Fairtax4me

From what I've found most FWD manual trans had 3.454 FDR.

Crank sensor is usually all or nothing, meaning if it doesn't work the engine doesn't even start. Plus you usually get a code for it. Intermittent stumbling is either fuel related, bad MAF sensor or a sticky IAC.

At 86k I wouldn't worry about any seals. New gear oil and ride.

Have you noticed any mice under the hood? There's a lot going on but it can be narrowed down. First things first, No more seafoam in the oil. It does no good for a poor running condition, just waters down the oil. Vacuum leaks will do you no good and are likely cause for your MAP and IAC codes. The EGR code due to your new engine not having EGR? If it has it the solenoid is unplugged or bad, or possibly there's a broken vacuum hose to the valve. P0420 is related to the misfire, if it has been misfiring for a long time it's likely the cat is damaged at this point and will need to be "repaired" or replaced. P0183 is for the fuel temperature sensor, this is inside the trunk I believe mounted near the right rear strut tower. Or maybe that's the tank pressure sensor, I don't remember off hand. Get a copy of the FSM for your car. There are several links around here to pages where you can get it.

What GD said, looks like just left overs from casting. That "piston" is the seal for the pump. I've seen some Paraut water pumps on Ebay. Never heard of them before except on this board. I've used several Aisin pumps, all have been very well made pumps.

$200 is wayyyy too much for a clutch kit. $129 with Free shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-OE-OEM-DAIKIN-CLUTCH-PRO-KIT-SET-SUBARU-IMPREZA-LEGACY-OUTBACK-1-8L-2-2L-/160648315011?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3ALegacy&hash=item256762c083&vxp=mtr#ht_3048wt_936 Exedy Diakin makes OE clutches for Subaru.

Besides any number of electrical parts, the most common cause for poor driveability after a water incident is wet spark plugs. Pull the wires out and see if there is any water in the plug wells. Also check the air filter. It could have got wet. If it did, pull the wheel well liner down from the passenger side under the bumper and remove the water separator box, and make sure it isn't full of water. There are drain holes in it, but they can become clogged so any water that gets in there would not drain out.

Gotta love it when you can spend a few dollars more (funny, I'm watching For a Few Dollars More) and get something else practically for free.

Get a new thermostat from Subaru, not a cheapo aftermarket, replace all the hoses, and refill with 50/50. The thermostat isn't opening all the way and likely has too high of a temperature rating. The heater core is part of the bypass circuit which keeps hot coolant flowing to the thermostat. This is because the thermostat is on the inlet side of the water pump, meaning COLD coolant (in a relative sense) is flowing across the thermostat at all times. This will cause the thermostat to close, generally only in cold weather but it can happen other times as well, particularly when the thermostat is clogged or partially jammed. The flow through the bypass circuit keeps the thermostat open by keeping warm coolant flowing over it. This keeps it from closing and blocking the flow of coolant through the block. Obviously blocked flow means the coolant in the block will overheat.

Is that an automagic or manual trans? The engine will tilt forward when the trans is unbolted. I hook a ratchet strap on the AC compressor bracket and the other end to the bottom of the Dog bone mount on the firewall. I only crank it back far enough to hold the engine just about level. Too far back and one of the brackets on the trans (don't remember which one exactly) will hit the firewall before the trans gets lined up with the studs on the engine bell housing.

Well, Glad you got it fixed! That's always good to hear.

I don't think it has so much to do with holding the sensor in place as it does keeping it at the proper angle. If it leans forward or back it may react differently.

No it's a code reader. It will display and CEL codes that are stored in the ECU, but it can not diagnose a problem with the fuel pump. If the CEL is on, you need to get the codes read or buy a scanner for yourself and find out what they are. It may help, but it won't tell you if a coil or fuel pump is the cause. the Check Engine Light is there for emissions, and that's all. Fuel pump failure does not mean the lines go completely empty. The only time the lines go empty is when the tank tuns dry. The problem may be that it just can't produce enough pressure to keep the engine running. And this can happen intermittently. When the key is turned to start the pump primes the fuel lines and the pressure builds to normal during the half second or so that the engine is cranking. Then the pump may run indefinitely or for only a second before it slows and the pressure starts to drop again. When pressure gets low the injectors do not spray properly, fuel doesn't burn completely, which causes the stumbling and loss of power. Eventually the pressure gets low enough that the fuel doesn't "spray" anymore, it just kinda dribbles out, then the engine dies. All depends on how the pump wants to act. But the point is, the pump is still running, just not as well as it should be. If the pump is cut off for a second it may return to normal operation.

This is normal when the ECU loses the signal from the MAF. You can restart the engine after unplugging the MAF and see how it runs. Should be kinda rough and stumbly, but it will run, and should continue to do so without stalling. CELs for misfires don't set as easily as you might think. I've driven for several days with a slight miss before I've had a code finally set.

Fuel pump is possible. Just went through something similar with a friends car. Occasionally it would just cut off while driving. If idling it would stumble for a few seconds hen cut off. Wait a few minutes and it would start and run fine for a few miles then do it all over again. replaced the fuel pump and it hasn't done it in two weeks or so. Kind took a gamble since we couldn't get it to duplicate the problem when we had a pressure gauge hooked up to it, but it seems to have fixed it. If you can get your hands on a fuel pressure gauge make sure the pump is making the right pressure when this is happening. If it drops suddenly or is low the pump could be bad.

I lost a post! I typed up a reply to this last night and I guess I never hit submit. Anyway, assuming all the hoses are in the correct places, there are no vacuum leaks or anything like that, a bad MAF sounds likely. You made sure the clamps on the intake tube are tight? Common thing and easy to overlook, and will cause all kinds of trouble. The IAC code could be due to a bad neutral switch. Could also just be a symptom of the running problem. You can get a copy of the FSM for your car here: http://bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=18

Turned in to where? Too long ago to call them and say, "Hey I need to swap a few things off that old trans real quick to make this one work"? Knock the roll pins out of the knuckle on the selector shaft and the knuckle will pull off. Possibly with some persuasion because it's probably rusted on.

Take some pictures of the back of the headlights. If it's just an HID "bulb" kit it may be fairly simple. Remove the "bulbs" and the cheapo ballasts (more than likely the source of the problem), and splice in new pigtails to plug into the new bulbs. You can usually get pigtails to fit most bulbs at an auto parts store. Worst case, Ebay. Search for a pigtail for the type of bulb you need. But if he hacked up the back part of the light housings you may need to buy new headlight assemblies.

It's the same idea as honing the cylinder bores, just for the outside of the pistons.

I'm gonna guess its the Yaw? sensor for the ABS.

Legacy Outback or Impreza Outback Sport? Because it looks like the Legacy clockspring should be the same from 96 - 98. The part number for the clock spring is a 10 digit number. 98261AC000 That's what Opposedforces.com lists for your car. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/98261AC000/ They call it a roll connector. If you're trying to swap the whole combination switch assembly those could be slightly different. I'm not exactly sure of all the differences but Intermittent wipers are one thing that comes to mind. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/electronic/switch_combination/illustration_2/

I fill it with oil first also. Keeps it from ticking so much on the first start.

A manual trans from any 90-99 Ej engine, except turbos, will bolt in and work. I wanna say the automagic Impreza had 4.11 FDR , a transmission out of a Legacy Outback or GT will have the 4.11 front diff you need to match. Whatever car you get the trans from, be sure to get the shifter, pedals and clutch cable/hydraulics.

Yeah there's no DRL on a 96. There is a short of some kind or someone did some rewiring of their own. Have you tried pulling fuses when the ignition is on to see if the lights go out?

It's a Dayco belt. That's how they are. That Crucial sticker on the radiator support caught my eye. Quick search, it looks like it was a performance company that did porting and polishing, custom exhuast, etc. Appears they've gone by the wayside several years ago. There are some clear braided hoses routed around that appear to be for a "Catch Can". Rode hard and put up wet sums that one up well.