Fairtax4me

FWD = Front Wheel Drive Haynes manual won't say jack about it. All the info about the FWD fuse is in the Owners manual. Short and sweet version. There should NOT normally be a fuse in the FWD holder fuse. When a fuse is placed in the FWD fuse holder it disables the AWD system, and allows engine power to reach only the front wheels. This is used when a spare tire is on the car to avoid damage to the AWD components in the transmission. It can also be useful when diagnosing certain problems with the AWD system.

You clearly have spark from all 4 outputs of the coil, so I don't understand why you're testing the coil. Knocking sound is incorrect valve clearance. Sounds too rapid to be a rod bearing, unless several have failed at the same time.

Screaching sound? Doesn't bode well. Does it only make this sound when moving? Does it make any noise if idling in neutral? Does it go away if you depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it? Usually easiest to pull the trans by itself, it isn't hard to bring it out from under with a large floor jack. A rebuild is way too costly on these. Synchro replacement means disassembling the shafts entirely, which means you need a press, and a few special tools to hold everything and press new parts off/onto the shafts. Without a press... This puller barely got just the main shaft roller bearing loose on the one I just worked on a few months ago: And that is a standard sized folding metal chair it's sitting on. Those puller jaws are roughly 16". I'm thinking you might have a worn transfer gear set, or bad bearing on one of the transfer shafts. Those can all be inspected and replaced if necessary without even removing the transmission from the car. Though it is much easier to work on a transmission on a bench.

If there were a state in your profile, so we could tell which West Chester you live in, we might be able to make some suggestions.

If the lower flare nut was left loose there would be a decent sized exhaust leak where the EGR pipe enters the cylinder head. It could certainly cause some clicky sounding noises... BUT, it would be more prominent on the drivers side... you know, since that's where it is and all. :-p Noise definitely coming from the passenger side... There is some chance that one of the valve guides has come loose and is in there bouncing around. It has been known to happen on these engines. But, I don't really see how it would have run for ~6 months now without causing some other form of damage with a loose guide. Have you been driving it this whole time? I'm sure you've done it, but just check lash clearance again. Push in on the buckets to see if any move a large amount.

Yeah I had to set that after my lift and the first time I got it about 60 degrees off to the right. And the car pulled left so I had to turn it even farther right to go straight! Then I got it closer with the method described above and fiddled with the toe a bit and got it to go straight. Then the wheel was to the left about 15 degrees, but I figured it was close enough. The alignment shop fixed that, but then they made it pull left again. So I had to take it back a second time and make them fix it. The guy made some excuse that it was the tires, but I had already swapped on a whole different set of wheels and it still pulled the exact same way with those so the snow tires went back on before I took it back. He did rotate the wheels because I put the crappy looking wheels on the drivers side and they were on the passenger side when he brought it back out, but it goes straight now so I don't care what he did. :-p

I think they're blowin' smoke up your @$$ thinking you'll either pay them for an engine job or trade-in the car for a new one. Timing has to be off far enough to bend a valve to make that noise. The bent valve would not return all the way and the lash clearance (cam lob to bucket) would be obviously wrong. Have you checked the EGR pipe on the back of the drivers side head? (if it has it) Which side is the noise coming from? Number 3 should be right (passenger) side rear cylinder.

I figured out a simple way to set that (at least somewhat near the middle). Set the road wheels to something like straight, measure from the body panel edges for reference if you need to. Lower the steering rack a bit, just loosen the clamps but don't remove them (because they're a beach). Now remove the U-joint altogether. Set the steering wheel to straight. Install the U joint onto the column shaft with the pinch opening facing straight down don't put the bolt in yet. Push the rack up a bit with a floor jack to hold it while you fiddle the U joint to fit onto the rack splines. You'll probably have to turn the steering wheel a bit one way or the other, pick the closest direction and go for it. Then tighten the bolts to pull the rack back up into place, put the bolts in the pinch joints and tighten.

Per 1997 FSM: Toe-in: mm 0±3 (in 0±0.12) Total toe angle: 0°±20′

Some K&W Trans-X, or Seafoam Trans Tune might help. Friend of mines 99 Forester was shifting really hard between 1-2, also had the delayed forward engagement issue. Trans-X fixed the delayed engagement immediately (literally the first drive after pouring it in) and after 3 or 4 drives the hard shift smoothed out as well. This was after a shop charged her $149 for a transmission fluid flush that didn't change a thing. For about $15 it's worth a small gamble to try it.

You can easily do 35 with an Ej18, and have more power to go with it. An early ej22 would be a simple swap (obd1) and will get you about 35 more hp than the ej18, and still get you ~low 30 mpg when driven right. I would expect at least mid 30's with the lightweight EA chassis.

Holy Thread Resurrection Batman!! 2 years, 5 months, and 20 days later... Soob seems to be holding up ok, even after planting the right side in a ditch AGAIN! Driving too fast on a gravel back road (because the Soob is awesome on gravel!) crest a hill and there's a car! Going 50 downhill on gravel you dont stop very quick. Bounced the right wheels off a drain culvert on the side of the road because the ditch was a better option than a head-on (apply directly to the forehead). It did actually knock it out of alignment that time though. One day I'll invent brakes that still slow the car even when the wheels are locked.

Double check it if you haven't already. Beyond that, it's entirely possible the IAC is bad or is in need of cleaning. There are a few different kinds. I know the cone valve type that screws to the side of the throttle body is somewhat prone to failure, but tends to cause noticeable rough idle issues. Another type bolts to the top of the throttle body and has a 3 sectioned O ring that can swell and degrade and cause problems. A new O ring is only a few $ from a dealer though.

1500 RPM is about right for a cold start idle. It should slow to about 750 rpm over the course of about 30 seconds to several minutes depending on outside temp.

My guess would be they didn't connect the Neutral Position Switch wiring, OR they didn't ground the MT identifier pin on the ECU. All of the manual transmissions have a switch on the side that reports to the ECU when the trans is in gear or neutral. It's actuated by the shift rod inside the trans as it moves forward or back. Very simple, two wires, its either in gear or it's not, and it has NOTHING in common with the inhibitor switch found on the automagics. (don't get 'em confused) Also has NOTHING to do with the Neutral Safety Switch under the clutch pedal. The ECU uses this switch to determine fuel ratio and set idle speed. Basically, the ECU is trying to bring the engine back to idle RPM after you take your foot off the throttle, but because the trans is in gear while you're coasting it can't. The RPM is high and the ECU sees this as a fault with the idle control. Find a wiring diagram and ECU I/O pinout for that model, check first if the P/O even connected the wires, and then check that they're in the correct places. The NPS is on the drivers side of the transmission at the back near the tail housing where the shift rod enters the case.

Every drive is an adventure with a timing belt that looks like that! Btw, 95 2.2 timing belt kit with Aisin water pump and brown cam and crank seals from Mizumoauto on eBay is only like $130 shipped. Look for their kit to save a couple few $$ when you finally get around to it. Personally, I'd at the very least change the belt, even if you have to wait another couple months to buy a new kit. Even if you got a decent condition used belt off a junkyard car.

Found a good Youtube review of the XV by Carbuyer.co.uk. Turn on the closed captioning for more entertainment. Apparently the auto caption doesn't understand Bri-ish.

This is a good point, the gears in the trans for the speed sensor are different depending on what FDR you have. But if you match the tire size to the car that the transmission came out of it will/should not affect the speedometer.

Retailmenot.com Search for Advanceautoparts.com Find the code that suits you best. I quite often add something like a spark plug, or can of cleaner, or tube of goo, to a (hypothetical example) $73.99 order to bump the total over $75 and get free shipping, or get the extra $10 or whatever more discount for getting into the next tier. Also when ordering multiple parts that cost over about $75. I put them on separate orders and use discount codes for each. I might order them a day apart though.

Bigger turbo means more lag. I'm guessing what he means is he wants bigger boost. 2 words: Cobb AccessPORT. done. http://www.cobbtuning.com/Subaru-AccessPORT-p/ap-sub-001.htm You'll need that to make any real use of a larger turbo anyway since boost levels are kinda set by the ECU on these. I think there are some ways to fool the ECU but those usually lead to hole ----> engine territory.

Front diff can't easily be changed. The pinion shaft runs through the center of the countershaft of the transmission. That has to be swapped along with the ring gear, or the whole front diff, then you have to set the pinion depth, pinion to ring gear backlash and preload on the carrier bearings. And to get to any of it you have to disassemble the whole transmission and split the case. If you know you have a good transmission (good synchros, good input shaft bearing) and just want to swap the diff and pinion shaft it's entirely doable, but it's a lot of tedious work, and usually not worth the time. It's much easier and faster to just swap the rear diff to match ratios.

The exhaust pipes can smoke for quite a while. Oil can get between the heat shields and the pipes and takes a long time to burn away. Also any grease (cv grease) takes a LONG time to burn off. People say the O2 needs to be OE, but I'm not entirely convinced. OE sensor is probably either Denso or NTK. Rockauto carries both (with OE connector) for about $50. Bosch universals have worked fine for me on several cars and are usually about $50 from Advance Auto, plus you can use discount codes to get more $$ off when you order online, then go pick it up at the store. Speaking of O2 sensor. I need to add that one to the list of crap my car needs. I can't seem to get any better than about 27 mpg out of it lately.

This defeats the purpose of ALLOWING the rear wheels to turn. The rear diff has to turn so that all of the bolts on the pinion flange are accessible. You now have to disengage the e-brake in order to turn the wheel so the diff will turn. And then what? The car rolls off the jack stand... The Ebrake might not always hold the car either. It' still a mechanical device. The cable could break, the ratchet mechanism could break. The side you have on the ground could be out of adjustment and will still allow the car to roll even with the brake engaged.

Jack stands really are the best (safest) way to get the car off the ground for this but without them you can substitute large tree trunks, or wheels (layed flat) under the rocker pinch seams. One jack stand is better than none. Block both front wheels so the car will not roll. Put the stand under one side so one rear wheel is off the ground. Be sure the stand is on a solid surface like concrete. If on dirt or gravel put a piece of plywood under the stand to spread the weight.

Head bolts do not enter any part of the block that is under oil pressure. Oil in one of the bolt holes could be from assembly, or from a leak between the head gasket and block/head, or it can leak in under the washer at the top. But oil on the bolts doesn't matter. Clean the bolts, spray the crud out of the bolt holes in the block, and dip them in fresh engine oil prior to re-install. To do head gaskets cheaply on a Subaru you only need exactly TWO (2, too) parts. One head gasket for the left side side. One head gasket for the right side. The rest can be reused. Bolts, intake gaskets, exhaust gaskets, valve cover gaskets, all are reusable assuming they don't get damaged during dis-assembly.