Fairtax4me

It is maddening. That's why a lot of people turn to the O2 cheater. That's not an entirely legal option for a shop though.

I think a Subaru cap is only like $10 or $12. Parts store cap is what... $8? Might as well get the real thing. Knowing Subaru cooling systems and their penchant for pickiness...

Intake tube and PCV/breather hoses. All attached correctly and none broken/cracked. Vacuum hoses. Idle valve stuck. EGR valve stuck open. Dunno if a 90 would have EGR.

Clips are dealer only. Should only be a few $ and should always be in stock since they get replaced with every clutch job. Number 8 in the diagram, yes. Pilot bearing is included with the clutch kit, and should be replaced with the rest of the clutch components regardless of condition. Think about how long it's expected to last, 100k - 150k miles, and if you don't replace it, will it last another 150k until the new clutch wears out?

I would stick with the intake that originally came in your car. It's easy to swap, and then you KNOW it will work. Plus it's much easier to swap an intake on an engine stand/ on the bench, than to swap while it's in the car.

Replace the radiator cap. If coolant is pushing out of the reservoir it is either boiling, over-pressured, or over-filled. 2 of those can be caused by a bad radiator cap.

Probably the release bearing. With the engine running you can push the top of the release fork back (away from the engine) lightly, this will seat the release bearing against the pressure plate. If the noise stops, release bearing is bad. Pressing the clutch pedal lightly will have the same effect. If you have to depress the clutch pedal all the way before the noise stops, then it's an internal bearing.

Excessive as it sounds, 181+/- a few Ft Lbs is the FSM spec for the bushing to frame bolts, and has been since the dawn of the EJ cars. I've never torqued them to that on any of my cars. Maybe I should. :-p

Indy-pendent. Hope they machined the heads, otherwise it could all be for naught.

Torque spec on the knock sensor is something like only 12 ft lbs iirc. Not worth using a torque wrench unless it is a very accurate low scale wrench. A turn of the wrist once the bolt seats is really all it takes. There are only 6 wires at the OBD2 diagnostic connector on the early Subarus. Nothing strange about that. It's possible the reader you got does not support the protocol used on the early models, but it's hard to say. I think it should be ISO 9141-2. I'm not sure if the AU spec cars had the same.

Yeah that's pretty much the way to do it. Only trouble is its a beeiotch to get a socket on that nut on the end unless the control arm is pulled down from the floor pan.

The bushing to frame bolts are big but 180 ft lbs seems excessive. Also, the reason for marking the bushing is that it needs to be installed so the bushing is not twisted while the car is sitting at ride height.

They're just not doing a good job of explaining the issue. A wobbly crankshaft pulley is a pretty common problem, and it could mean that the timing is off. Being off by a small amount will cause inconsistencies in the cam and crankshaft position sensor signals, which the ECU reads to determine fuel and spark timing. That's one possibility. Another is that it could just be a bad knock sensor or temp sensor. Temp sensor is usually pretty obvious if you look at the readout on a diagnostic scanner, but the knock sensor can be bad and cause all sorts of trouble and a scanner might not show that. Timing is fairly easy to check, just have to remove the belt covers. The knock sensor is easy to check with a simple visual inspection. You have to remove it from the engine to get a good look at it but that only takes a minute. Check out my knock sensor 101 thread for the nitty gritty on inspecting/ replacing that. You can get new ones on eBay cheap that work just fine.

Most people just disable the Awd by putting a fuse in the FWD fuse holder and remove the rear section of the driveshaft. For a swap like you're talking about I have heard of people just covering the output shaft. There is no need to remove any internal parts though, the automatics drive the front wheels all the time and just vary power to the rear with a set of clutches. I suppose if you wanted to shed some weight you could remove the transfer clutches, but it's not really necessary for the trans to operate.

Ever replaced the knock sensor? Did you just slap a new TPS on it and go or did you adjust it the way the FSM says to do? If you don't have the FSM you can get it in several places online. O2 sensor code could be a clue, even if it's for the rear sensor. ECU looks for a certain signal range on the rear sensor and it has to stay fairly steady. If the signal strays out of range the ECU may set a code for the sensor. This could be caused by an exhaust leak, a vacuum leak, a screwy fuel injector, a sticking valve, lots of things. Much easier to check/replace the knock sensor first.

If you haven't driven one you should. They're actually really fun! People think they feel slow, but that's only because the engine never has to spin over ~4000 rpm. The manual mode doesn't deliver quite the same feel as a normal automagic, but you get 6 "gears" to run through and they make great use of the 2.5 powerband.

Ignition switch is broken. The Inhibitor switch (park/neutral switch) competes the circuit from the start contact in the ignition switch, to the starter solenoid, when the shifter is in Park or Neutral. Move the shifter to any drive gear and the starter can not engage. Ignition switch should be fairly easy to replace, IIRC there is only one screw holding it on. Remove the screws from the bottom of the steering column trim (should be 4 or 5 IIRC), then wiggle/push/tug the two halves apart to expose the goods inside. Ignition switch is on the left side of the column and has several large wires soldered onto it. One screw holds it to the column, remove that and the switch will pull straight out. then you get to follow the wires down the column and find the harness plug to unhook. Might have to cut some electrical tape/zip ties along the way. This is what you'll end up with http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_ignition-switch-bwd-intermotor_10014289-p?searchTerm=ignition+switch# If you're ambitious you can take the old one apart and see what broke, and post some pictures of it.

That's the starter interlock relay in the dash buzzing because the clutch safety switch is making poor contact. The clutch safety switch grounds the pull coil of the relay. Has nothing to do with the key. Be kind to your lock cylinder because the cylinder is only a lock and has no electric components. None at all. The lock turns a rod that operates the ignition switch, which is on the other side of the steering column. There's nothing wrong with the ignition switch. There are two cures for this. One is to either replace or bypass the clutch safety switch, which seems to be the primary contributor to the problem. The second is to replace the relay, which does not often go bad. Most of the time, you just need to push a little harder on the clutch pedal during starting.

Call a dealer with your vin and ask for a vehicle master inquiry. A VMI should have it.

What Shawn said. Don't bother with retorquing bolts. You have oil leaks, fix them properly rather than trying to cover them up with stop leak. The separator plate leak is an affliction to every Subaru engine. It drops down the back of the block and right into the middle of the y-pipe. It requires pulling the engine or dropping the transmission to fix but isn't all that hard to do if you have a basic set of tools and some ingenuity. Check out beergarage.com for a walk through and pics of the separator plate repair. Oh and get the idea of swapping to a 2.5 out of your head, if anything they're less reliable because of head gasket and rod bearing failures. The 2.2 in that car is one letter short of bullet proof. Change the oil every 3000 miles, fix the oil leaks, and you're golden. Might want to look into changing the timing belt and idlers of that hasn't been done, but that's the only major maintenance item the 2.2 ever really needs.

Speed sensor is driven by the output shaft of the trans, has nothing to do with bands/clutches. I have a 95 legacy with electric speedometer, but there could have been cables on very early models. I would expect yours to be electric.

Jumpy speedometer is a loose connection or bad speed sensor. Fairly say to check wiring, easy to change with a short 17mm open end wrench. Hesitation under load could just be old plugs and wires. When was the last time it got a tune up? Plugs wires filters? Transmission fluid. Level correct? Clean red? Not burnt smell? When was the last time that was changed? The 4eat has a tendancy to shift rough, not much you can do about it, thats just the way they are. But fluid changes can smooth it out some. It can be made worse by a bad speed sensor. Also, welcome to the board! If you put a useful location in your profile, you may find there are other members of the board near you who can help in various ways.

<---- Need one of these to get that mixture ignited! Glad to hear it's running better. And yeah O2 sensors are hard to find on these in a junkyard. Most yards cut the cats off, and the sensors, being attached to the cats, end up in the refiners smelter right along with them.

Rockauto. Bosal 256023. $6.59. Usps 1st class $2.02. Total shipped $8.61 The other one is in a UK warehouse. Shipping cost from the UK = $$ edit: Subaru dealer $12 Probably get it for around $8.50 if you pull their hair.

Stop leak additives for oil are a waste of time. Higher viscosity oil can sometimes help slow a leak, but the only real fix is to replace the orings and seals that are leaking. Keep an eye on fluid levels and it should be fine. Steering leaks at the steering rack are usually the small o rings inside the fittings on the lines. Those can usually be matched up at an auto parts store. The lines can be difficult to access with the rack still in the car though. Again, keep an eye on the fluid level.