Fairtax4me

The idle control valves seem to be kinda screwy on those. I'd think either that is gunked up with carbon, or there is a vacuum leak of some kind. Possibly a split or disconnected hose somewhere. Did you notice if the Check Engine Light comes on when the key is turned to ON? It should come on for a few second then go out.

On the older cars the trim panel is just held on by screws. Remove the screws and it falls right off the panel. Alot of newer stuff has plastic tabs that they melt to hold panels on. Not sure if Subaru did it this way or not. Opposedforces isnt any help either.

If the shaft will slide forward and back the main roller bearing on the input shaft is bad. There should be no perceptible play fore/aft.

Rear sensor should not affect the way the car runs. It's just a check sensor for the cats, and has no bearing on fuel mixture. I'll have to go look at the wire diagram in the FSM. Apparently I can't read since I keep mixing up how many wires and what colors. :-p OK Two white wires on the sensor. Those are the heater wires. Polarity should not matter for those, as long as they get hooked up to the harness. These will connect to pins 1 & 2 in the harness plug, which will be the white/blue and yellow/red wires. One black wire. This is the signal wire, this connects to the black wire in the harness, on pin 4 of the connector. The black wire is shielded and there is a short section near the plug where the shield moves into it's own wire so it can go through the connector. If you look back up the harness a bit there should be a grey or black insulation that both of those wires go into. Double check that the wiring for the front sensor is OK, one of the pins might have pulled loose in the connector.

Check the harness plugs on top of the bellhousing. Pull them apart, spray some electronics cleaner in them, plug and unplug a few times and spray again then let them dry before plugging back in and starting the car.

Go to the local parts store and buy the Anaerobic sealer they have on the shelf. You don't need the high temp stuff for this. They'll have either Permatex or Loktite brand, either will work just fine.

Was the crankshaft pulley bolt TIGHT? I mean really tight. If you didn't see the breaker bar flex while you were loosening it then it wasn't tight enough, and was probably wobbling around. Check the notch in the pulley for the key, and check the key on the crankshaft. Does either have rounded corners, gouges?

4wd or 2wd? If 4wd could be a U-joint. Could be the carrier bearing on the driveshaft. A bad cv axle could cause this. Wheel bearing, ball joint or tie rod end maybe.

At least 2 hours. Probably more like 3. I've done it a few times and always seem to run into something that holds up the process for an extra half hour. Comparing the two next to each other should take a fair amount of time. Make sure your ducks are in a basket before you put the new trans in. You have to work on swapping mounts/ brackets/ linkage while the trans is on the floor. It's a PITA with it under the car.

I sealed an entire transmission with anaerobic and never had even a damp spot between any of the parts. That's the type of sealing surface it was designed for. Machined flat surfaces with very small clearances between.

Oh ok, I thought the wires had pulled out of the harness end. Removed incorrect info.

I use anaerobic sealer on the oil pump because it doesn't dry. If too much RTV is applied it gets squeezed out when the oil pump bolts are tightened. The peices can break off and log the oil passages to the rocker assemblies in the heads. In some cases even clog the camshaft oil passages and cause the cam to seize. I use ultra grey on oil pans and separator plates. I have had good luck with ultra black on GM and Ford timing covers, and on certain oil pan gaskets.

Duty solenoid valve is likely the purge valve for the evap system, that has nothing to do with EGR. Strange that they would list it that way. This is a typical EGR valve. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQSubaruQQForesterQQOES_GenuineQQEGR_ValveQQ1999QQW0133-1653096.html?apwcid=P1135867996W43b3f85c7ab9e&apwidabXqOw1=&sa=X&ei=gXqlT8_mDuSX6QGR4p2mBA&ved=0CFkQ9gIwAg

The rear sensor has a short harness section the runs up the side of the transmission and plugs into the main harness on top of the bell housing. Worst comes to worst you can go get that section from a junkyard car. Haynes manuals are not the best for wiring info. They often show wire diagrams for only one year, and the cora often change between years. Get the FSM for your car here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

You'll want a half inch drive model, and a deep 19mm socket. Most auto parts stores seem to carry somewhat decent cheap torque wrenches in the $75 range, and they'll work fine for torquing lug nuts. Sears Craftsman torque wrenches are better quality than the parts store jobs but are around $125- $150. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they sell one for $20. I'm not sure how much I would trust the seriously cheapo HF wrench but it may work well enough just for lug nuts.

Check engine light is probably gonna be the rear oxygen sensor. The wiring is not exposed, but the sensor could have hit the bottom of the floor pan. Front sensor is not likely damaged unless the Y pipe is bent up and the cat got crushed. If there is damage to the cat housing, it should be replaced. Any pieces of the honeycomb sections in the cat that might have broken off will clog it and will cause running trouble with the engine. Second checking oil pressure with a gauge. I would still remove the oil pan and make damn sure the pickup tube isn't damaged.

The big chunk in the front (if that's similar to what you found), is a lock tab for one of the synchro collars. It holds the collar in place when it's between gears so it doesn't drag on the synchros.

I'd say 24" under the rockers should be enough to get the transmission under there. The dogbone mount bracket, and release lever stick up the most, but are easily removable if they stick up too high. I've picked several of these up by the starter hole, I don't think it's going anywhere. [offtopic] Looking at drain plug magnets, you guys will get a kick out of this one. :-p I can't figure out where the little piece of chewed up sheet metal looking stuff at the back would have come from. Gonna take that sucker apart in a few days and see the rest of the carnage.

There is supposed to be a rubber seal on the transmission under the fitting where the cable screws in. My guess is it either has deteriorated, or someone removed it at some point. I have no idea where you would get a new one, but RTV might seal it up well enough to keep oil from pumping up through the cable. Did you check the level of the front differential?

Just looks like an over-pressure safety valve. It's a one way valve that lets pressure out of the system if it gets too high, rather than letting something explode. Usually those are one time use, once it has opened it has to be replaced. An AC shop will be able to tell.

Yup, kinda figured hauling one that far would be $$$$. I've got the D/R fever as well, and was looking into an EA trans swap. But I love the way the car handles with AWD. I think going to FWD would make it not quite as fun on the gravel roads around here. And 4WD might be even worse. I'd also like to build a frankie at some point and the EA box might not hold up to it. I can get an EA box for $125 though, plus some gas and a little time at the junkyard. Flywheel clutch and adapter kit will be $$$, but the tradeoff may be worth it. Hope your swap goes well! I'll be keeping an eye out for updates!

Have you ever replaced the Front O2sensor? The rear has nothing to do with fuel mixture, it's there to merely to check the efficiency of the cats. The front sensor does all the adjusting work. I'd try replacing that before gutting the cats. If the cats are clogged, you'll lose power in the high rpm range first.

The device would be called a torque wrench. Wheel nut torque may differ on the newer models, but everything from 1990 til at least 2004 is 65 ft-lbs. If you place a jack correctly under the car, you can lift both wheels on one side at a time. Be sure to use wheel chocks and the parking brake. Side jack stands under the jack points on the rocker panels.

Are they full time AWD or selectable 2wd/awd like the 4wd boxes here? Can't imagine it's cheap to get one from all the way across the pond, how much are you paying to ship that thing? If you don't mind me asking.

Probably the throw out bearing is worn out. How many miles on this clutch? Can you tell if the noise is actually coming from the pedal area or have you listened under the hood to see if it's coming from the transmission?