Fairtax4me

New knock sensors are less than $20 shipped on eBay.

A "blown" 2.2? Any details about that? I'd check the timing belt first (you never know). Cheapest way is just drop another 2.2 in it, if the engine is really damaged. Frankenmotor is about the best option for inexpensive power. All you would need is a 2.5 shortblock basically and re-use the heads from the 2.2, assuming they aren't damaged. A set of Delta reground cams goes a long way too.

Buckles have various forms and shapes. I ran into this on my car as well when switching to some old "mouse fur" seats from a 90 - 94 Legacy. The buckles are easy to swap though if the seats are out of the car. Just swap back to your original buckles. The drivers side has the wire harness for the seatbelt light. It's held on by some zip ties to the lower frame of the seat.

Some cars had no MAP, some cars had no MAF, but the info sill displays in the freeze frame data. The ECU still uses the info but it uses input from other sensors to calculate the reading rather than using a MAP or MAF sensor. I'm kind of wondering if the timing is out after reading through your history of the problem. But I'm thinking it could also be due to a compression issue and/or oil fouling from bad rings or even damaged valves. A dead misfire will foul plugs with oil/fuel residue in a short time though. But this part makes absolutely no sense. OL and CL operation depend on O2 sensor temperature, engine temperature, and throttle input. The primary factor in changing from OL to CL is when the 02 sensors get hot enough to start sending a signal to the ECU. Wide Open Throttle will switch the system back to OL. I don't see any mention of the knock sensor here. Has that ever been checked/replaced?

From what I've read these bearings almost never have play unless they are about to completely fall apart.

Strange for sure. I know the ECU will sometimes hold idle up a bit when coasting if you push the clutch in with trans in gear. But that should be only ~1500 - 2500 rpm. Try cleaning the IAC. The ECU may be bringing idle up some but a sticky IAC may be jumping to a larger opening than it's supposed to. Could also be a problem with the neutral position switch on the trans. If it gets stuck closed it tells the ECU the trans is in gear when it really isn't. Occasionally my car will hold engine speed up around 2000 rpm when coasting to a stop with clutch out, trans out of gear. When the speed gets to near 0 engine speed drops to normal idle. Never have figured out exactly why.

Sounds when turning usually mean wheel bearing.

Does it do this if you coast forward out of the driveway? Tried repeating this when the engine is warm? Are you coasting clutch in shifter in R (so the lights are on), or clutch out shifter in N?

The normal rotational movement of the arm (swinging up and down) does not matter. The bushings main job is to prevent movement of the pivot point. It allows rotational motion on one axis, but prevents motion on the other two. The stock bushing is designed to allow flex for rotational movement but is easily damaged if not installed with the suspension in its normally loaded position. The poly bushings can be installed with the suspension in pretty much any position, and allow full rotational movement without damaging the bushing.

polyurethane bushings are two peice, with a hollow spacer (steel sleeve) in the center that is free to move. They're done that way because its easier for the DIYer to install without needing a press or other special tools. Because of the design they have to be lubricated or the friction between the bushing and center sleeve will wear away the polyurethane.

What year and engine? It's possible the plug wires are not "clicked" correctly, which could cause an intermittent misfire. Mechanical issues are rarely intermittent. If engine/transmission mounts or axles were damaged any shaking/shuddering would be consistent.

"Transverse Link" is Subarus fancy term for Front Control Arm. No alignment adjustments are necessary when replacing the transverse link rear bushing, although Subaru specifies 1.5mm clearance between the large washer and the housing of the bushing, set by prying the housing forward before tightening the chassis bolts. Trailing arm or lateral link bushing replacement may require some adjustment and/or marking the cam bolts before removing.

Most fuse panels are assembled in such as way that they can not be opened and serviced. If there is high resistance in one circuit others may be affected as well. I'd go get another fuse panel from a junkyard car. Open the "damaged" one for gits and shiggles.

The oil pan seal almost never leaks. Oil runs down from many other places and gives the appearance that the pan is leaking, but the leaks are usually from valve covers, cam plugs, and the separator plate. Ticking at startup is the hydraulic lifters. MMO works well to clean them and clear up the ticking. Also switch to Valvoline High Mileage oil and a decent filter like Purolator or Subaru black or blue. When you replace the valve cover gaskets check the torque on the rocker shaft assembly bolts.

That diagram will not work with Subaru's switched ground headlamp circuit. Go by his written directions.

It's just the stuff they use in the moulding process to keep the rubber from sticking to the moulds. Nothing worth worrying over. I know how that goes, I have a close friend that's (partially) color blind.

There is a fuse panel diagram in the FSM. It's kinda hard to read though.

I haven't figured out their labeling system yet, the FB and MB tags do seem to indicate which fuse box the power comes from, but no there certainly are not 20 of them. If you scroll to the main power distribution diagrams you will see the wiring coming out of the fuse boxes will have the same labels. You should be able to follow from there to determine which panel you need, but I'm guessing it will be the dash fuse panel. Low voltage would mean low current flow (since they're directly related, along with resistance) so it would make sense that 9v could not deliver adequate current to power 5? bulbs. I wouldn't expect there to be any connectors between the brake switch and fuse panel, except obviously the ones ON the switch and panel.

The grease has nothing to do with "keeping the weather out". The silicone grease is the damper that helps prevent movement of the inner part of the bushing. The design absorbs shock better than a solid rubber bushing, with less motion to boot. But, Once the grease leaks out the bushing can wobble an move around all over the place, and the control arm moves with it. This means the whole wheel moves too. Makes for a fun ride at highway speeds, borderline dangerous hard breaking, and even some torque steer if you accelerate quickly enough. Just replaced the one on the drivers side on my car. Had been leaking for several months and the clunking and weaving around (tram lining) at higher speeds are certainly not missed.

Is it just brake lights or is it tail lights too? It looks like, (the scan is really grainy so it's hard to read) the tail and brake lamps all ground at the same point somewhere in the trunk. If none of the lights work it could be a bad ground. If it's just the brake lamps... did you check all the bulbs? :-p

Entirely possible the radiator cap was the whole problem to begin with. Basically head gaskets don't usually cause problems on the 2.2 engines. They can, but usually they're trouble free for the life of the car. If the head gaskets are leaking the coolant level will slowly drop over the course of a few weeks or months. Keep a close eye on the levels in the radiator, and the overflow, check it in the morning before you start the car. Overheating typically isn't a problem until the coolant level gets significantly low. This could take days or weeks, or even months depending on the severity of the leak. Going X amount of miles before overheating is usually only a sign of a severely bad head gasket, since the leak would be bad enough to fill the cooling system with air in a short amount of time. Another sign of bad head gaskets is little or no heat from the heater. This usually happens if the heater core gets airlocked due to excess air/gasses in the cooling system. This can occur either by compression and combustion gases being forced into the cooling system through the failure point of the head gasket, or simply by the level becoming too low due to a leak elsewhere. And that brings us to the next thing to consider, which is external coolant leaks due to leaking hoses or seals. Coolant tends to have a sweet pungent smell, so if you notice steam or smell something weird after driving take a peek under the car and look for coolant dripping onto the ground, or drops still on the bottom of the engine. I would keep an eye on the coolant level. Drive it around for 45 minutes to an hour at a time in various conditions and see what gives. Keep an eye on the temp needle, if it gets up near the H pull it over and pop the hood to let it cool before continuing.

Rear finisher is just the fascia on the trunk. Check here for 1992 FSM. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Assume you've checked the fuse? :-P

What constitutes a "Bad" plug wire can vary, but as I said before, the part that fails is not always visible to the eye. Internal breaks in the conductor strand or a poor connection between the conductor and the clamp in the boot can cause intermittent issues exactly like what you described in the first post. The plug wires could have also been damaged when removed by the shop. Spark plug wires aren't usually very tough, and it's pretty common for the clamps to come undone when removed, especially on low quality or old wires.

When removing the transmission the exhuast system can be removed as one whole piece. The axles can be easily slid off of the output stubs once the transmission is loose, without having to do any work on the front suspension. The advantage to removing the engine is accessibility, as Nipper said. I've done clutches under the car, it's 100x easier to replace the clutch when the engine is out, it's easier to make sure everything is cleaned properly, there is tons more room to work (you can walk around, don't have to crawl back under the car to grab that socket you need that you left over there). Removing either can be done in about an hour and a half once you have a technique down and know the steps that need to be done. What work needs to be done, and what tools I have available are usually what determine which way I go on this type of thing. If it's just a clutch, probably gonna pull the engine, double check the oil seals and reseal the separator plate while I'm at it. If the front seal on the trans is leaking or the main shaft bearing is making noise I'll drop the trans.

For some things, sure! But don't use KY on your car. (I know the car might look really good, but that's kinda gross ) In all seriousness, ky is water based, it dries in a matter of minutes, then it's "lubricating" properties dry up with it.