Fairtax4me

That's an entirely different thing, but should be easy to find out what the computer thinks is wrong by just reading the codes. Secret handshake method for AT codes.

Could just be a bad pressure switch then. Unplug it. It's one wire under the alternator. If it stops flashing, that's the problem.

Could be worn linkage bushings or worn out bushings in the u-joint thing that the front of the linkage causing it to stick. No way for it to be stuck in 2 gears at the same time, the trans would lock up and the car wouldn't move at all if that happened.

Flashing when? Afaik, that circuit only goes to the pressure switch and the light only comes on if the pressure drops too low. Too low meaning 3-5 psi. Sometimes that's due to seriously low oil level. (So low the pump is picking up air) If that's the case the engine is probably toast at this point.

Probably get a good used one from somebody in the parts/classified section.

Unless it's a serious leak I would just leave them alone. Pretty sure the 01 still has the type that have to be knocked out from inside the cup, which means careful marking and counting the number of turns when you remove it. Later years I think around 04 they changed it so the seals are on the outside and more easily replaceable. I would not try to adjust the clearance on the diff gears. Put it back exactly the same way. It has made it this far on that setting... No point changing it.

Sorry, forgot about the high beam indicator. In low beam position You'll have voltage on the high beam ground wire because of the indicator light.

Right side Red: high beam ground Black/yellow: 12v supply Yellow/blue: low beam ground Left side Red: high beam ground Red/Blue: 12v supply Yellow/blue: low beam ground On these cars the Grounds are switched, Not the supply. Bulb unplugged, testing at the factory socket, voltmeter grounded to battery - Low beam position you will have 12v only on the supply wire. High beam position you will have 12v on the supply wire, and (if the car has factory fog lamps), will show 12v on the yellow/blue wire if the fog lamp switch is On. With fog lamp switch Off, you should only have power on the supply wire. What will change is continuity to ground. On high beam position, continuity to ground will be on the Red wire. On low beam position continuity to ground will be on the yellow/blue wire.

Depends on what, if any, damage is done to the crankshaft. If you have the ability to re-grind the crank if it's scored then I would say rebuild it. if it comes down to replacing the crankshaft, a new shortblock my be a better option.

The new radiator didn't come with the new fittings for the cooler? Normally if I replace a radiator on an automatic I just spend the $15 on new Atf cooler hoses and replace them as well. If the steel lines that run along the frame rail are rusted up I just run new hose all the way to the trans. How old are the radiator hoses? Thermostat?

You must have them wired wrong. Did you get real HIDs or the fake "HID style" halogens? Real HID lamps need a ballast module to work properly and that's going to need its own separate wiring to function correctly.

Use LED lights and you don't need a relay. What year/model?

Yeah the headlamps share common power and are grounded through the hi-lo switch. You'll have 12v on the wire for the filament that isn't lit, because that wire is not grounded at that time. Gets more fun when you have fog lamps due to the wiring for the fog lamp relay.

Not really the same problem then is it. When they did the alignment did they adjust camber as well? Did they adjust the front AND rear, or just the front? Did they give you a printout with the before and after angles?

Transfer solenoid should be in the tail housing on that one. I would pull the housing and replace the solenoid and inspect the clutches while its apart. More than likely they're ok, but you may find that the drum they sit in is grooved. Mild grooving can simply be filed down. If it's excessive you will be better off replacing the drum and clutches. Actually I wouldn't pull the tail yet. If the light is intermittent, that could just mean you have a wire issue such as a poor connection in the main harness connector, or a chafed wire in the harness where it runs down the side of the trans. Could also be a pinched or chafed wire inside the pan where it runs along the bottom of the valve body to the back of the trans.

I re-use coolant all the time. Not a big deal at all as long as the container you drained it into is fairly clean. Use cheesecloth in a funnel or a wire strainer to filter out any big chunks like leaves that might have fallen in. Pour it out of the catch container and into the jug it originally came in. If you already added coolant conditioner, just re-use the coolant that has that in it already and there's no need to add more.

I've had a few that wouldn't stay put on their own, but they always fit completely into the groove in the housing. If it didn't fit all the way into the groove, then yes I think that needs to be taken off and re-fitted, and possibly a new gasket used if it's damaged. I don't think that it would have damaged the thermostat. Subaru thermostats are pretty tough.

Thermostat should fit into the groove in the water pump. The rubber gasket may not be situated properly on the thermostat. I usually wipe some coolant on the gasket to help it slip into the groove. This is probably your leak if the gasket isn't seated properly. You will likely need to replace the gasket. Which way did you face the spring? Did you use a Subaru OE thermostat? Radiator fans running gives no indication of thermostat operation. It only means the coolant at the area of the temp sensor has reached around 204°f, which is the temperature at which the ECU is programmed to command the fans to turn on. It shouldn't be that hard to get all of the air out of the cooling system on that year car. On some of the older cars it was tricky, but Subaru re-designed the radiator around 2000 and the majority of problems with properly filling the cooling system were eliminated with that change. Was your coolant mixed 50/50? How much did you pour in? Should hold somewhere around 1.5 gallons.

That light comes on when it's basically too late. You can put a pressure guage on it and see what the pressure actually is. It may be a faulty pressure switch. If it is low pressure, check the pump and the pickup tube first. Beyond that you're looking at bad main and/or rod bearings. Those will also be accompanied by silver swirls in the oil.

Coolant temp has to reach 204°F for the ECU to turn on the fans. Thermostat starts to open at 170, and is full open around 192. If it's cool out and the hood is up there's usually enough cooling capacity in the radiator to keep the engine from reaching 204 at idle. Really the only important thing is that it reaches full operating temp and maintains that for a few minutes so coolant will circulate through the entire system and push any air pockets out of the block. Normally when the radiator is full the engine block is also full of coolant. When you drain the radiator, the coolant in the block also drains (slowly) through the jiggle valve. If you yank the thermostat housing right off, and then pull the thermostat off right away you'll get about a half gallon or so of coolant out of the block running down your arm.

If the outside temp is fairly cool you will likely need to close the hood to get enough heat to make the fans turn on. It could still take 20-30 minutes for them to turn on at idle. The Subaru thermostat design has a jiggle valve that allows a small amount of coolant to trickle past the thermostat. If you wait long enough, there will be almost no coolant left in the block so very little will spill out when you remove the t-stat.

Replaced the MAF and had no change? Have you replaced the knock sensor? Those fail pretty often and don't always set a code.

Which bearings did you replace? It goes away completely when you shift to neutral? Does it change if you just coast with it in gear?

There are a handful of people here who use it and recommend it for that and other areas like oil pan gaskets, trans pan gaskets, etc.

Code didn't come back. I was watching the emissions monitors to make sure the evap monitor set as "Ready", meaning the monitor ran through its diagnostic of the evap system and didn't find a fault. Didn't have time to take it 65 miles and try to exactly replicate the drive she was on when the code set. She has to take it to the dealer this week anyway to have them perform a recall on it for something with the wiper motor/linkage. That's about a 60 mile drive round trip, and then she's making the same 65 mile trip again next week. Should find out pretty soon if it's going to come back.