Fairtax4me

$670?!?! Where the hell are they getting parts from? That's just plain robbery. Subaru List price is $132 each. $270 for 2 injectors at full OE retail price. They don't need 5 labor hours to replace 2 injectors. And they broke an injector and are now saying it was already cracked?! Injectors break when you pull on the connector with a pair of pliers because you don't know how to pop them out of the rail without using brute force. These are not that difficult to remove. Somebody doesn't know what they're doing and is trying to cover their own tracks. Get your car away from there. Take it to another place for a second opinion. I wouldn't give them a dime.

The black wired switches with brown plugs: Neutral position switch for Manual transmission. 32008AA071. Fits Legacy, Impreza, and Forester manual transmissions. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/32008AA071/ Lotta goodies there.

This is my understanding as well. I have tried to find some sort of info that this is true for the EGR as well but have no luck when searching through various wire diagrams and ECU I/O diagrams. The MT/AT identifier is clearly labeled on I/O charts, at least for the earlier models. Maybe 96 and 97 are the same. I was thinking 97-98 were same. I do know that 95 and 96 are different. On 96 pin 29 is one of the crank sensor signal wires, on 95 pin 29 is for the ECT sensor signal. That ain't gonna work too good.

Now my search is on for an ECU. I notice there appear to be quite a few number/letter codes (2N, 5P, 3Q, etc.) for the ECU's. I know the pinouts are different between years around 96, so I need a 96 ECU, but the big question is... Is there any way to decipher the 2 digit codes to know exactly what year car the ECU came out of, and is it EGR or non-EGR? Or some other random difference that I may not know about? I didn't note the number on mine when I had the cover off earlier, but will get it at some point this week, and will probably post a want ad for it here since I don't exactly trust eBay for something like this.

I had a misfire that baffled me for days. Swapped everything I could think of. It was fine when cold but had problems once warm. Above about 3.5k - 4k rpm it was fine. Below that it would misfire randomly and I had codes for all 4 cylinders at one point or another. Timing belt was off a tooth. :-p Front O2 sensor can cause problems once the engine is warm. Those can usually be checked by unplugging the sensor to see how well the engine runs without it. Problem gone? probably means you need a new front O2 sensor. Knock sensor is another favorite to cause misfire problems. It's worth inspecting for corrosion on the base and cracks in the housing even if you don't replace it. New knock sensors are only about $20 on Ebay.

Update time! Basically I left this alone until just a few days ago when we had time to play around with some stuff in Electrical class. So I grabbed my two spare MAP sensors and put them on the test trainer in class. 5v and ground hooked up, I got 3.8v from both sensors on the signal pin with no vacuum. Hooked up a vacuum pump and at 19" I got 1.6 v from both sensors. Finally found some info in the FSM about the voltage to expect from the sensor and this falls not exactly in spec but close enough for me. Put a meter the one in the car and tested 5v on pin 3, no back voltage on ground (good ground), and 1.2v on signal pin w/no vacuum. Hooked up vacuum pump got 1.2v. Now is where this gets interesting... Tested the same sensor out of the car, 5v and ground hooked up... 3.8v on the signal pin. 1.6v at 19" Hg. Back to the car, pull the ECU connector off, recheck wires, continuity good, no shorts. Decide to pull the sockets out of the harness connector at the sensor. Hook up power and ground pins, but NOT the signal pin... Key on, 3.8v on the signal pin. Key off, plug in the signal pin, key on again, now have 1.2v signal. Pull the ECU connector off, pull the signal wire out, key on 3.8v at the sensor, 3.8v at the ECU end with the signal wire UNHOOKED. ???????!!!1 Pretty much what I had assumed before but this finally confirmed it. The ECU is bad.

I quite like the poor design. It makes axle service easy, no risk of damage to seals during removal or installation, no need to drain gear oil. The pins are just there to keep the cv joint from slipping off, they don't handle any substantial load during driving.

You could try Lowes or Home Depot in the hardware drawers for the bolts, but you'll probably need to find a local Fastenal or Grainger to find that size metric hardware. Try to match the grade of the bolts on the car. Or just get grade 10.9. Or hit up the u-pick-n-pull-it.

The stub splines don't typically wear. The fit is very loose on the stubs so the axles can easily be removed without damaging the snap rings that hold the stubs in the differential. There is also clearance between the stub and differential carrier for oil to lubricate the stub bearing surface. A fair amount of play is quite normal, and does no harm to the axles or differential. I think you may just be a bit paranoid. If the axle isn't clicking or wobbling while driving, sit back and enjoy the ride while it lasts.

Misfiring on 2 cylinders doesn't help fuel economy. You SURE you got that timing right? :-p Plugs/wires good place to start. hopefully that clears it up. If not it may be time for some strong fuel system cleaner and/or an O2 sensor.

A. The head warp limit is .005" IIRC? Some heads can warp that much just by being removed. Subaru heads don't seem to warp very easily though. More than likely the sealing surface between the gasket and head/block has been compromised by corrosion. Lack of coolant changes tends to cause that. Plan on having at least .004" taken off if the heads are heavily corroded. This picture is huge so I'l just post the link: http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r236/CadiLLacPimPin97/Random%20photography/IMG_0851.jpg The dark grey areas around the water jackets. .004" off of that head and all of the corrosion still wasn't gone. The remaining bit was small enough to not be a threat though. Subaru Blue anti-corrosive coolant changed at the proper intervals can prevent that.

The Subaru cooling system has to be filled a certain way to avoid air pockets, which can cause similar problems, but it does sound like a failed head gasket. A combustion gas test (block test) may confirm this, but I'd probably just pull the engine and tear down for head gasket replacement. The old 2.2 is pretty forgiving and uses a thick graphite head gasket. They used to be only $20 each from Autozone. The Felpro gaskets have the FHI logo stamped in them. Same exact part you would get from a dealer.

Not impossible for a 2.2 to have bad head gaskets but pretty unlikely. What problems are you having that make you suspect the head gaskets?

The sway bar is only supported by the frame. When attached on only one side it is free to rotate as the suspension moves without any resistance. Disconnect both ends and you can move it easily by hand.

Shouldn't cause any wear at all. Sway bar has no effect on alignment. You may notice the car leaning a bit more in curves though. I'd just take the broken section off of the control arm so it doesn't get snagged on anything.

Do not use moly lubricants in a manual transmission. You will have synchro problems. It can be used in a VLSD rear diff. The viscous unit is sealed and uses its own silicone based fluid that is not mixed with the gear oil.

Yes, the OE crank pulley is heavy to help reduce vibration and help maintain crankshaft inertia. The H-6 may use a different pulley than the 4 cyl engines, which would explain the lack of stock. This is also not THE most common issue on the 4 cyl engines. Common enough yes, but not so common that every dealer will keep the part in stock at all times. Not to mention, since it primarily happens on older cars, most people either get a used pulley (junkyard $10)or parts store aftermarket for $50, rather than the dealers $200 list price.

Correct, the newer fuel sender assemblies have a reservoir on the side with a small metal cap that can deform after years of use. The cap is sealed by a small O ring, which once the cap is deformed, will push out of the side and allow fuel pressure to bleed out and fuel to run back into the tank. This can cause slow pressure build and low pressure. If pressure builds quickly to proper spec and holds this is likely not an issue. High pressure racing pump just means aftermarket to me. That could mean a pump off eBay with a clever marketing tactic. Details on this pump? Manufacturer, flow rate, etc.? Who installed it? You are taking pressure readings with an analog gauge plumbed between the fuel filter and fuel rail? What is the pressure at prime? Does it remain at or near that level when cranking? If no, what is the pressure reading during cranking? It is normal for the pump to operate for only a few seconds during the prime test then stop. The ECU controls the fuel pump relay and commands the relay off about 3 seconds after the key is turned to ON, but not to start. If the key is turned to start the pump continues to run, and will remain running once the ECU has a constant signal that the engine is running. (either from the tachometer or the crank or cam position sensors)

You could try some additives like Lucas TransFix or similar viscosity improver. It can't make it any worse.

Good to know. Thanks for posting the pinout.

You're getting rid of the 2.2 anyway so the crank doesn't matter. All you need is the sprocket that drives the timing belt. The only difference is the number of notches on the edge for the crank position sensor to read.

Maybe a leaky o-ring on the fuel pump assembly leaking fuel pressure back into the tank. Doubtful it's the MAF, but plugs can have a more adverse affect than you may think. Might want to pull them out and make sure they aren't fouled.

Not much difference between 5 and 0 weight oil except that 0 flows easier when cold. I ran 0w-20 in my Lincoln for 3 years and never heard so much as a tap from the engine, cold or hot. I wouldn't say it made any difference in fuel economy. If the "fuel saver" oils do anything, they warm up faster, which can lower emissions by some minuscule amount. Every little bit helps? Or just good marketing? Honda used to make a carbureted engine that got close to 100mpg and passed California emissions tests back in the late 60's -early 70's? with no catalytic converters. Your 89 crx weighed what, 1500 lbs? Had 75 hp? The modern equivalent has (due to consumer demand) an engine making nearly twice as much power and has to drag around another 1000 lbs of car, not including the modern overweight driver. Luckily for us the power robbing emissions systems of the late 70's to early 00's (EGR, restrictive catalytic converters, air pumps) are now being phased out in favor of variable valve timing and better fuel atomization (direct injection) allowing for lower emissions at the head, before even reaching the smaller, more efficient catalysts.

Harmonic balancer failure is common to any crankshaft pulley with a two peice design. The rubber layer in the middle is bound to deteriorate and fail at some point. Age is more of a factor than mileage so I would not be surprised to see this become a common issue for the H-6 like it is on the 4 bangers.

Phase 2 2.2 heads aren't dual port?