Fairtax4me

That's great you know where it is! You can check some wires there as well then. The modulator is what grounds the pump, check the black wire at the pump for continuity to chassis ground with the key ON. As I said before, there should be low or no resistance there with key ON. High or infinite resistance could indicate an open circuit which would mean the ground wire is damaged or the mod. is bad. Should be 4 wires on the modulator, Yellow, Black, Blue, and Red/yellow. Yellow is the pump ground. Continuity from the black at the pump to the yellow at the modulator. Should be low or 0 ohm resistance. Should also show continuity to chassis ground with key ON. This may only show during prime test. High or infinite resistance would likely mean the modulator is bad. Black wire on the modulator is the ground. This should show continuity to chassis ground at all times. Should also show some resistance between there and the black wire at the pump. They are connected but there is a resistor in the way. Blue wire to the Modulator. Same blue wire that feeds 12V to the pump. That should also be 12V w/key ON during the prime test. If you get 0V, check for continuity from the blue wire at the relay to the blue at the modulator. Should show very low or 0 ohm. Red/yellow goes to the ECU. I said this may be 5V reference before, but it could be ground to turn the modulator on/off. Hard to say, but it can be tested. Connector unplugged, Check for DCV at the red/yellow w/ key ON. If no voltage present check for cont. to ground. This may only show during the prime test, since the ECU controls this circuit.

OBD2 is more sensitive because of emissions regulations. With OBD1 the engine could be on fire and the ECU wouldn't set any codes. You can have sensors fail almost completely and the ECU wouldn't know, or wouldn't set a code for it. OBD2 came about because of pollution laws. OBD1 was more of an "in between" while manufacturers were working out the OBD2 bugs and getting them system implemented. But the whole idea is to prevent excessive pollution in the form of high carbon and NOx emissions. To do that, it needs to be sensitive enough to alert the driver immediately when there is a problem, by illuminating the CEL. Generally when the CEL blinks on and off several times, it's due to a misfire (not a glitch), which is a major source of emissions and can damage the cats, which then compounds the emissions problem. If the misfire clears up the CEL turns off, the ECU should set a "pending" code, which may clear or may not when the key is cycled. But if it continues for a certain time the CEL will stop blinking and stay on, and the ECU will set a current code.

Ok, the Grn/blk wire is the ground to the ECU. Since voltage goes to 0 when the ground is open (ECU opens/closes the circuit to allow 12v to pass through the relay) that shows the ECU is grounding the circuit properly, at least during the prime test (builds pressure in the lines for starting) You should also have 12V w/ key ON at the Yellow wire to the relay. This should show 12V when grounded to chassis ground. If the relay is working properly you should be getting 12V on the blue wire for the ~3 seconds or so during the prime test. Put the negative probe on a clean chassis ground point somewhere under the dash when checking this. Pretty much any clean metal part or bolt head should work. At the pump, if you disconnect the connector and test the blue wire during the prime test (you'll need to connect the meter and then go turn the key while watching it. Again, ground the meter negative to the chassis, even if it's just the floor pan of the car, don't ground to other wires) you should see 12V. If you have 12V at the relay blue wire during prime test, but not at the pump blue wire there is an open in the circuit somewhere between the relay and pump. Then check for continuity across the blue wire by connecting the meter to each end. You may need to string a wire across the car if your test leads aren't long enough to reach. If 12V at relay AND pump on blue wires during prime test, the pump modulator (which I still haven't found a location for) is probably faulty. The Green/white, Green /yellow, and Orange wires at the pump are for the level sender unit. No need to mess with those.

That means the ECU is cutting the ground to the relay as it should after the prime test is done. That is normal operation. Did you check the blk/wht wire for 12v w/ key ON?

Rear O2 sensor does not affect A/F mixture so will not cause poor running conditions. Kinda sounds like you have a vacuum leak. If the CEL is on have the codes scanned again and post them here. Need the PXXXX number not the definitions.

Just do the whole kit. Why not replace it all while you have access? Order an exedy kit from eBay and have it by the end of the week.

Subarus O2 sensor setup isn't any different than any other manufacturer of the time. They pretty much all worked that way. Even now car makers use one sensor per bank to adjust mixture. For the most part any sensor that's behind the cats is going to be for checking catalyst efficiency. Some newer cars use A/F ratio sensors behind the first cat, which can play a small part in mixture adjustment, but don't generally cause drive ability problems like a front sensor would if they go bad.

I've heard that header wrap will hold moisture and dirt against the pipes and rust them out. That might be something to look into if it's going to cause bigger problems than it fixes.

Nice score! The muffler noise seems common on the older EJ Subarus. I think there must be some holes that rust out on the baffles inside the muffler that cause it. My auto wagon did it, and I've heard several other soobs around here making the same noise. Doesn't seem to be specific to any certain model. Never heard of a 4k fuel cut on these. Might just need some tune-up love. Filters and such. Check all the usual vacuum hoses and intake/breather/pcv tubes.

I hope you grabbed that starter! OE Subaru units aren't exactly easy to find. Not in my neck of the woods at least. I usually see the cheapo reman junk starters and alternators from the parts stores in the JY cars. If I find Subaru OE it usually is 15 - 20 years old.

It can be difficult to hear a pump run. Have you verified that no fuel is being pumped? Either with a pressure gauge or by sticking the supply line into a bottle. No, usually means the polarity is reversed, or it could mean you are testing incorrectly (meter on the wrong setting or the circuit can't be tested in such manner). If the wire diagram is right you are testing the red/yellow wire for the modulator, which feeds back to the ECU. That is probably ECU reference. Would need a pinout of the ECU to be sure though, but that's how it looks in the diagram. Blk/wht wire going into the relay is 12V from fuse 16 in the dash panel. Green/blk is ground through the ECU. If the relay clicks w/key ON the ECU is grounding it, you should then have 12V output on the Blue wire which goes to the pump. I don't know where the fuel pump modulator is, but it controls ground for the pump. At the pump: W/key ON you should have 12V at the pump on the Blue wire, and should see continuity to ground on the black wire. There is a resistor inline straight to ground so resistance may be high, but should still see cont. to ground w/ key OFF. Key ON should show low resistance Cont. to ground if the Modulator is working properly.

Oil in exhaust pumping out of turbo makes big white smoke. No big white smoke, means no oil or little oil in exhaust. There are reasons that boost may not build, the ECU could even be preventing it. But, with the oil level low it's probably sludged whatever oil is in the turbo and it won't be long before it does go completely. Do oil analysis or drain and check for metal in the pan and filter. More than likely, rebuild time.

Ohhhhhh good. Seems like a lot of those links on BF are broken now. Let me check, I know I have 99 foz, I think I have 98 as well but it may not be complete.

Seems kind of odd. It wasnt just bent on the end? Trans dipsticks are usually pretty flimsy and get bent when people try to cram them back in the tube. Check the bustedfingermotorsports.com forums. I don't have a link handy but I know they have the 98 Foz FSM in the downloads section.

Might try a can of seafoam in the intake. It could also help to spray the idle control valve out really well with some intake cleaner. Carb cleaner doesn't work on FI intakes as well as it works on a carburetor. It just doesn't cut through the carbon/sludge buildup as well. Use Throttle body and Air intake cleaner if you can find it.

Are you sure it isn't getting fuel? Generally you'll have 3-4 wires at the sender and the two largest ones will be power and ground for the pump.

No prob man, hope you get it all straightened out!

Left sprocket has teeth for the cam position sensor to read. Right sprocket does not. No point in changing it if it's no different than the one you take off. It is a good idea to remove it and replace the cam seal while you have the timing components out of the way.

There's plenty more "fluff" where it came from, if the end part fell off don't worry about it. 1.2v is a very high reading for an O2 sensor. That would either mean the mixture is way too rich, or the sensor is busticated. It's not going to affect the MAF. None of the sensors communicate with each other.

opposedforces.com 26151AC110 These have some sort of valve stuck in the middle of them, otherwise you could just replace it with a section of 3/8" vacuum hose.

No you shouldn't have. Now the ECU thinks your foot is on the pedal all the time. But hopefully you didn't adjust it far and you can set it right back where it was. You'll want to. TPS is expensive because they don't often fail, and when they do you can get them cheap at a junkyard. But it has to be adjusted properly so the ECU knows when the throttle is closed.

"Circuit" refers to the wiring circuit from the ECU to the sensor and back. Chances are the MAF is just bad. The wiring for the MAF goes straight from the ECU to the MAF, no connectors in the middle, so wiring problems are unlikey, except in the case where a mouse or other furry critter has made dinner out of it. The wire with the "fluff" coming out of the insulation is the shielded signal wire. It's normal. Rear O2 heater code, could be the rear O2 sensor is damaged. They don't go bad very often, but occasionally something gets kicked up (rock) or wedged (stick) between the pipe/ heat shield/ floor pan what have you and can damage the sensor. The wiring could also be loose or there could be bad connections in the harness connectors to the sensor. There is one connector about a foot from the sensor, then another on the extension harness where it joins the main harness on top/beside of the bellhousing, passenger side where all the other connectors are. Should be grey IIRC, 3 or 4 wire plug.

Looks like the wire to the knock sensor. That would not cause a no start condition. What are we working on?

Compression looks a bit low but is probably fine. What are PCSV and VCSV? Can you hook up a diagnostic scanner to this setup? I kinda wonder what the ECT sensor says. Might double check that and make sure it's plugged in all the way. Kind of a PITA to get to under the intake with all the wire harness and hoses in the way.

Brown coolant is never a good sign. Typically means the cooling system was filled with straight tap water at some point in the past which has caused the iron parts of the system to rust. Thermostat is in the black outlet housing on the bottom of the water pump. Get a thermostat from a dealer to avoid more problems related to that. I'd suggest removing the thermostat and doing a chemical flush of the cooling system to try to remove some of the buildup in the system. When refilling with a new thermostat in place fill the ENGINE first through the upper hose. Once the engine is full, put the hose in place on the radiator and fill the radiator the rest of the way with coolant. To prevent further corrosion buy Subaru blue coolant. It's usually not much more than the parts store stuff. Mix it 50/50 with distilled water.