Fairtax4me

Check ball joints and tie rod ends. The inners go bad pretty quick if the rack boots are split.

I've knowingly driven on tires far worse than that. Just keep it inflated properly, and make sure that spare is inflated. Also make sure you have a jack AND a lug wrench. I had a flat recently where I had the first, but not the second.

DBW? What year is this thing?! I saw 06 in your profile, I thought they were still cable then?

Booster line is a little too big IMO, I use a 1/8" ID hose attached to one of the nipples on top near the throttle body. I use a section that's about 2 feet long so I can dip it into the bottle a little at a time. Prop the throttle open a hair with a screw driver and hold it at about 1500 - 2000 rpm then let it SLOWLY suck up about half the can. Shut the engine off for a few minutes then restart and enjoy the smoke show. Just stay out of the boost until most of the crud burns off. Do this when your neighbors house is downwind (the one you don't like). :-p

Probably have boost, it just can't get through the TGVs. P2012 Subaru Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Low Bank 2 P2006 Subaru Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 1 P2007 Subaru Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed Bank 2 I'd try some seafoam. Then remove the TGV assemblies and clean them if that doesn't work.

One thing I'll say about Camry (even though I like the Accord better) It has an incredibly smooth ride. And as far as I know Toyota fixed the door handle problem, so you should be able to get in and out of the car for a very long time. And it will still be worth a fortune when you decide to trade it in in 5-6 years. I know that's three things, either way it's a good buy.

Knock sensor is easy to replace and makes a big difference in the way the engine runs. They go bad quite often can cause all sort of trouble including misfires.

The boot creates a seal around the plug well in the head. Put some silicone grease around the top lip of the boot where it fits into the head. That'll let it slip into the hole easier. Is there any way to describe that without it sounding dirty? :-p

1.8 should have the big IAC sticking out by the #3 intake runner right? I unplug the MAF, pull the hose off the IAC and start the engine. (unplugging the MAF makes it run Failsafe mode so it will actually run with the big hose unhooked) Hold the throttle open a bit and spray the hell out of the IAC valve with Intake + Throttle Body cleaner. If it smokes out the tail pipe you dun good. :-p

The fact that it goes away after resetting the ECU leads to a sensor issue I think. There are some mechanical issues that can be covered up by the ECU making adjustments, but I think you would have something obviously wrong like compression or cam timing. Is the misfire code always for #4? No other cylinders? Have you ever had a code for the #4 fuel injector circuit? You say "new plugs and wires", does that mean new plugs when the engine was built, or new plugs have been installed while troubleshooting the problem? How does the number 4 spark plug look compared to the others? How do they look as a whole? (powdery white, even tan color, or black/sooty?)

My sister bought her Hyundai from Bobb Dunn. Not relative to discussion at all, but I was a a bit more drawn in when I saw that it was filmed in Greensboro. Very well presented review overall. Lots of technical data too. Didn't know the FA20 was 12.5:1 CR. Could have re-edited some of the tongue slips though. Like you, I'm not entirely impressed by the car itself. I'm no fan of the interior, and I think the exterior needs more um... hood scoop. :-p A more throaty exhaust note could go a long way too. I haven't seen one i person yet though, so I won't pass final judgement just... yet, but I can tell by looking at it that the material of that interior is something I would not be able to live with after paying close to $30G for the car. Maybe I'm just spoiled from driving Mercedes Benz's over the past 6 years. The technical aspects of the car are pretty astounding though. It has a lower COG than a Porsche 911, Mazda Rx-8, just about any other sports car out there really, with the exception of some high end Italian cars maybe. You don't have to have the biggest most powerful engine on the block if you can hang a hairpin at 100 mph.

Good ole corrosion! Hope you greased the hell out of that new sensor in case you ever have to replace that. I was going to suggest, since you don't have any CEL codes, that maybe the IAC is sticky. A seafoam treatment may help, and it's always fun to watch. :-p

I don't remember having much trouble getting the clip out. Putting it back was the hard part, which was when I disconnected the cable at the bottom so I could pull the assembly further out of the dash. Needle nose pliers with good sharp teeth should be able to grab it. I use a small pick tool (like a dental pick) to get it pried up that first little bit, but that may not be necessary.

I get 0.914 V on pin 2 with no engine vacuum, when reconnected to engine vacuum it drops to 0.903. Vacuum Gauge shows close to 20" at idle. Still get no reading from the scanner. Tried wiggling wires, unplugged the ECU multiple times to try to clean the contacts, sprayed out the connect with electronics cleaner, and got no change. It's down to two things. Either the ECU is bad, or I have three bad MAP sensors.

The MAP sensor on these cars serves double duty as both Baro and MAP sensor. A solenoid inline with vacuum before the sensor switches the pressure source when the ECU tells it to. Only have a MAP value on the scanner. I hadn't though about checking voltage output from the sensor with the engine off. That should tell me that the sensor is responding to vacuum. Thanks for that idea! Yes checked continuity between the sensor and ECU. ECU isn't hard to get to though, just pull the carpet back and 4 screws to remove the cover plate.

I'm pretty sure it's just an E clip. Pry it loose with a small pick then grab it with needle nose pliers and put it somewhere that it won't get lost.

Check out Equus Innova scanners at Canobd2.com. You can get them for less than half of listed MSRP on Amazon. I got my 3130 model from amazon for $140 shipped. They have it for under $130 now. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KID31K/ref=asc_df_B000KID31K2062899?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B000KID31K&hvpos=1o3&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1234567890&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=

This is actually an all too common problem on lots of new cars. Two main reasons are cheap tires (whatever the manufacturer could get the best deal on that month), and sitting in one place for long periods of time causing the tires to flat spot. Generally minor flat spotting will go away after a few hundred miles. It may also be less noticeable once the tires are warmed up, say after the car has been driven on the highway for a few minutes. Sometimes the only solution is new tires. Either way, it's a brand new car, take it to the dealer and raise some stink about it. A re-balance may help, and that should be their first step.

I think it's actually easier to detach/reattach it from the vent flap under the passenger side dash than to get it hooked back to the climate control panel, just because there is more room under the dash. It's been a while since I have removed one of these, but I know it can be done one way or the other. :-p

Unfortunately, an all too common plight for this engine. You have classic symptoms of bad head gaskets. Multiple overheating cycles usually leads to rod bearing damage. If the temp needle has been to the red more than once, consider it a boat anchor now. Time for an engine swap or a complete rebuild.

Just stumbled across this while looking for another thread. Glad to hear you found the trouble!

Read the info about the fuel pump assembly in this thread: http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=133579 I don't know for sure which years this issue affects, but it seems to be fairly common, and it's easy to check.

I've heard the IAC make the ringing sound, I think it's normal. The engine harness end shouldn't be any different, but I do know that the ECUs have different pinouts in 95 96 and 97. Then 97 - 98 I think was the same. You're not using a 95 ECU on a 97 harness are you? Engine end of the harness is the same, its the ECU end that's different. Ok so you swapped the entire engine from the 97. Then swapped to a 95 intake? (Before It sounded like you just swapped OBD2 stuff onto a 92 engine.) Did you check/replace the timing belt and idler components before putting the engine in? Lines not arrows? Last of all... did you do a compression test yet? MY97 Ej22, unfortunately, is an interference engine. Valves will hit pistons if the timing belt breaks or is too far out of time. You can get away with being 1 or 2 teeth off, 3-4 off is probably pushing it. BTW I do see an unplugged connector in the last pic. Looks like its for the IAC? You plugged that in right? :-p (gotta aks)

Change the gear Oil. That's all you can do really. Some people recommend Redline 75w-90NS to help with slow synchros. But at $15 per quart it's $$. The transmission holds 3.5 quarts of oil. Standard 80w90 gear oil from the auto parts store shelf will work fine. To have made it to 360k, someone has taken care of that transmission. Without proper oil changes they don't often make it much past 200k.

But is it AWD? :-p There were a few rust bucket Justy's running around here a few years ago, but they all have vanished. Neat to see one in such good shape.