Fairtax4me

Probably poor connection or frayed wire in the door cord. The panel is easy to remove. A small cover behind the release handle with a philips head screw behind it, a cover about the size of a quarter under the door pull handle with a large philips head behind it. Remove the gusset cover on the upper front corner (the black triangle), or tweeter cover and tweeter. The flat gusset cover you may need to pry off with a flat screwdriver. The tweeter cover should just pop off with your fingers. Then pull the edges of the panel sharply to pop the clips loose all the way around the panel (there are about 8 - 10). The middle one in the front is a press-through design and will probably go flying so cover it with your free hand to catch it. Grab the rear edge and pull up and out until the tabs clear the top of the inner door skin, now rotate the rear edge down and front edge up slightly while pulling out to dislodge the panel from the release handle. Takes less than a minute once you've done it a few times.

Dun dun dunnnnnnnnn! Well now don't we feel sheepish if that's all it turns out to be?

I guess that''s not so bad then. Doesn't seem like a bad price in the US market. 30k, kM is decent low mileage for a 3 year old car. Used Soobs here with similar age/mileage sell for nearly as much as brand new ones.

$9,690,000?!?! What kind of currency are they using?!

Not unless the performance crowd got ahold of a 6 banger. My thinking as well. The bolt on bits are just extra weight. A little RTV behind the crank bolt washer would solve the whole problem. Back to the original question, since we kinda skipped over it... Holding the crank still I would guess can be done in a similar way to the 4 cyl engines. Look for a hole in the side of the bellhousing to stick a large screwdriver. Otherwise, a prybar in the inspection cover should do it. Or the handy-mans secret weapon, Duct tape.

The seal rides against the inner hub of the harmonic balancer. The inner hub is a polished smooth surface just like the crankshaft journal.

Are we to assume this is for some devious nature? :-p Can't tell exactly by wire diagrams but it appears there is a timer that can be bypassed. A little 3 way switch wired across the power and output leads could make it so you can have the timer or not. Finding it could be the trick. I have wire diagrams for 98 but not for 99. This says the timer module (they refer to as "Clock") is in the headliner next to the overhead interior light.

As I understand it, the front crankshaft oil seal rides directly on the pulley. Similar to most american V engine designs. This leaves the rear section of the pulley open which can apparently allow oil through the center. The cover is held to the front of the pulley with 4 bolts. Front crank seal:

Yes entirely different. The H6 pulley seal is between the inner pulley section and the timing chain cover. There is also a cover on the front of the pulley that has an O ring behind it. Apparently oil leaks past the threads of the bolt and the cover is there to hold it in the pulley.

Free's the perfect price for an engine to tear apart.

It does show it. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_46/engine_electronic/relay_and_sensor_engine/ Also still not sure about the EGR, unless we assume that if a car had an automatic transmission that it MUST then have EGR. I know some auto Ej22s in that era do have EGR, but do ALL of them have it? My car is non-EGR, so it makes sense that the non-EGR 96 Outback MT ECU could be the same. To thicken the plot a bit more... one of the other part numbers listed (22611AD55A) says it was used as far back as march 94 (which would make it an early 95 MY vehicle). That makes no sense if according to wire diagrams the pinout is different on 95 MY ECU. But, it looks promising that I can use an ECU from a 96 - 98 Ej22 car. Certainly widens the list of possible donors.

Finally found mine listed on opposedforces website. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/22611AC910/ Depending on model I can get one from certain 2.2 engine cars made between January 1996, and May 1998. Automagic or manual trans does not appear to matter. The only real difference I can see is that it doesn't come from a 2.5, and that it has the same evap system, which is a consideration I had not thought of before, but makes sense.

Wow! That's a chunk of change! There's a place about 30 minutes drive my me that will recondition and build a small block pushrod V8 for about that. Clean everything, valve job on the heads, true the main & cam bores, bore and hone, size and fit the rings and all the bearings. You drop off a mess of parts and pick up an assembled short block and rebuilt heads. Of course parts are much cheaper, a set of standard oversize pistons is only about $50, New rods are about the same. If the crank can't be re-sized or is warped it's only about $100 for a new crank. He charges about $75 for a gasket kit with new head bolts. Around $1100 bucks you have an entirely rebuilt engine ready to bolt together. I guess if it costs that much out there just to have the block reconditioned you're better off just finding a good used replacement.

Updated MLS style head gaskets, deck the block and mill the heads for perfectly flat sealing surfaces. Run Subaru anti-corrosive coolant with the conditioner. Properly cleaned and properly torqued with MLS gaskets it should have 200k or more miles with no trouble. This assumes proper cooling system maintenance is done to avoid overheat situations.

The year range is pretty thin for the phase 2 engines but yes, a 2000 or newer ej22 should plug and play. 99 and older may work if you swap cam and crank sprockets, but I'm not certain of that. I don't know what wiring differences there may be. The usual way to make a 2.2 work is to swap intake manifolds, but I think the phase two intake ports are different.

Those areas usually rust from the back. When you start grinding they usually end up as a big hole. The front fenders need to be replaced or have new sheet metal welded on. Replacement is probably the easiest route. I don't know if patch panels for that area are available. There are much more common rust points on these cars that you can't get patch panels for. That bottom section is what holds the lower leg of the fender. You can try cutting out the rusted area but there will probably not be much metal left to hold the bottom of the fender on the car. The rear dog-leg can be cut out and filled with fiberglass or bondo. Those may turn out to be OK after you grind the surface rust off, but be prepared to cut out a fairly large section, you may find a lot more rust than what you see.

To just do the short block, bearings, rings, have the crank machined, and have the heads resurfaced, probably 400 - 600 range or higher depending on where you get your parts, and what needs to be reconditioned. I would tear it down to bare block halves and check out the crank first before ordering or buying any parts. Take the crank and rods to the machine shop to have them checked. Rods that get knocked around too much can end up with the big end stretched into an egg shape which means they need to be machined or replaced if stretched far enough. A 2.2 swap is a viable option if you can't afford to have the car down for a long period of time. You can yank to the 2.5 out saturday and have the 2.2 back in and ready sunday and drive to work monday. This is also a good option if the 2.5 engine is damaged beyond repair. A rebuild will be at least a week (again depending on what needs to be done at the machine shop, and how long their turn-around is) possibly longer if you haven't done one before. Tools are also a factor. You might want a ring compressor. I've installed pistons without a compressor before. It's much easier with one, but using a ring compressor comes with it's own risks. A cheap compressor could leave you with broken rings, scored pistons, or cylinder wall damage. Some machine shops will build the bottom end for you for much cheaper than a regular shop would, so you might ask about that if you don't have some of the tools needed for a rebuild. There are a few good videos on Youtube for how to get the block apart. You might want to check those out.

The only things that would keep me form rebuilding are a hole in the block, or a badly scored cylinder wall because of something like a loose wrist pin or broken valve. If the crankshaft is a little scored, you can have it reground and polished and install undersized bearings. Assuming your machinist doesn't want to charge you more than a good crankshaft is worth.

Clicking could be the starter interlock relay, or could have been the solenoid on the starter. I would not think either of these relate to the previous issues. The contacts in the starter solenoid are a common weak point and deteriorate heavily with use. They are easily repairable if you can find a supplier for the contacts. Relays can go bad on occasion. There could also be a wiring problem such as a poor ground connection.

It looks like the piston was hitting the bottom of the bore? The piston is damaged, the block is damaged. It's toast. Drop a 2.2 in it and save yourself some trouble.

Depends on what kind of frankie you want to build. Usually the high compression version Frankie is a 25D (DoHC 2.5) block with 2.2 roller rocker single cam heads.

Stabilizer bar = sway bar. Or more accurately, anti-sway or anti-roll bar. Same part different name. Links, end links, joints, end rods, all the same idea. I don't know if you can buy just the bushings separate from the links (havent ever looked), but the plastic does deteriorate with age and can break, so its usually better to just replace the link.

The trim on the console only takes a minute to pull up and you can check to see if the manual unlock has been modified. Lift the center arm rest lid, remove two screws. Pull the rear section cover off, then pull the front section cover off. You'll want the gear selector in something like D or 3. Turn the cover 90 degrees and it will slip right over the shift handle.

That looks like a really good deal. I'll have to bookmark that one. Might pick one up some day when I have $$ again.

Appears I have: Ebay has one for $110. Looks like it was in a fire, then drowned. http://www.ebay.com/itm/22611-AC910-ECM-ECU-COMPUTER-95-96-97-98-SUBARU-LEGACY-22611AC910-/261039360338?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc7288952&vxp=mtr I wouldn't pay that much for one anyway. My wallet is too vacant as it is, unless I can find one for like $20 I'll probably just let it ride for another 3 years. :-p The differences (im sure minor) between a 9M, and a 2N, and a 3C, and whatever else, still interests me. What I can't figure is, why so many? :-p