Fairtax4me

Search Car-part.com for an Automagic Transmission. I don't know anyone near there but I'm sure someone here does. Get a second opinion on the noise from a mechanic before buying/replacing parts.

Did he fill the engine through the upper radiator hose? The only good way to refill the coolant is to fill the engine through the upper hose before filling the radiator. Or after, either way, coolant doesn't flow from the radiator into the engine very well if you just fill the radiator. You end up with about half the amount of coolant in the system that there should be. When I fill, I expect to put in about a gallon and a half. If it takes less than that I think somethings wrong.

I've never heard of a bad crank or cam sensor keeping the fuel pump from running. The fact that it primes with they key on says that the main components of the pump power circuit are working, and should continue working once the engine is started. I believe there is another problem keeping the engine from continuing to run. This could be related to sensors or possibly a large air leak into the intake behind the MAF sensor. Incorrect belt timing is also a possibility.

Something screwy with the link then. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128615&highlight=Info+rebuild Maybe thatnll work!

I don't think I've seen a full write up dedicated to just swapping the center diff. This is a thread from a few months back about a bad center diff in a Forester. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...mission+squeal It just has a few pictures of the transfer section of the trans. Then you can try to familiarize yourself with the FSM here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

One of the rods decided it was time to bust out of the joint! You gonna split that block and take a few pics of the escapee and internal carnage?

Maybe someone put it there just to mess with you. Take it apart and find out what broke.

Aside from mechanical failures, the center diff could just be worn out. It's easy to replace though. Can be done fairly easily with the transmission in the car. Pull off the tailshaft housing and check things out.

:lol: It was worth pausing Justified for 3 minutes to read this one! You're a lucky man to have such an understanding wife!

Hopefully someone who knows the H6 like the back of their hand will chime in. It looks like the same washer they use in the bottom of the power steering pump reservoir on the 4 cyl cars. Kinda figured it might have something to do with oil, but I don't know that engine very well. (at all)

Spring breakage is an all too common thing these days, but it's mostly due to rust rather than mileage or age. The rear springs on these do tend to wear out and sag when they get old. If the back of the car looks like it's low, even when there's nothing in it, chances are the springs need to be replaced. Worn springs can lead to early failure of new struts. But I think making the call on replacement would depend on how long you plan to keep the car and certainly what your budget is like. New springs aren't a necessity, you can probably pick up a set of used springs cheap and install those instead. If you;re really strapped for cash go the junkyard route. Get a set of struts w/ springs from a junk car. Most U pull it places seem to charge only about 30 - 40 for a whole strut assembly. Find some that look clean and aren't leaking and chances are they'll be fine. I put a junkyard set on my sedan about 2 years ago and they are still holding up great. "We had to sit through all that crap just so you could show us the Shrink Ray?!?!?!" [/shake]

Kinda looks like a grommet for a valve cover bolt.

I'm really only going by what I've read here. The newer Felpro head gaskets are of MLS design that everyone recommends using, but I haven't read anything good about Felpro gaskets in the 2.5 engines. For the older 2.2 the Felpro gasket is the exact same part as what you would buy at a dealer, even has the FHI logo stamped in it. I've used Felpro gaskets on plenty of engines and have had mixed results. But I don't think I've ever had a set of their head gaskets go bad as fast as some of the claims I've read. I don't think they should work any differently than a dealer gasket as long as the surfaces are prepped properly. But they do have a bad rap among the more experienced Subaru gurus here, I think I'll stick to their advice rather than try to find out the hard way for once. :-p Thermostat on these is picky and I've seen that first hand. The cheapo replacements from the pars stores just don;t work that well. You have to get one from a dealer or get the Exactstat version from Stant. There's a part number in the sticky at the top of the forum page. Highly recommended by people who work on these cars all the time.

What kind of thermostat did he put in it? Felpro head gaskets are often frowned upon by the Subaru community for use in the 2.5 engines. They are known to fail immediately or within a very short time after installing. Dealer seems to be the only source for reliable gaskets. Also it's is vitally important that the heads be resurfaced before installing new gaskets.

Yes to the first, no to the second. It's a miracle that plastic separator isn't leaking. Replace that, and pick up the $2 O-ring that goes under the wrist pin access cover while you're at the dealer. Those like to leak too. 806931020 <--- Part number! You do need new screws for the new steel plate, most dealers sell these with the plate as a kit.

It's just "held on" with a circlip. With the axle shaft clamped in a vice you tap the inner race with a brass drift or block of wood and it will pop right off, you do have to be careful that it doesn't fly off and fall on the floor though. A video showing how it's done.

Check the color of the plugs after a few thousand miles. Nice tan color is what you want. Black carbonny plugs are too cold, powdery white is too hot. Does it ping? If it don't, don't mess wit it. Cooler plugs are more likely to foul, especially when starting, then you get misfires and pulling plugs just to clean them up is a PITA.

I need to build a tire rack. I have three sets of wheels, a spare set of tires, and will have two sets of tires on wheels that all need to go somewhere. I'm gonna have to build a second shed for all of my car parts to go in! I'd love to tear down the current shed and build a larger one, but I would have to get permits and probably spend 3-5 grand to make it the way I want. Too much money when you're half broke and unemployed.

How do you know it won't be long enough? I've coaxed extra length from wires/cables before by moving their mounting points and rerouting them. I'd even go so far as to drill a new hole in the firewall to move where the cable comes through if needed. Perhaps it can be run inside the firewall and run out much lower down, like on top of the tunnel?

I noticed there were some differences between bumper covers on my 95 and 96. The 95 that upper beam was a bit different, and there were fewer holes in the cover. Not sure if the holes all line up between covers but it should be kept in mind when you go get another bumper beam. Make sure you get one with the right number of holes.

I did not know this. But the only press in types I've done had rubber or metal seals on the bearing and there was no way to get more grease into them without prying out the seals. Which type of bearing grease do you use?

Double check the part number of the new ball joint. Also, you do have the pinch bolt entirely removed? It won't go anywhere with the bolt still in the knuckle. That's why it has the "valley" in the side of the ball joint case. Lift and air tools! 6 minute axle change! Also helps if you have a press type ball joint separator. Anyway. I've done it both ways. For the home mechanic doing it in the driveway without special tools the strut bolt is easier. But it is faster IMO if you can get the lower balljoint undone without damaging it. You also have more room to work the axle around. It's a trick getting the drivers side axle in and out with the ball joint attached.

Nope, coils got nothing to do with it. You have a bad connection either in the battery or in the cable at the battery. Do the battery posts move at all if you try to wiggle them? I had one break internally and it caused me all sorts of grief until it finally broke off entirely. Tried to take the cable off just to replace the end and the battery post came with it.

Just want to say thanks for the link to the list of D/R trans gears ratios! Any way to tell a turbo 5 speed from a non turbo 5 speed by looking at it? Spline count, clutch type (push/pull), anything that clearly sets them apart?

MWE rebuilds only original Subaru axles. Worn out original Subaru axles can be cleaned and repacked and still last twice as long as a brand new aftermarket replacement.