Fairtax4me

Usually this is because the park light switch on top of the steering column has a bad wire connection or the switch has failed. There is a second set of contacts in the switch that provide power to the parking lights even when the switch is off, and those can Occasionally go bad. The easy fix is the cut the wires going to the switch (since that switch is kinda useless here in the US) and connect the correct two wires together. I don't remember the wire colors off-hand but IIRC there are only there wires. One of them will have 12v going to it all the time. One of them will make the lights stay on. The other will turn on the lights only if the key is on and the headlamp switch is on.

None of the magic bottle stuff will fix these. Its likely the heads will need to be resurfaced, but you won't know for sure until they're off. Fel-pro makes the original head gaskets for that engine. They even have the Fuji heavy industries check logo on them. I buy them for about $25 a piece from advance auto with a discount code. The other gaskets can be pretty much any brand, but I will say that OE Subaru exhaust manifold gaskets tend to last longer than aftermarket. I have a Haynes manual that I don't really use but it does pretty well cover the process for R&R the heads on the 2.2. The torque sequence for the head bolts is correct in the Haynes manual. The factory service manual makes it seem more complicated since its layout is less user friendly.

The worst of the rust is right there. Other than the exhaust being rusty the rest of the car is actually pretty clean. There is one small spot starting to form above the wheel arch on the drivers side. Rear crossmember and rear suspension are in good shape. Would not have paid for this car if it was rusted out underneath. Gary I'm hoping they just used Cheapo gaskets and didn't drive the car that much after it started having problems. They didn't say it had overheated, they said it started running hotter than normal. But it was more than a half gallon low on antifreeze when I test drove it, so I'm willing to bet it was overheating and they just didn't know it because the guage wasn't showing that.

It's a common problem on the 99s. Bad solder joint on the PCB in the speedometer. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/22846-99-outback-speedo-problem-fix-speedo-removal.html#/topics/22846?_k=c7fu0s

Here's something you don't want to find in your oil. Antifreeze! About a quart and a half of it. It hasn't been churned into chocolate milk just yet. This car has probably the worst head gasket I've seen yet on a Subaru. It is literally blowing antifreeze out of the tail pipe. Hard to see here but antifreeze runs out of that back corner almost continuously. The other side is leaking oil. Bought this 01 Legacy with 138k on it for $1000 knowing it needed head gaskets or possibly an engine. They were replaced at some point before, by the POs "mechanic" neighbor, because they were seeping oil externally. Less than a month later it started overheating. They tried all the usual things, thermostat, radiator flush, replace the radiator, another thermostat. Finally they stopped driving it and put it up for sale. Going to pull the engine either this weekend or early next week. Gonna pull the oil pan and try a little trickery to see if I get the rod bearing caps off without having to split the block.

There are a few ways to do this depending on how the relay is being used. You can wire the coil side of the relay in parallel with the high beam bulb, then the relay always works only with the high beams on. The load side of the relay will need its own power supply wire (from battery or fuse panel). If you want/need to be able to switch the relay off, even if the high beams are on, then you'll run a separate power wire to the coil from a switch, and the relay coil will be grounded by the high beam ground wire at the high beam switch. Or, you can run a power supply wire to the relay, splice that to supply both the coil and the load sides of the relay. Then have the coil ground run to a switch, and then from the switch to the high beam ground wire at the high beam switch.

Yeah you won't find the right ones in stainless at a hardware store. It's a self tapping thread like #10 screw, but with a wide head. Try Amazon?

A relay and the key cylinder switch. Compare the wire diagrams of the two years and it shouldn't be that hard to get it working.

As far as I know they did away with that feature after 96. Many vehicles had some similar feature where unlocking one door would unlock all of them, but it was done away with over security concerns.

Welcome to the forum! That does look to be "normal" to me. It may be there for a reason, such as to allow water to drain. I think seeing that every time I open the door would bother me though, as it does look incomplete. That's the kind of thing I would fill in with body seam sealer and use touch up paint to cover. But I have seam sealer already from other projects. Clear silicone would be a less expensive option.

I run both of my old 2.2s without them. No chance of bent valves on the pre-96 2.2. But I also keep a full timing kit of used timing pulleys and an old belt in the trunk. Takes me less than 45 minutes to do a timing belt and pulley change. On an interference motor I would keep the covers on.

Purple wire is for the illumination bulb in the switch, has nothing to do with the fog lamps getting power. If the fog lights were dealer installed you should be able to follow the wires from the fog light switch to the fog light relay and test for power at the relay. If they were factory installed the relay should be in the fuse panel and you can try swapping it with another relay if there is a similar one in another spot. Often dealer installed lights are not tapped into the fog light fuse in the panel, they will just tap into wherever is closest for power like the cig lighter socket fuse or rear power outlet fuse, so be sure to check ALL of the fuses, not just the one for the fog lights.

You'll want to post this on the old gen section where the EA engine guys can give you better advice. Shouldn't be that hard to figure this out. There are only a few components that control spark, but I don't know enough details about that engine to be of much help.

That's the reference voltage that the ECU supplies to the sensor. That voltage will be there even with the sensor unplugged. More than likely the sensor is dead and needs to be replaced. If the sensor has been replaced already there may be a break in the wire between the sensor and ECU, or a poor connection in one of the wire harness connectors going to the sensor.

Should be a small ball-valve in the lifter and that's where the oil is fed into the lifter. Press the valve open with a small pick and try to depress the plunger of the lifter and see if oil comes out of the valve. The lifter should squeeze fairly easily. If it's stuck you can try soaking it in kerosene overnight and try to get it freed up. It may need to be replaced, but those lifters are somewhat expensive IIRC, so I would try cleaning it first.

P2138 looks like a code for the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor. First thing I would do is check the commanded values and actual values of the APP sensor in the scanner data. There should be two sensors and IIRC the voltages should be inverse. Compare the no-throttle position voltage to the wide- open position for each. If the values look ok or are more than about .5v apart I would check the connector on the pedal sensor for any dirt or corrosion. Put some di-electric grease in there if it's dry. If the signals are too far apart the ECU sets the code for this sensor. An intermittent problem will be the hardest to replicate, so you probably won't know if it actually needs a new pedal assembly or not until it either happens again or there is something obviously wrong with the wiring or connector. Also check the charging system and battery connections. Make sure both cable terminals are clean and tight. Make sure the main lead to the alternator is tight and clean. Make sure the pins in the small plug on the alternator are clean. Put some di-electric grease there if they're dry.

Transmission oil should not be black. That should be a clear golden color. That needs to be changed asap and see if the problem persists afterward.

You're sure the noise is from the passenger side? Only other thing I can think would be bad main bearings or worn cam journals in the head causing the pressure to build slower the further away from the pump it gets, or allowing oil to bleed out of the pressure galleys when the engine is off. To some extent that's going to happen anyway, but worn bearings will exacerbate the problem. You could try an engine oil analysis and see if they find high amounts of wear metals in the oil. Otherwise, either swap the engine for POM, or just deal with it and ride it til it blows up... If it blows up.

For as little as it takes to reseal the separator while you're in there, just go ahead and do it. Also be sure to reseal the access hole cover. That's Probably what's leaking and not the rear main. Yes to the spring clips on the TOB. I would also replace the release fork if it's 300k miles old. They have a tendency to crack at the pivot.

Per the thought about the amount of grease in the cv joint, the boot should not be completely full of grease. Too much grease inside the boot prevents it from flexing properly and can cause damage to the boot. The inner cv joints are designed to be able to compress and extend as the suspension moves up and down, and if the boot is full the compression will pop the boot and push the grease out. Too much grease can also collect in a large lump on one side of the boot and cause it to fling apart when at highway speed due to imbalance. The packets of grease supplied with cv boot kits are more than enough grease for a cv joint, and sometimes are actually too much.

That's a vertical core radiator, with the fill neck and upper hose outlet on the same end tank, which is one of the updated designs that helps prevent airlock when filling the system with coolant. Shouldn't have any trouble getting the air out with that radiator design due to the raised portion between the hose and filler neck, even if you had just filled through the radiator and hadn't filled through the upper hose. The thermostat could have been bound as you suggested, and caused the overheating you had previously.

If that hose has been replaced before, then it likely is too long on the engine end. Aftermarket hoses almost always have to be trimmed to fit properly. One reason I often spend the extra $5-10 on genuine OE hoses from the dealer. Try loosening the clamp slightly on the radiator end and twist that end slightly clockwise and see if it pulls away from the fans. You could also loosen the clamp at the engine end and try pushing the hose further down onto the outlet pipe. The hose is probably only one piece. It looks Like that is a protective sleeve around that section to prevent chafing of the hose against the line from the steering pump.

There's a way to read ABS codes by grounding a terminal on the small black diagnostic plug under the dash. I can't ever remember which terminal it is exactly, but it's been posted before here. Turn the key On and it blinks the codes. More often than not its going to be a wheel speed sensor problem. Either the tip of the sensor has a bunch of metal filings stuck on it, or possibly the sensor has been crushed to death by rust building up around it. A broken or heavily rusted tone ring on the axle can also throw off the sensor reading. That should be checked before replacing the sensor.

I did this a few times and I don't remember if there are two wires or three. But either way, two of the wires get 12v and if there's a third it goes to ground. IIRC the case is grounded to the chassis so you just ground the case of the unit and put 12v to both wires.

Yeah if that harness isn't designed for a switch ground system it won't work right. You'll probably just need to run a separate power wire for the HID ballast. The high beam can be connected right to the stock wiring, but if you're doing wire work already I would suggest a relay and separate power wire straight from the battery for the high beams as well. Higher constant voltage at the bulb will give you better light output. The relay can be right at the headlamp and just use the common supply and high beam ground wires in the factory harness to trigger the relay on.