Fairtax4me

No way to flush Blue Devil out. It basically turns to an almost glass like substance that sticks to every part of the cooling system. The good thing is that it doesn't typically clog things up, like other gasket in a bottle products, because there aren't any chunks in it. But as far as I know there is no way to get it out without taking the parts to a radiator shop and having them acid/chem back flushed and agitated.

I think they're referring to euro spec parts with that listing. I can't say with any certainty that they would be the same. But I really can't imagine that they're any different. I've placed many orders with Rockauto over the last few years and my only gripe about them is shipping is fairly expensive and often slow, but for certain parts the savings they offer over local places is worth the wait.

You said head gasket, not head gasketS... Did you only replace one? Or did you replace both? What brand of gaskets did you use? Did you have the heads milled? How did you clean the block surface?

Looks great! Is that a giant DI sticker across the hood?

At the alignment shop now, hopefully it will go straight after they're done! It was pulling to the left a bit, which I think must have been camber related because I played with the toe a bunch and never could get rid of that. I got some bolts and put the blocks on the driveshaft carrier and that fixed the shuddering on acceleration in low gears, but I still have some kind of wobble that feels like its coming from the back of the car. I think one of my wheels may be bent. I'll try putting the old wheels on it and see if it goes away, otherwise I'll be poking around at the axles trying to figure something out.

P0107 Subaru Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO Sensor Low Input Check the vacuum hoses that run over to the MAP. It's on the passenger strut tower next to a little solenoid. Check the short hose between the solenoid and MAP and the longer hose from the solenoid to the intake. There may be a small white cylinder in the middle somewhere, that's a filter of some sort and Ive heard of those clogging. You can remove the filter if you think it may be clogged and it should be fine without it. But make sure the vacuum hoses are in good shape first.

Is this on the 2000 model in your profile? I believe that one should have the cone type valve that screws to the side of the TB. Those are way expensive and hard to find in junkyards. I had to replace one and ended up getting it off eBay for $75. Not as good a price as a junkyard part but the seller warranted it for 30 days. Has been working for a few months now with no problems but I understand this style IACV fails often.

This one is on the Legacy sitting in my driveway right now. The top edge is flush with the face of the head, bottom edge is about 1/8" in. This seal was installed by a shop that did a timing belt change on this engine about 1000 miles before the transmission bit the dust.

I suppose you could try it, but I would at least try to JB-Weld that section back on. JB is some tuff stuff when it's set. Clean everything really well, scuff the aluminum with very course grit sand paper, and put on two or three overlapping layers on both sides. I wouldn't try to lift the engine by that part when you put it back in the car, but the JB should hold it together well enough to run.

Yeah the megan mount moves, but you need lots of leverage to make it. I remember being able to lift the trans about 1/2" with a prybar on the old stock mount. I am still happy with the purchase. The mounts were affordable and even if they're not as good quality as a Subaru Group N mount, I think they're good enough for this old car. There's definitely a noticeable increase in NVH, but overall I think it just gives me a better feel of the car.

Somewhere along the line the top mounts on the rear struts changed, but I don't recall exactly when. This would have to be swapped if they are different, but otherwise they will fit just fine, though your ride height may be lower. Maybe I'm blind, did yOu ever say what kind of car this is?

So I guess that's part of the bellhousing? Did the engine fall off the lift and them break or did it break first?

Thanks man! I think it needs a Mudrat style bumper now and a big skid plate. Had to dremel out a small section on the steering shaft so the u joint would fit properly. It had been fine and then I had to swap the steering rack trying to fix a problem thats still there. Fixed two other problems though. Then the u joint shaft was binding, figured out it was jamming up because the input shaft on the new rack was just a hair longer than the old one. The bolts for the driveshaft lowering blocks were too short so I just flipped it over, now it's too low and it wobbles around all over the place. Gotta get some more bolts, try to fix that tomorrow. Then I can drag it up to the shop and get it aligned.

Kinda hard to say, I got the car driveable today and I think the power loss issue is gone. I couldn't give it too much, the driveshaft was wobbling around like a wet noodle under heavy throttle.

Remove the upper strut bolt, loosen the lower. Ifd the car has any age there will be pretty clear marks on the knuckle where the strut was. That gives just enough room to pull the inner axle cup off the stub shaft.

Most Subaru hoses are about 1/8" I.D. I usually buy about 4 - 6 feet at a time and can plumb an entire engine and have leftovers for the next one. Have done that 4 or 5 times now.

A combination of all of them. Just depends on what I'm looking for and who has it or can get it at a reasonable (to me) price. I do end up at the dealer about once e a month though it seems. Although I did just get my last two Subaru parts purchases from Autozone...

Update time! The lift is on! I have more pics but they're difficult to link to while on the mobile. Both rear struts and one of the fronts I had to persuade some sheet metal with my mini sledge so they would fit on, it was only an issue at full extension though. With the tires on the ground there is plenty of room. More to come later, probably tomorrow.

Not much progress on this so far, although I may have found the source of the running problem. I tried a different MAP, still the same reading. I just had the idea to bypass the PSS solenoid and see what it says, will try that tomorrow. Vacuum gauge read ~18in of vacuum at idle. Vacuum drops periodically when the throttle is opened but climbs quickly afterward and doesn't change enough to raise any eyebrows when the engine acts up. Anyway, I did get somewhat of a break today, tried to start the car after swapping the steering rack and it wouldn't run. CEL came on immediately, so I whipped out the scanner, got a P0100 MAF sensor code. Seemed strange for it to die, but I swapped it with the one I took off two days ago and still no change. Found a broken wire in the harness, one that I had soldered together several years ago while troubleshooting, of all things, a MAF sensor problem. Repaired the solder joint and the problem went away. Haven't driven the car yet because of an issue with the extended steering shaft from the lift not quite fitting properly. It seems the input shaft on the "new" rack is about 1/8" longer than the old one, and it was causing the u joints to bind. So when I get that dremeled out tomorrow I can drive it and see if the power loss issue has been solved.

It's probably yours. Subaru springs are known to break if they get rusty. It probably happened a while ago though, and having it on the lift at the shop just allowed the broken piece to fall out of the spring seat on the strut.

This has been an ongoing saga on my 96. Pretty much ever since I bought it it has had this code and I've tried several times to cure it, only to have it snicker and slap me in the face with that CEL. Now I have a somewhat serious running issue and I can't help but think it may be related. It feels like the car is running out of fuel. I give it some throttle and the engine just falls flat on its face, barely has enough power to get out of its own way. Then after a few seconds it picks up and carries on as if nothing were wrong, shift gears and the fun starts all over again. It does this more when cold, once it's warmed up it kinda goes away, but not completely. Never stalls, doesn't misfire, it just doesn't want to accelerate at low Rpm. When it gets wound up to about 4000 rpm it seems to go away. I've swapped MAF and Knock sensors with spares that I have tested and know are good. No change. Checked fuel pressure and get steady 28psi at idle, picks up to almost 40 when driving and never fluctuates, even when the engine is struggling. Checking various readings with my scanner, the only thing that stands out is the MAP, which seems happy to sit at 0.5 inhg constantly. I have two spare MAP sensors which I have swapped at other times in the past to try to cure the MAP code (never fixed it) and will swap one of them in today and see what the reading says with another sensor. I've also tested and swapped the PSS solenoid, which again made no difference. I will also hook up a vacuum gauge later today and see what, if anything, that tells me.

Outback sport springs are different enough to have their own part number. I don't recall if they are any taller but the spring rate may be different. Either way: 20380FA330 that's the part number opposedforces.com lists for OBS rear springs. Worn rear springs are pretty common on the Impreza and older Legacy models. The springs were kinda weak and wear out, especially if you carry lots of cargo on a regular basis. Most people use the butt spacers to bring the car back up to a normal height when it's loaded. Combine those with new rear springs and you should get a decent amount of lift.

I've had this lift kit for like a year and a half, maybe longer I can't remember, exactly. It has graced a storage closet with it's presence for quite some time, and it will finally get a chance to do some work. Of course that involves me doing all kinds of work, drilling out larger holes in some of the blocks, tracking down larger bolts for some of them. The front cross member bolts supplied with the kit were 3/8" x6". Looked like plain old hardware store grade 5 stuff. I went out and got 12mm 10.9 grade bolts to go in their place. Also had to get 14mm bolts for the transverse link bushings. The kit came with 12mm bolts there for some reason. The kit also came with blocks to lower the carrier bearing, and the bolts provided are too short by about 1/2". I think I'll just flip the carrier over instead of using the blocks there. Kit also came with a new pitch mount, which is about 3/4" too long. So I'm just going to elongate the elongated holes on the pitch mount bracket that bolts to the transmission. Anyway, mostly this came about because I ran something over and cut a huge hole in a tire rendering it unusable. I had a set of Outback size tires sitting waiting, so figured I would get them mounted, dig the Outback struts out of the shed and swap them in and get the whole shebang done all at once. Should be something like 4" of lift overall, 2" blocks, inch from the Ob struts, and an inch from the tires. A teaser pic, since I got the front done just before it started to get dark and decided to leave it at that.

The negative cable from the battery is bolted to the bell housing by the upper starter bolt. You had to remove it in order to get the starter off, look around the starter because it's probably hanging around there somewhere.