Fairtax4me

0 ohms means it probably shorted internally. It takes a lot to pull those wire connectors apart, odds are good it was damaged.

You got some fun ones! Knock sensor 101 : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120610 P0106 MAP Sensor Range/Performance Generally a loose vacuum hose. The MAP sensor is on the passenger strut tower. Little black square with a wire connector sticking off of it. A solenoid right next to it. Two or three hoses there depending on which evap emissions setup the car has. P1400 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Low Input The tank pressure control solenoid is between the fuel tank and the passenger frame rail towards the front of the tank. Space is tight, but with some luck you can at least see if the wiring is damaged. More than likely if the car is rusty underneath there is corrosion inside the connector.

Canobd2.com P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio This one might take some work. I would almost recommend taking it to a dealer. A scanner that can read sensor outputs will help here, since this can be a throttle position sensor or Speed sensor issue. This can also just be wiring or a poor connection somewhere in the harness to the ECU/TCU.

Incorrect. When aligned for timing, the crankshaft sits 45 degrees off TDC. Also the passenger side cam is positioned in a way that none of the valve springs are pressing on the rockers. Without the spring pressure of the rocker arms the cam will spin quite easily. If you were to spin the drivers cam 180 degrees there is a spot where it will feel the same.

Have you checked the coolant level? It could just be low. The DOHC 2.5 is famous though. Look for bubbles in the coolant with the engine running.

That thing looks sweet! I have been looking for good deals on 215/75/15 tires. I'm really glad to finally see someone using that size so I can tell about what it will look like on my car when I finally get my lift put on. I have everything I need except tires. I have a nice set of 205 70 15 snow tires but I think they'll look too small once I get it lifted.

Oil in the intake piping is generally coming through the breather hoses. These are the hoses that connect to the valve covers and run in some convoluted manner all over the engine, but ultimately connect to the intake piping somewhere between the air filter and the turbo. The idea is that the breather hoses pull clean air into the crankcase, in order that oil vapors will be carried out (via intake vacuum) into the intake manifold via the PCV valve. When under boost two things happen. 1. The PCV valve closes, otherwise boost would just go straight into the crankcase. 2. Boost pressure in the cylinders causes compression and exhaust gases to blow by the piston rings and into the crank case. The blow-by has to have somewhere to go, so it ends up going out through the breather hoses (which would normally be the entrance) and in the process carrying the oil vapor (that would normally be pulled through the PCV valve) with it. The vapor collects inside the intake tubing and intercooler, eventually getting burned off a little at a time when it finally gets sucked into the engine, but a fair amount of oil can build up in the intake system through this manner. This can also happen if the PCV valve fails to close completely. Some people use "catch cans" to try to collect the oil rather than let it go into the intake. It's a sound practice and works very well if the catch can is designed properly. It means re-routing some of the breather hoses and checking and emptying the can every few weeks, but it does help with overall performance and running of the engine. Spark plugs foul less often, and it could likely help your less-than-great combustion efficiency. With that kind of mileage a bit of ring wear is to be expected, especially on a turbo engine, and that will contribute to oil consumption and blowby. Even a small amount of oil getting past the rings or sucked into the engine through the breather system will affect combustion.

Depends on what type of material it is. Rubbing Alcohol takes off tree sap pretty well. You can try it on duct tape but I think a general adhesive remover would work better. You can buy paint safe adhesive removers from auto parts stores in the section with all the car wash soap and wax and detailing stuff. As well as it will work, don't use acetone. Especially near plastics like tail light lenses.

Oil analysis tells all. That could mean worn or stuck rings. What kind of oil do you use? How many miles on this beast?

Mice like to make nests in the box where the cabin filter is. I've heard moth balls work, just makes the car smell, but won't do any damage. I would try to avoid putting them ON the engine as they may melt, but they can be placed/taped in other areas under the hood. Behind the headlights, on top of the strut towers, etc. A small vacuum leak usually will not make a noticeable difference in the way the engine runs. The ECU can usually alter air and fuel mixture enough to dampen the effects of a small leak.

"Less than great combustion efficiency"- Sounds like it just needs a tuneup and some Fuel system cleaner. Did you find this out via an emissions inspection?

Canobd2.com is what I use for looking up codes. Has manufacturer codes for almost every make sold in the US. P1518 Starter switch circuit. This is a wire that runs from the ignition to the ECU, it just tells the ECU when the key has turned to engage the starter. This is going to be a wiring issue. P0442 and P0456 are both for small Evap emission leak. With those codes, I would start looking for a nest and evidence of mouse damage. They can be crafty, don't overlook the cabin air filter box.

Looks good! What did you get the push bar from?

I have a large set of tekton impact sockets. Cheap, only paid $100 for the whole set, 3/8 drive standard and deep sockets 10mm - 19mm, 1/2 drive standard and deep 10mm to 32mm. A few sizes skip, but I haven't needed any that we're in between yet. Lifetime warranty too. They used to be under Michigan industrial tools label.

NSS only affects starting, has no effect on an already running engine. Trying to determine if the engine is actually stalling due to an electrical/sensor issue. Generally if the car is still rolling in gear the engine will continue turning so everything still works. Assuming the CEL actually works (it should turn on with key ON, then go out after a few seconds), it wil come on if the engine stalls, the battery light should come on as well. Generally a loss of all power means the engine is no longer running, fuel and or spark have been cut completely, if the transmission is still in gear and the car is rolling, the engine is still spinning because of mechanical force, but not on it's own power. Next time it does it hold the clutch down, see what the tachometer does. If it drops straight to 0 it's because the engine has stalled. You'll get an oil pressure light, a battery light, and hopefully a CEL.

When you lose power no lights on the dash come on?

It backfired. Your distributor could be 180 off.

71 PSI. I've done pressure checks on a few of these and they can make well over 80 psi at 1500 rpm when the oil is cold. Ever watched the hydraulics on a car hauler when it's 20 degrees out? They barely move. When it's 90 degrees they move so fast the cars damn near get thrown off. The pump is making just as much pressure, but the rams don't move because the fluid can't get to them fast enough.

Did you check the switch? I suppose that could have gone bad. Verify that you get 5v from pin 82 with key ON, and 5v at the switch.

Take the old one. Go to Lowes. They don't often need to be replaced.

Get your soobs away from that Jag! When it caches on fire you don't want them going up in flames with it! Diggin the WRX wheels on that Legacy! Both of those cars look very clean!

Lack of maintenance kills those transmissions. Transmission fluid is very susceptible to damage from high temperature. I've heard from several techs that for every 10 degrees that ATF is overheated it shortens the protective life of the fluid by as much as 10k miles. So if you changed the fluid today, went out and overheated that fluid by 30 degrees trying to tow something or haul a bunch of people and gear up a mountain to go camping, you need to change the fluid before you drive back down. Might as well have sand and water in the trans. ATF changes are very important, and rarely get done on time with those vans. We had one when I was growing up. A 93 with 75k that put a rod through the block 3 weeks after my father bought it in 98. Brand new 98 engine and original transmission took that van to 300k because he made sure it got serviced. What finally killed it was the ABS control module went out and the parts were more than the van was worth. But it served 8 years of driving around Virginia Beach, Norfolk, and Chesapeake every day for his jewelry business.

I don't buy that for a minute. Proper oil weight has everything to do with the climate the engine is operated in. Even says in the manual which oil to use, which is better suited for the climate. 10w oil in sub freezing climate will run like molasses, oil pressure spikes in the pump and it all gets bled off through the pressure bypass valve. The bearings and cams starve while the pump runs triple duty. Lifters won't bleed out because they might as well be full of glue. 30w oil in a 100+ degree climate has the opposite effect. Easy to move but so thin it cooks and degrades because of the heat. The pump then can't make enough pressure to get oil all the way around the bearing before it drips out.

There was no factory switch for that as far as I know, but some people add them to get the AWD to lock on demand.

Still vital for them to all be there. The ECU uses the tabs to determine the angle and speed of the crankshaft in order to time spark properly. This is making the ECU think the crankshaft is changing speed halfway through each revolution. This will trigger incorrect spark timing, and misfire codes.