount of oil/ coolant, or some other form of contaminant in the combustion chamber. Oil fouling would mean the plug is wet black with oil all over the tip.

Any 2.5 block will make it interference. A phase 1 2.2 block with sohc 2.5 heads MAY be non-interference,(depends on valve opening height) but there again you lose the benefits of a Frankenstein unless you want to run forced induction. If you want non-interference for reliability, just get a 96 or earlier 2.2. Worst case if valves hit you get to pull the heads and put new valves in.

:/ Well now. That is awfully sludgy looking. The sound of stuff on the drain magnet is not out of the ordinary, but the fluid condition is another story. I think we have a winner on the water contamination theory. Some kind of contamination of the fluid is the only way I can explain that much wear in both the trans and differential with such low miles. Besides the lack of chunks that fluid looks just as bad as the stuff I drained out of the trans in the 95 I bought last year. 225k miles and the mainshaft bearing had completely failed. I assume you still have all 5 gears so you have some time yet. Eventually it will start popping out of 4th and/or 5th gear. Assuming the mainshaft bearing I the problem. Still possible the transfer shaft bearings are damaged, actually I would bet most of the bearings are worn excessively or damaged in some way. Time for a tear down for inspection. I'm interested to see what kind of shape the internals of that trans and diff are in.

Do a wet test on number 4 and see if the number comes up any. If it comes up the rings are worn. Hard to imagine the rings being that worn and not using a LOT of oil between changes. Cam timing is ruled out because that would affect both cylinders on that bank. With only one cylinder affected the problem is limited to that cylinder. A burned exhaust valve seems likely.

Lots of cutting to make 7x10 speakers fit, and I think the lower mount for the window track is in the way. To mount 6.5" you'll probably want the factory plastic speaker cups and mounting hardware. Not all aftermarket speakers come with adapters for mounting. The factory cups bring the speakers out 1/4" or so and give some extra clearance between the speaker and window glass and track. The door panels can be trimmed easily (there is a pattern on the back of the panel) and factory grilles fitted, or just mount grilles included with the speakers. The hardest part will be getting wires run through the rubber looms that go into the doors. That is, if the wires aren't there already. If they are then lucky you.

Where are you grounding the meter? Did you make sure the ground wire connection to the new socket is good? Been a while since I had one of these apart but I do remember there being two plugs that fit the ground terminal, but only one is connected to body ground.

If the input shaft double roller bearing is bad there are a few key indicators one of which I stated earlier. The gear oil on the dipstick will appear grey if wiped on a white napkin or cloth. There will be large amounts of grey glitter in the oil when drained, probably not as much as your differential, but it will be grey. This bearing is spinning whenever the clutch is engaged, so if sitting still wih the engine idling you should be able to hear noise from the transmission. Depressing the clutch pedal will cause the noise to go away completely, and it will return when the pedal is released. Noise will coinside directly wih engine speed, will not be road speed dependent, and does not typically change pitch with throttle. Mainshaft bearing failure typically does not happen until 150-175k miles. If fluid was severely neglected it could be sooner but at only 60k, mainshaft bearing failure seems a bit unlikely. I've dealt with several bad main shaft bearings in various stages of failure. None have ever sounded like that. Rear diff failure seems unlikely too, but we know the oil that came out of there was practically sludge. Check transmission fluid condition and check for noise with clutch position before condemning the trans. Still sounds more like rear diff to me. Transfer shaft/center diff support bearing possible, but trans fluid condition will tell more.

Effit-all, since its hygroscopic, has a tendency to separate a bit when it gets old. If you never let the tank get below 1/4 you get the leftover old stuff at the bottom that just builds up over time. A bottle or two of Heet fuel system de-icer will collect the water and allow it to mix with the fuel to be burned off. Try running the tank lower between fill-ups to keep water content down. If your car is like mine you still have close to 5 gallons in the tank when the gauge gets to the E. I try to get down to about 3 gallons, sometimes less, to help pull any of the bottom dwelling contaminants out before getting new gas. Also helps to run a bottle of fuel system cleaner every few thousand miles.

XV manual has 4.44 to make up for the tire size and weight, and to keep it capable in light offroad use. If the XV manual came with a 3.7 final it would be gutless in first gear which could mean having to ride the clutch excessively to move uphill or climb even small obstacles, which is where final gearing makes a big difference. If I did the math right, a 4.44 ratio is 20% shorter than the 3.7. Multiply them by the typical first gear ratio about 3.5:1. With the 3.7 you get a final output of 12.95 engine revolutions to 1 wheel revolution. With the 4.44 you'll have 15.54:1. That's a pretty big difference in the amount of torque the engine puts to the wheels. Torque is what gets the car moving, the more you can multiply that torque output at the wheel, the more capable the car is offroad.

Most probably need SSM3. What kind of goodies are there to change?

You changed the bearing for that?!? Would have lasted another 100k easy. :-p Glad that took care of it. Plenty of cars use double roller bearings, but I think some just don't get the right weight balance between the halves. Lots of cars have no trouble with the same design. Maybe the Subaru OE bearings are just cheap?

The small wire at the starter should have 12v with key START. Having voltage there with key ON makes no sense, unless maybe you tested wrong. There should not be voltage in that circuit unless the key is in start position. Where did you connect the test light probes for the test?