Fairtax4me

Yeah that one should have the black plunger type with the round housing. Those have some issues and you can take them apart to clean but I think you might have a wire issue to the sensor or the sensor is damaged internally. Those are all low input codes which could mean there isn't enough voltage getting to the sensor, or there is unwanted resistance between the ECU and sensor. If you got a P1507 as well check the wiring to the neutral position switch, and make sure the switch isn't sticking when you shift in/out of neutral.

If the struts are leaking they are not controlling the rebound of the suspension and wheels properly. Replace both of those and inspect the sway bar links and lateral and trailing arm bushings.

Could be a bad intake gasket or fuel injector o-ring if the airbox isn't the problem. Might try cleaning the IAC valve, or replace it with the one from the old engine.

It does. The same principle still applies, but I'm not sure of specifics.

Engine load has more effect on fuel consumption than RPM. Giving more throttle to maintain constant speed going up hill has nearly the same effect as accelerating quickly on flat ground. Even if the engine speed does not increase, the load on the engine does, so it has to use more fuel to provide the power necessary to climb the hill. While the engine does operate more efficiently at highway mid range rpm, at some point wind resistance becomes a major factor. Very similar to climbing the hill, as the vehicle speed increases more wind pushes against the car, and this turns into extra load on the engine to keep pushing through the wind. While the engine may be at its most fuel efficient operating speed at 3000 rpm, at 65mph the wind resistance causes the engine to have to work harder to maintain that speed. Bring vehicle speed down to around 55 mph, engine speed is closer to 2500 rpm, but the load on the engine is reduced because there is less wind resistance. Having driven significant distance in both situations, I can say with absolute certainty that you will get better fuel mileage at 55 mph than will will at 65-70 mph, at least with a manual transmission vehicle. My car will do over 30mpg on my daily commute to school if I drive the 55mph road, rather than taking the interstate at 70mph, where I get only about 26mpg.

Per FSM: 156 - 185

Pretty much all High mileage/long life coolant is some form of OAT mixture. The difference between them is basically silicates and phosphates. Does it have one or the other, both, or none. There are other minor additives but those are what determine which coolants you can/should use in a particular car for proper corrosion protection. Color is hardly an indicator, but I kinda wonder if the "new" Subaru stuff is the same as what Mazda has been using for the past 5 years or so.

And this should fit pretty much any dual-port Non-turbo EJ? Does it fit around the stock oil cooler that goes where the oil filter is?

Don't care what it is, it looks awful. And I feel like I need ear plugs to look at the interior! But I suppose the looks aren't the point... Despite its awfulness, points for creativity awarded.

I had some extra $,$$$ expenses pop up (yeah, four digit expenses) so the repairs on the car went completely out the window. Sometime after Christmas is the new financial outlook... If I get the job I'm after. Don't need Saab stories (pun intended) in your thread so back on topic. :slobber: What kinda prices do you have in mind?

Need one of those for my other car. Need more than that actually, half the exhaust system looks like Swiss cheese. :-p

Duct tape to tree, drive away. Done! :-p The bumper assembly has to come off as one whole peice, you'll find the bolts that secure it to the frame in the floor of the trunk/cargo area. Then there are a handful of screws that attach the sides to the bottom of the quarter panel. Once removed the clips can be removed to take the actual cover off.

If its coming from the water pump side it could be a failed water pump gasket, or the thermostat housing is warped. On the other side I would suspect the upper radiator hose.

Basically anything out of the ordinary. Are the O2 voltages within spec? (The front sensor, Bank 1 sensor 1, is the one that controls fuel/air mixture). Fuel trims should be somewhere around 10% to -10%. (The reading will be positive or negative depending on if the ecu is adjusting towards rich or lean A/F ratio. Beyond 10% can mean the sensor is bad. Are any other sensor readings out of spec? Coolant temp, MAP/baro pressure/vacuum, MAF flow rate, that sort of thing.

You got the wizard on your team. Let us know what you guys find out.

Do you have a scanner that can read live data, or display freeze frame data?

Door switch: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_1/electronic/switch_instrumentpanel/illustration_2/ No part number listed though.

For a small external leak I would definitely try the Subaru conditioner. It's not the thick chunky stuff like you see in the clear bottles on the shelf. One thing I would do though, is wait until the engine is warm and the thermostat is open to add it to the system. With a cold engine the conditioner wont flow through the engine for several minutes until the thermostat opens. If you're concerned with the heater core possibly becoming plugged, bypass the core temporarily before adding the conditioner.

Actually it's not visible on these. There is a notched shaft that sticks up that engages the tooth on the sensor. You have to remove the sensor, and either use a screw driver to try to spin the shaft in the transmission, or make a not of its position, then spin one of the front wheels and check to see if the shaft position changes. Don't try to force the shaft to spin with a screwdriver. It should be very easy if the gear is broken or stripped. If it doesn't turn at all the gear is fine and forcing it could damage it.

Iac issue could be because the ECU thinks the car is sitting still. Before replacing the VSS check to make sure the drive gear inside the transmission isn't broken. Also make sure it's not just unplugged.

Could be quite a few things mechanical in nature but the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder, not one of them. You need to check the transmission oil level. It's the dipstick on the passenger side of the transmission. Has a yellow handle, but might be covered in dirt and hard to see. No engagement in any gear could be clutch related, but I would bet one of the bolts has fallen out of the shift linkage, or the stay rod bushing has fallen apart. Pretty simple to check, just crawl under and take a look at the shift linkage where it meets the transmission. If you can move any of it up/down by hand or see any loose bolts, one specifically sticking out towards the driveshaft. Edit: not to make it seem as if the master cylinder fluid level isn't important. If there is a leak that's a problem, but this will not cause problems moving the shifter in or out of gear when the engine is off.

Could be a bad o2 sensor. Might try cleaning the MAF sensor if it has it. PCV valves are known to cause strange issues as well so if that hasn't been replaced it should be. Make sure all vacuum hoses are in good shape and the breather and PCV hoses are clear of obstruction and connected properly. One other option is the timing belt. If it has jumped one tooth the car may still run fine cold but have issues when warm.

I can't imagine Subaru would not recommend their own brand of coolant for their vehicles. When in doubt, use the coolant that is listed in the owners manual.

You're muh better off getting the Subaru Blue/Green stuff. Newer engines are not as forgiving and the plain green glycol stuff can cause corrosion problems that will cost you in the long run. Mix the Subaru stuff wih distilled water for the best protection against corrosion and mineral deposition.

And they'll be aftermarket crap. It's 100 times easier to replace boots with the axles off the car, and only takes a few extra minutes to get them out. I don't understand leaving them in the car unless it is physically impossible to remove them (rusted/seized to the hub).