Fairtax4me

Most auto parts stores carry it. http://Www.lexol.com

Google is your friend. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=370597036231 These guys also have a good timing kit. Comes with oil seals, and an Aisin water pump that comes with an OE style gasket. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=260925109309

Good gravy this picture is huge! http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/20/2010_Toyota_RAV4_Limited_--_12-12-2010_2.jpg They're not quite as similar as I was thinking...

Shouldn't be all that bad then. Drop the exhaust manifold out of the way, bolt some 2x4s together and prop them between the heads so they join in the center under the oil pan. Use a jack under the 2x4s to lift the engine up off the mounts and slide it forward enough to separate the bell housing just enough to get your hands in there to remove the TOB clips, pop the old fork off and pop the new one on. Ratchet straps can help hold it still while you have your hands in the bell housing. Use heavy lithium grease on the pivot to prevent it from binding and wearing.

Separate engine and trans, replace clutch fork. :-p Not quite that easy and a few things to consider. How old is the current clutch, and has the separator plate on the back of the engine ever been resealed? If you don't know the answer to either, probably a good time to put a clutch in, and pull the engine for the separator plate and wrist pin cover O-ring. Clutch fork is only available from the dealer as far as I know. Or Junkyard if you want to take a gamble. It's only like $30 brand new.

Does anyone else think it looks like a Rav 4?

Have a nice trip? Glad nobodies hurt.

Mink oil is awesome for leather. Pretty much any product that has mink oil will work pretty well, and with a few heavy treatments it should bring them back. There is also a product called Lexol I think? that works really well. It comes in like a copper ish colored bottle. Anything armor-all is crap, don't waste your money on it.

Universals work fine if you get them hooked up correctly. But Rockauto has exact fit Denso for like $50. They also list an NTK sensor for $38 but doesn't say if it's exact fit or universal. NTK is a sister brand or NGK, so their stuff will certainly work in a scubaru.

I've heard IAC valves chatter after the engine is turned off, or when the key is turned to ON but not to start. Some can do this for several minutes before stopping. There is also a vacuum pump in the upper right corner of the firewall that could be spinning down or slowly releasing vacuum after the key is turned off. ABS pump noise is also possible and should be easy to identify. Front engine noise can be too many things to say for sure. Remove the accessory belts and start the engine to rule out AC, alt, PS, and related idlers. Timing idler noise can sound very much like a mad cat in your engine. Remove the covers and listen to each with a long handle screwdriver or mechanics stethoscope. Torque bind That doesn't go away with the FWD fuse installed can be grooved output drum or a jammed duty C solenoid. An electrically dead C solenoid should set a trans code and cause the light to flash. Does the Trans Temp light work during the bulb test after starting or key ON?

Post your vin and we will know exactly what year and which engine code it has. Tenth digit of the VIN is the year. If its a 96 model it should be a T.

He could just break the rest of it apart and toss it in the bed of his truck!

Yes it does. The 2.5 piston crowns are different, and the ej25d stroke is so long the pistons actually stick out past the deck surface of the block at the top of the stroke. If you use the wrong head gasket with the 25D block the pistons will hit the cylinder head.

Aluminum plate riveted on top of the left front strut tower under the hood.

If you have a jig saw and a drill and a bit of time you could make your own transmission adapter. Another option could be to cut the bell housing off an Ej trans and bolt it up to a rwd yota instead of the yoga bell housing. :-p just random idears to avoid blowed up gears in the Ej trans. Or you just do a mid engine RWD swap and lock the Ej trans in FWD.

Apparently they changed the piston crown to boost compression. Removed the recesses for the valves that were in the earlier pistons. I've read that the change was in late 96 or early 97. But nobody seems to know for sure.

Has it been more than 7 years? Has it been more than 60k miles? If you can answer yes to either one, replace the belt and all idlers and water pump.

That's what she said. On a more serious note! A straight 3/16" punch fitted into a deep socket with an extension works great if you don't have the axle pin tool.

I shouldn't laugh but I did anyway. Of all the various threads I've read about wrecked RWD cars, they almost always go along the lines of, "I used to do this in my engine swapped Honda." I just have to laugh when I think that this person expected a RWD car to behave the same as a FWD Honda something or other when the throttle was opened up enough to break the tires loose. There's a very simple rule for pretty much any car when turning. When the drive wheels break loose, they go in the opposite direction of the turn. For a FWD car this means you go straight. For a RWD car this means the back end goes straight, and you end up looking the opposite direction. I can't fathom how people don't understand this, but that's the way my convoluted mind works. Glad the driver and passenger are Ok, and no one else was caught up in the accident. Props to the owner for having the guts to make a public apology. Now go do some donuts in a parking lot and learn to keep the tail in check!

P0328 knock sensor circuit High input Per MY2000 FSM. Dtc detecting condition: immediately at fault recognition. Check harness between KS and ECU connector. Connector B136 Pin 4. Check resistance is less than 400k ohm. If yes then, Check resistance of knock sensor, less than 400k ohm. If no check input voltage at ECU, more than 2v. Knock sensor resistance less than 400k ohm, bad knock sensor. 400k ohm or more, bad ground or bad connection between ECU and knock sensor. ECM input voltage less than2v, poor connection between knock sensor and ECU. With a brand new OE sensor I would certainly blame a poor connection before the sensor but it's entirely possible the sensor is bad. If the block surface under the sensor is corroded that can cause issues as well.

How do you hone a block without a full disassembly? Agree with Gloyale, do it right or don't do it at all. If it needs to be honed at 140k, how hard was it ragged on by its previous owner(s)? The home in the 2.2 in from my wagon was nearly perfect at 175k. The same for the 2.2 out of my 96 sedan. If it really NEEDS to be honed, it NEEDS bearings as well.

Yes. 90-96 2.2 and 1.8 use the same timing parts. This kit has the best price for the quality of parts. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=260925109309&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=03074468444 Aisin is the OE manufacturer of various components for almost all Japanese auto makers. The kit comes with 4 cam seals so you get 2 extras.

The alternator needs current to excite the field windings to begin charging. Once it starts it is self-exciting and will continue to charge. Pulling the negative cable can work but it is NOT smart. Electronics do not respond well to rapid voltage fluctuations, you can cook the ECU as soon as the cable is unhooked. Newer vehicles are especially prone to this since nearly every system of the car has some type of control module. Just take it to autozone or whatever your local parts store is and have them test the battery and charging system.

I found a picture! That's the type of haulers I used to see at the dealership all the time.

The last year for the 2.2 in the US was 01 in the Impreza line. Legacy didn't get them anymore after '99. 96 was the end of the "bulletproof" non-interference 2.2. So in reality the reliable days of the 2.2 ended 16 years ago. The 2.5s are still good engines, you just have to plan on doing some work to them at some point between 100 and 150k miles. You can minimize costs by replacing head gaskets at the 105k timing belt interval. The vehicles themselves seem to be holding up ok, with the exception of a few that like to eat wheel bearings. The 4EAT transmission is just as tough as it ever was. The 5EAT seems to be doing well. The 5 speed manuals are somewhat better in the newer cars except for 99-00 ish which seem to have the transfer gears and center diff grenade. I think Subaru upgraded the synchros and a few other things on the really new MTs.