Fairtax4me

#928 Viton metric O ring. I'd really like to see some pics of how this whole setup works. I see there were some in the SOB thread but the links are dead. SOB :-p

You can test the diaphragm of the EGR valve with a vacuum pump. Sometimes ports in the valve will clog, sometimes it's the passages/tubing leading to the valve that clog. Most of the time it can be cleaned with a solvent and a small bottle brush or pipe cleaner (the metal kind)

I'd love to find that out as well. I do know the step on a 96 EJ22 flywheel is 0.005", according to my local machinist. So little you could barely tell it was there. (might as well not be :-p ) I've searched the FSMs multiple times and haven't yet found a spec for flywheel thickness. Haven't found the step spec. either.

Some flywheels are supposed to have a small step where the disc rides. It's usually a step up, so if yours is worn and there is a step down you probably want to have it resurfaced. If there isn't any noticeable wear or step then you can get away with going over it really well with sand paper or emery cloth.

There are a few O rings that go between the block halves for coolant/ oil passages. I'd suggest getting those. The crank may be fine, look it over yourself before taking it to the shop. If the bearing surfaces look smooth and clean you can probably just size it and order bearings to fit. But if it needs polishing I wouldn't expect it to be more than $75 - $100. Look into ACL bearings. GD and CCR both recommend them, so they must be good.

Front and rear Diffs are always open regardless of transfer case position. What changes between high and lo is the transfer gear, which is completely separate from the diffs. There were transmissions that had a center diff lock, but that doesn't affect front/rear diffs. Since it moves in 4wd, that mostly rules out a transmission issue. It could still be a front differential problem, but it's most likely an axle.

As far as I know it should be the other way around. I don't know how that would get reversed though unless someone has been moving wires around in the door. Is just one window affected or all 4?

I don't see anything wrong with repacking them. If they will come apart go for it.

Two or three times usually. Depends on how much you have to take off. The flywheel was resurfaced at the time of the first clutch replacement?

Refrigerant itself doesn't have a smell that I'm aware of, but I've never tried to smell it (I'd rather not die). The Oil used in the system can have a rather pungent odor though. If you wipe the substance with your finger, does it feel oily? Is it green, or does it appear green in sunlight?

They will line up again after about 81 revolutions... I think. Or 162 revolutions. Either way, the belt moves 24 teeth when the crank sprocket turns one revolution. Another revolution of the crank makes 48 teeth, which brings the cams around one full revolution. 243 teeth (IIRC) on the SOHC timing belt, means it takes several revolutions of the engine before the belt comes around 1 full revolution. Align the belt with the NOTCHES on the sprockets. After the belt is in place, spin the crank 630 degrees (90 degrees shy of 2 full turns) to bring the engine to TDC #1. All 3 Arrows should point straight up. It's easy to tell if one is off. Do NOT use the arrows to SET the belt. If you line up the arrows the cams won't stay still, you'll never get it set properly. Use arrows to CHECK timing ONLY at TDC. Notches for SETTING, Arrows for CHECKING.

You can put the 2.5 heads on the 2.2 block, but I think the drop in compression means a big loss of power. I'd go find a good 2.2 out of a 95 Legacy and drop it in. Rebuild the 2.5 block later, or just rebuild it now and get it done with if you have the $$. You can do it yourself. Split the block, take the crank to a machine shop and have it checked/ polished, order appropriate sized bearings and slap it all back together. Could even take the block down and have it decked to make sure you have a nice flat gasket surface.

Rust? Sucked up any water lately? Doubtful. The intake gets crudded up with oil vapor from the breather system, and carbon from the EGR if it has it. The oil vapor tends to turn into ultra sticky/waxy sludge. Much like tar, or molasses... in Antarctica... in August. :-p Uneasily cleaned, and solvents usually just smear it around and settle somewhere else. Seafoam does a decent job at getting it loosened up some, but it doesn't get it all. Temporarily it works just fine for lots of problems, but ultimately a good cleaning of the intake with a solvent and brush is what it takes to get all the build up out. Then you get all kinds of extra power and smooth idle, so long as the buildup hasn't damaged vital parts.

Ok. So we can figure from 2006 up to 2009? at least for the 10mm oil pump. The size "XXmm" referring to the width of the pump rotors?

Do it anyway? (i mean swap wires not bash it with a wrench. Although that works for Red Green, maybe it's worth a shot? :-p ) Only thing I can think of, is the ECU is pulsing the wrong injectors, or is firing the wrong plugs, or the cam timing is off. I was working on a SBC350 and got it all put back together, with new heads, new cam/lifters, intake manifold and carburetor. It would spin over fine for about half a rev, then it would slow down, kick, spin backwards and spit out of the carb. Only after doing this several times did I get a HUGE backfire out of the exhaust, then a smoke trail from between the header collector where it blew the gasket out. Kinda surprised the cops didn't show up on that one. Anyway, figured out after about 15 minutes of screwing around that the distributor was 180 off. See if it'll run with the injectors unplugged, and some starting fluid sprayed in the intake. That might help narrow it down to fuel or ignition. I literally just opened the 95 FSM right now to look at control system wiring to compare with 97. I don't see any differences in any of the 3 connectors. Only differences are at the ECU end.

I would guess 3/16, or whatever is closest in metric size. Take a section, cut it in the middle (where it's not stretched out from being around a fitting for the past 13 years), then match that size up to one in the parts store.

Swap fuel injector wires front to back. Fuel sprays at the wrong time, fuel is ignited at TDC on the exhaust stroke, causes excess pressure in the cylinder when the intake valves open.

Other way around. The two fronts should be 12mmx1.5 thread. Rears are 10mmx1.5. I think. Either way, the front two bolts should be the larger of the lot. If you used smaller ones... your whole transmission cross member could be falling off.

The lock nut on the end of the pinion shaft backed off? Could have a seized thrust bearing that spun it off?

What year/model for EJ255 oil pump? Is this the STi "high volume" pump?

Subaru OWNZ Hummer! :headbang: Watch the other 2 videos the H2 can't do jack in that little bit of snow. Not that the driver has anything to do with that...

Hard shifting (due to lack of power) and low power/misfire could be due to improper cam timing. Double check timing marks on all cams. Unplug the harness connectors, Spray them out with electronics cleaner and reconnect them, they could be loose or contacts could be dirty. Also check the main ground for the ECU where it connects to the intake manifold. It's either right on top by the ignition coil or over on the drivers side rear down low on the number 4 intake runner flange.

A few more XV videos. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1buwBtLYoc&feature=related

Did you replace the control arm bushing yourself? Did you get the nut on the back TIGHT? Did you check the front bushing? Ball joints you might feel in the floor because of how the control arm is mounted. You might also check the bolts for the transmission cross member, make sure they're tight. And check the bolts on the pitch mount as well. You might be able to grab the rack boots and spin them to where they should be. If not cut the zip ties off and get a hose pick under the small end and spray them with silicone grease. That should help it twist around.

If you put it in the gas it won't help any. The TGVs are upstream of the injectors and never see fuel. It could be just a fluke. I'd still seafoam the intake though, just for kicks.