Fairtax4me

A propane torch might take a LONG time to get it good and hot but you can use it. Just keep the flame away from the plastic timing covers and other rubber parts. Can you grab the end with vice grips? If so clamp them down as tight as you can and try tapping the handle with a hammer to help knock the stud loose. An overnight soak in PB or other rust penetrating oil will help as well.

Spark plugs don't need to be replaced at 30K unless it's a turbo engine, but it certainly won't hurt to replace them. Fluid service is the main thing at 30k. Oil, ATF, trans gear oil, differentials, brake fluid, clutch fluid, etc.

I've never bled one of these but I've had some fun with bleeding hydraulic clutches that DON'T have a bleeder on the slave cylinder. Remove the slave cylinder, dunk the whole thing (clean it off really well first) into a big bowl full of brake fluid. Gloves recommended for this. Make sure the hose inlet is at the highest point, keep the bleeder valve closed. Squeeze the plunger all the way in and all the way out several times. End with the plunger out so the cylinder is completely full or fluid. If the line is easily removeable from the car, install it onto the slave cylinder while it's still completely submerged. Now pick up the cylinder, stick the other end of the line into the bowl, squeeze the plunger in to expel all of the air from the line. Release the plunger to fill the line with fluid. Put a cap on the end of the line. Move the assembly to the car and loosely install the cylinder so the plunger does not get pushed. Remove the cap and thread the line into the master cylinder. Pour fluid into the master cylinder to the bottom of the reservoir. DO NOT FILL the reservoir. Now install the slave cylinder and tighten it into place. The plunger should depress by a fair amount, and fluid from the slave cylinder should push up into the master cylinder. Top off the reservoir. This method should require no further bleeding. If the clutch feel is still not right, the master cylinder may be bad.

That metal is just too thin. It doesn't help that the part is stamped. Even after brazing it would fatigue and crack the same way. Someone needs to mold a heavy duty one out of the same ABS that the pump housing is made of, or CNC an aluminum one.

Lifter tick, while annoying isn't really going to hurt anything. Try switching to a high mileage oil such as Valvoline or Castrol. My cars seem to prefer the Valvoline. A quality oil filter can make a difference as well.

Any speed related transmission noise would be a front differential problem. You can drain the fluid and check for metal in the oil and large metal particles on the drain plug magnet. Clean fluid and minimal very fine metal on the magnet will rule out the differential. Sounds like an axle problem.

PCV is on the "suction" end of the breather system. The "feed" end of fresh air end is the breather hoses to the valve covers. Air travels into the engine from the intake tube, through the breather hoses into the valve covers. Then pulled through and out of the crankcase through the PCV valve. Under boost the PCV valve has to close, otherwise boost pressure would feed into the crankcase. In some cases the PCV valve can clog or sludge and hang open which will allow pressure to bleed off, but this allows boost pressure into the crankcase. Cylinder pressure escapes past the rings and creates pressure in the crankcase, which would normally be pulled into the intake by the PCV valve, but because it has to close the pressure in the crankcase builds. This causes the flow of air in the breather hoses to reverse, carrying oil vapor from the crankcase back out into the intake tube somewhere before the turbo.

Bulb test occurs when the ignition is turned to ON. all of the bulbs in the dash light up. The CEL comes on for a few seconds then goes out. It's just to verify that the bulb is working. Does this start immediately after starting when the engine is cold, or does it happen after the engine warms up?

A dead injector (not spraying at all) would almost certainly show a misfire code. Does the CEL come on during the bulb test? Grease can foul certain types of O2 sensors. If the sensor on the front Cat has any grease on it that could be causing trouble. Double double check the connections on the intake tube and airbox. Make sure the breather hoses are attached correctly. Any source of air entering the intake tubing behind the MAF (if it has one) will cause problems like this.

Even if that in tank filter fits, DO NOT remove the underhood filter, as it may still be necessary to properly filter the fuel. This looks like a promising source for the elusive broken metal cap. Definitely waiting to hear how it works out!

Possibly a turbo seal, but that's usually oil from the breather system. Blowby causes excessive crankcase pressure and pushes oil out of the crankcase through the breather hoses. It's an unavoidable reality with turbo engines. A catch can would help.

Either head gasket or worn valve guides. You can drop the Y pipe and look up into the port, if there is a lot of oil inside the port it's valve guides. Do you have any blue smoke out of the tail pipe at startup?

High flow dry filters are OK. Actually the stock filter from Subaru has very good flow characteristics. Try to stay away from wet filters as the oil can create problems with the MAF sensor signal. Any filter that pulls air from inside the engine bay (exposed cone filter) will impede performance. The stock airbox pulls cool air from just behind the passenger headlight and through a water separator in the fender area before going into the filter.

There are lots of variations in the design of clutch disks. The 6 spring one could be a heavy duty version, it could be a light duty version, or it could just be that manufacturers design.

In some places heat shields are used to keep heat away from other components, but they are also have the effect of keeping heat IN the exhaust system, by insulating the pipes from outside air. Internal temp of the cats has to be around 600*F before the catalyst reaction starts to happen. Nominal temp is going to be around 750 - 850*. Below that the reaction doesn't happen fast enough, and the gases coming out of the cat may be too low in oxygen content. The heat shields help keep heat in the pipes, which helps to regulate the operation and efficiency of the catalyst. Too hot and the metals that cause the reaction will melt and can clog the cat or just get flung out the back. Either way, overheating means the cat doesn't work as well as it should. The ECU varies fuel mixture to help control cat temps. The changes happen hundreds of times per second, and the front O2 sensor reports these mixture changes back to the ECU. As a result lazy front O2 sensor will affect cat temperature, and that will be reflected in rear O2 sensor readings, which can then trigger a P0420.

That much?! I've carried a 2.2 short block without the flywheel with one hand. Didnt feel like any 110 lbs, but maybe the 2.2 weighs a bit less? That's about 2/3 my body weight. No wonder I had a sore back after that!

I though about this idea a while ago and I think I decided there wasn't enough room depthwise for the stereo in the top. Not all head units are the same length though. I'm sure it can be done. The solution I came up with though was to swap the cubby to the middle hole and the radio to the bottom so I can see it and eject CDs while the cup holder is in use.

I don't understand how they even put it on the car if the spline count was different!? I don't know enough about the differences in axle stubs between the EA and EJ cars to say one way or the other.

Are you on the left side or right side? There are two level senders on the Awd cars, one for each half of the tank and they average so the gauge will be somewhat accurate under about 1/2 tank. The one on the left side (driver side for US models) I think should just be a level sender. I can check the FSM when I get home later. Speaking of which, if you want to download it I can post a link later.

If it was one of those "worldwide" rebuilt units they are complete JUNK and you wasted your money. Subaru sells alternators re-manufactured to like new specification for that generation Legacy for about $75. If this was going on before swapping the alternator, you probably need new plugs and wires. You might also double check your battery and ground connections.

As long as you didn't put a spark plug in the tank, no. Funny thing about gas. It's extremely flammable in the right vapor concentration, called the stoichiometric ratio. That's the mixture of fuel to air ratio. Mix the right amount of fuel and air, plus a spark/flame/etc., you get a big bang. But inside a closed fuel tank, there's very little air. It's mostly fuel vapor, and without enough oxygen it doesn't combust. So you can get small sparks/ arcing without it relocating your trunk. Glad to hear you got it going!

Struts are an easy swap, but on these cars you have to disconnect the brake hoses, so you'll want a quart of brake fluid for bleeding the air out of the lines afterward. Check the condition of the springs. If they're rusty, get new ones. They break quite often due to rust. You can buy pre-built strut assemblies that have new strut, spring and mount already put together and all you have to do is pop it on the car. Avoid Monroe like the plague. KYB is factory OEM and are the best struts you can buy for a stock replacement. You should also check other suspension components, ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings. The rear bushings are fluid filled and will leak a heavy grey silicone oil when they split. After a while they wobble all over the place and make clunky noises and floaty/drifting suspension feel.

Yeah chances are good they'll total it. But, tell them you want the car for salvage. They'll give you a slightly lower payout, couple hundred $$ usually but you keep the car. Then you can fix it with junkyard parts and drive on. AC condenser, radiator, fans, header panel, hood, headlights. Should only be a few hundred $$ to fix it.

It may have continuity but the reason they burn like that is usually because the female connector doesn't grip the male connector tightly enough. The loose fit causes high resistance and subsequently high heat and arcing. Is there any way you can cut the plug out entirely and connect the wires with crimp connectors? I would use the high quality double jacketed type that cost twice as much. But they'll work better.

Still think the one where the Sti pulled the semi up the hill in the snow was better.