Fairtax4me

We can't know for sure what you've already done to the car in attempts to correct an issue. If you don't say that the plugs and wires have been replaced with NGK or O.E. parts that wil be the first thing people on this board recommend. The 2.5s are picky about spark plugs, and we see threads about spark plug related misfires all the time. Help us to help you by including recent service work, year model and engine size, and when the concerning issue is likely to happen in the post. This way you don't get "spark plugs and wires" from every other person who posts a reply.

Good ole hobby king. I never could convince myself to spring for the cheapo lipos. I heard lots of good stuff about the Zippy's a few years back, but also heard they were a bit susceptible to puffing if used in offroad cars/trucks that got a lot of rough driving. The LHS has some nice 2s 5000 mAh 35C hard case lipos for under $50. Should easily handle everything I drive.

Wouldn't mind getting my hands on a 2.5 shortblock to rebuild in school but freightg would be $$$ from Co to Va. If you want the 95-96 engine for dual port heads, stick to 95. 96 they switched to single port. Otherwise, you can expand your search up to about 98-99. Besides the interference they fit/work greatly the same. If you want non-interference, go for any 90-95 and use your 2.5's sensors and intake manifold.

All of the PCV hoses can be cleaned with a bottle brush and some brake cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Chip the crud out, spray, brush, repeat until clean. The large hose that attaches to the block may be difficult to remove, but usually doesn't clog so it probably doesn't need to be taken off. The Y section and hoses above it are easily removable by loosening the clamps (channel-lock pliers), and twisting and pulling them apart. Agreed that misfire is probably spark plug related. All too common on the 2.5.

I'd try to avoid packing the cars to the gills with parts because weight does play a big factor in how many vehicles a hauler can handle. I think 84,000 lbs is the legal limit without special permits. Some of the larger rigs already weigh over half that unloaded. Adding even a few hundred pounds to each car can make a big difference. If a driver shows up to pick up the cars and finds them packed to the brim full of tools and spare parts they may increase the rate, or turn down the job altogether.

I'd fix it. The way I see it, if the engine has made it that far it deserves every chance to make 400k or more If the body of the car isn't rusted out.

Loose spark plug wire. Misfires do not always trigger a CEL right away. Check plug wires first. Any that aren't clicked on all the way can cause problems just like this. Also entirely possible that one was damaged internally during removal. The conductor can break where the clamp is attached and you would never know without taking the boot off.

Odds of needing new seals are pretty good if your previous mechanic used cheap seals or installed them incorrectly. Lots of people have run into problems with parts store seals on these cars. It could also be something like the separator plate, or the oil pump leaking. If your old mechanic replaced the rear main seal, I'd bet that's leaking too. Rear main seals are VERY EASY to screw up on these. The originals hardly ever go bad, but they get blamed for leaks on the back of the engine that are actually caused by the other two seals in the same area, then they get replaced, and then the replacements start to leak within just a few months. These cars have about a dozen different places where oil can, and does quite often, leak from. The rear main seal isn't one of them. I'd clean the engine as well as you can, and find out exactly where the leaks are coming from before putting the sign in the window. Like Woodswagon said, it's probably something that can be lived with as long as you keep your eye on the fluid levels. Worst case you find someone who can put some seals on it if you're uncomfortable doing it yourself. Try to avoid pressure washing. A regular water hose is usually enough for knocking crud away. Purple Power works great for cutting the grease and oil. Just keep the spray pointed away from plug wires, wire harness plugs, and the alternator. I like to get the engine warm before cleaning. I think it helps knock loose some of the crud. And it will also speed the drying process if you get any water into a connector or one of the spark plug wells. edit: P0483 Cooling fan function problem. Basically the ECU thinks the fan isn't running. This can trigger if the engine overheats. Or if there is something blocking the radiator or front of the car preventing normal cooling when the fan is running. Connect the two green plugs under the dash (to the right of the steering column) turn the key to ON and see if both fans run. They will cycle on off in roughly roughly half second intervals. And a ton of other relays and solenoids will click and carry on like the car is possessed. Don't worry, it's just in Test Mode.

Yeah the factory plugs wire colors on the plug match the harness. Someone probably replaced them because they corroded or melted because of high resistance/poor connection. Happens fairly often on these. Wire diagram for the headlights without DRLs.

Most of the larger carriers can handle 10- 12 cars at a time depending on weight. I saw one with 14 once, they were all Smart cars, but that's still a lot of cars! Generally the more cars you ship the less it's going to cost per car. An average owner-operator has a trailer that will hold about 7-9 cars. A full load is probably gonna be between 2 and 3 grand for that distance, but it can vary depending on what the driver has scheduled. If he has a load to pick up in PA to take back, you'll probably get a little break.

Hydro-lock is the nail in the coffin. :-\ This probably means rod bearing damage. Piston and/or wrist pin damage is also possible. Pulling the fuel injector wires one at a time while the engine is running may make a change in the noise. But it looks like you get to pull the engine out and replace the block at the very least. You can check the valve lash before tearing the engine apart in case there is some sort of coincidental damage like maybe a spring has broken or if a guide has slipped and is holding a valve open.

So the engine was able to run on it's own, with no noise before replacing the fuel injectors?

Only issue with using a chain wrench on the crank is that the outer section of the pulley may separate, but it's much easier to replace a harmonic balancer than it is to pull an engine and re-seat a torque converter. I don't particularly like the screwdriver in the flywheel method, but it does work.

Was the noise present before changing the injectors?

You can hire a private carrier to haul them. Try googling or go to one of your local used car dealers and ask who they use for auction deliveries. It shouldn't take much to find a carrier who will do it, but be prepared as you may end up spending a couple grand on transport. Never get rid of tools! I mean as long as your collection is within reason. If you have like 12 impact wrenches and only use 2, you can probably stand to sell a few of them. :-p But for the most part, tools are much harder and much more expensive to repurchase after selling than they are to just move with you. If you've been thinking about buying that new table saw or (insert name of tool here) for a long time, now might be the time to sell the old one and buy that fancy new one when you get settled in after the move.

Tensioner looks fine to me. I still wanna say valve lash is out of spec. What's the story for this engine? How long has it been in the car? Is it a recent rebuild? Head gasket job?

Does the Check Engine Light ever blink? Like Rooster said, many auto parts stores will scan CEL codes for free. Just ask.

I like the flappy tensioner idea. Have you checked that yet? You can probably see it by removing the drivers side belt cover. Only way to check the flex-plate is to remove the engine. Flex plate or rod bearing it needs to come out of the car.

Subaru switches the ground circuits for the headlights. The headlights are powered through separate fuses and relays when key ON. one fuse and relay for each side. The ground paths of each filament are tied together, and then grounded via the dimmer switch. The dimmer switch changes which filament gets the ground path. The headlamp switch grounds the headlamp relays. Multi-meter readings can appear strange if you are used to switched power circuits. Left side: R/B = 12V from fuse 24 Y = low filament ground R = high filament ground Right side B/Y = 12V from fuse 26 Y = low filament ground R = high filament ground On these it's best to just check continuity on the ground sides rather than voltage. Are the wires are just hanging, and the original headlight plugs gone? If the originals are there just match up the wire colors. If not, junkyard. I can post the wire diagram if you'd like. Hazards and turn signals use the same flasher relay. It could be bad but if the turn signals work then probably not. Could be a bad switch or blown fuse.

The engine and trans can be separated without removing the flexplate bolts. You have to pull the torque converter out still attached to the engine. It usually means you have to buy a new input seal for the transmission, and you get to re-seat the torque converter with no reference point.

I'd try a new fuel filter. The ECU is detecting change in the speed of crankshaft rotation to determine when a misfire occurs. It may mean that it's not misfiring but perhaps just not firing as well as it should. It could also be happening only at higher RPM if the engine is starting to starve of fuel. Could have got some water in the gas as well. Especially if you used an old gas can, or borrowed one from the shady gas station that you had to walk to. :-p Maybe a bottle of Heet first, and some fresh gas from a reputable station?

Manual trans you can stick a screwdriver into the teeth of the flywheel, but it has to be a tough screwdriver or the end will just break off. Auto trans is a little different setup, and is actually easier. Stick screwdriver straight through hole, turn crankshaft until it slides into one of the various holes in the flywheel. Don't forget to remove the screwdriver before attempting to start the engine.

Had to go find a picture of my Slash rippin' it up in the snow. Nothing really special about it. Stock electronicals paired with a 17T Speed Gems brushed motor, and Pro-line Sand paws on the back (for the snow). Just enough to make it fly about 8-10 feet off a good ramp. Kick those chickens!

That thing is crazy! Crazy cool! Props for an awesome custom build! I have an E-flite Cx-3 that got me started in the air, and wanted to move to something a bit more advanced but the budget and time both crunched on me. Of my 5 various RC road based vehicles, I have driven only one in the last ~two years. And I flew the heli for the first time in almost a year about 3 months ago. I have about $250 worth of dead NiCd battery packs for the cars collecting dust along with all my other RC tools and spare/random parts. If I had the $ for some new Lipos I would certainly get at least one or two of them back into drive-worthy shape and go for a spin. But school = no spare $$. After seeing this I think I need to break out the heli this weekend and fly it around. Maybe chase the neighbors cat since it sprayed my car a few days ago.

I'd try searching somewhere like Subaruoutback.org, since they tend to focus a bit more on the newer models, and the Outback specifically. If the newer bumpers are anything like the old ones, there is a thin metal upper support right underneath the plastic at the top. The plastic cover is attached to this with several expanding push clips. Drill an appropriate sized hole and stick the mounting bolt through and attach with a nut and washer on the bottom side. You may be able to do this with the bumper still in place by removing the grille. If I were a gamblin' man, i'd bet you are very likely to find a write-up for the exact process on the aforementioned website.