Fairtax4me

I imagine you've already though of it, but I'll ask anyway out of curiosity. Anyway to build a hybrid axle? Outer cv cup, outer joint, axle shaft, and inner joint from your car, inner cup and stub from the 4eat car? Possibly inner joint from the 4eat car if the EA joint won't fit in the 4eat cup?

11s, 12s, 13s, referring lbs of boost? You could be getting into an overboost condition, wastegate valve sticking, possibly a vacuum leak somewhere. Or the fuel pump isn't able to keep up anymore. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

Behind the headlights. I've only ever seen them on the passenger side, but there is a wire and mount on the drivers side for another horn.

What He said ^ Most of the ones I've seen have a label with the pinout. The larger of the two wires just goes to 12V. Some tap directly into the charge lead, later models it runs to the underhood fuse panel. Either way as long as it gets 12V while the key is ON. Can't help so much with the EA wiring. I thought there was a swap write-up about this in the Old gen forum?

What condition were the plugs in when you removed them? Dusty White? Dusty Black? Oily? Wet? 1+2 are on the same coil, so any ignition problem that effects both is likely the coil or igniter, and since you replaced the coil already... Bad fuel injectors possible, spark plug condition can indicate. Compression related issues, timing not likely, but valve lash could be too tight. Burned valves are common enough on that engine. Lash is easy to check with an angle feeler gauge.

Bad axles are typically aftermarket axles. OE Subaru axles don't have this problem unless they're completely worn out, which is hard to do, even with no grease in the cv joints. It's getting harder and harder to find OE subaru axles on these cars in junkyards, but I'd look there first for a few. Even if they have split boots, re-grease them and they're good to go. Or order some from MWE. http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/ Marshall only rebuilds OE Subaru axles, and does a fantastic job. Pricey, but well worth it when you need the quality of OE without the price tag of new dealer parts.

Nothing to be worried about. Unless you purposefully try to set off the airbag, it's not going to pop. Unhook battery is always a good place to start. Be sure the steering wheel is centered before disconnecting power though. Look around on the back of the wheel there is a hole or two on either side at around 9 and 3 o'clock. Remove the screws you see in there, they are probably either Allen or Torx head. (don't recall exactly) Once those are out, pull the airbag module out from the wheel. The airbag harness connector probably has a lock tab that has to slide over before the release tab can be pressed. Unhook and set that off to the side. Then the large nut in the center of the wheel can be loosened. Some wheels will simply slip off, others you will need a puller, or some strength. If you decide to go the strength route, thread the nut back onto the steering shaft at least the width of the nut so when the wheel pops loose it doesn't frisbee or re-arrange your facial anatomy. Steering wheel pullers are cheap to rent though.

Large amounts of oil burning will smoke white. When a turbo goes bad it smokes because it's pouring oil straight into the exhaust. Get enough oil in the cylinder and it won't all burn, it gets spit out into the exhaust, then burns off white as it moves down the pipes and through the cats.

Search for Inner tie rod/ tie rod - inner. If you are trying to order online, I'd suggest emailing the dealer first to confirm which part number you need. From that listing I believe it is number 42.

If its just smoking under the hood it's just some oil on the pipes. It'll go away on its own after a drive or two. Lifters are bled out causing the ticking, that'll go away as well after being driven a time or two.

On a 97? There's no cable. Legacy went digital in 95.

Speed sensor on the trans just drives the speedometer in the cluster. There's a converter in the cluster that cuts the signal in half and then sends it to the ECU. I would suspect that since you say the speedo needle never moves. Just out of curiosity though, did you turn the cruise off and see if the reading still changes the same way?

I can see it in the video. Looks like someone welded an aftermarket cat in and they cut/welded the bracket onto the side of the new cat. It's there, but it ain't pretty. The stuff after that is all cut/weld as well. The resonator looks like a cheap glasspack from the auto parts store down the street.

No reason to replace unless they're damaged. Just clean the threads and dip them in clean engine oil before installing.

Ej22, good. Put a set of valve cover gaskets on it. Make sure the rocker shaft bolts are tight. The ticking will go away after running for 20 - 30 minutes. Hopefully the smoking out the tailpipe will go away. If not it could need head gaskets. Not unheard of for an EJ22. But like Suzam said, smoking could be due to oil burning. Check the PCV valve. Oil level is correct?

Well, I hope it was simple. Suppose someone else had the same problem and they might have found this thread while looking for a fix. Guess they're just SOL.

It's a hanger for the exhaust. There's a bracket on the side of the rear cat that bolts to that. The one on your car looks broken. You should get that fixed. Without that bracket the cat and Y pipe will move independently of the engine and trans and can break at the flanges.

Valve cover gasket leak. Possible bad head gasket. Year and engine?

Unless you really want to take it apart and put an input seal in it, just put the thing in. That little bit of seepage will just keep the rust away. I actually wiped grease on all the exposed steel parts of the trans I put in my sedan. What's that saying about a pound of cure?

Shift shaft seal fits in from the outside. It helps to have the tailhousing out of the way but I wouldn't worry about that one unless you plan to split the case and do the input seal as well. Use anaerobic on the case sections. Ultra grey for the top access plate.

Researching the brands you buy beforehand will often get you a better quality part. I just bought a set of Megan motor and transmission mounts because I read some reviews about them and they appear to be the same quality as Subaru OE parts, just under a different name. One review said they had a set installed by Cobb Tuning, and the installer noted that the Megan parts even had the same identification numbers stamped in them as Subaru OE parts.

Turning when? While moving? fast/slow? Turning the wheel while sitting still? Have you looked under the car to see if any cv boots are split? Made sure all the lug nuts are tight?

The cheapest cheap part you will be replacing again in 6-8 months. If I want a part that will last until the rest of the car rusts away I buy Moog. Usually twice the cost of the less expensive parts but worth it when you don't have to replace them again in a year, and have to pay for another alignment. For Ball joints that's not necessary, but after replacing steering parts an alignment is just cheap insurance against worn out tires.

Try searching/asking at Legacy Central. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ It's dedicated to the first gen legacy, and has a whole subforum just for turbo stuff.

$10.68 free shipping. US supplier too, so no 3 week wait for Hong Kong parts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-KNOCK-SENSOR-22060-AA061-LEGACY-OUTBACK-IMPREZA-/330484107950?fits=Make:Subaru&hash=item4cf2634aae&item=330484107950&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_9000wt_936