Fairtax4me

$42 on Amazon and free shipping! Friend of mine just picked up a set of NGK wires for his taurus on amazon for $13, and his mom is a prime subscriber so he got them shipped second day for free. They were half the price of the cheap wires at the parts store.

Shut up man don't tell everyone! J/K I'm no psychic, I had my own adventure with off-a-tooth-timing not too long ago. Racked my brain for three days trying to figure that out. I had checked the timing three times, and was absolutely sure it was right. One tooth on the drivers cam. Ran fine until the engine warmed up. Didn't feel down on power until I got the timing right and realized just how much more power it had with the new Delta cams vs the old stock ones. Once it was warm it started misfiring and I got codes for all 4 cylinders at random. Stupid timing belt.

Because of the amount of articulation of the outer joint during driving, the outer joint has 6 fairly large ball bearings housed in a case with very tight tolerances. This is to keep wear to a minimum so that vibration does not occur. The inner joint sees very little articulation during normal driving, but it has to be able to slide in/out as the suspension moves, so it is a different joint composed of only three large bearings with larger tolerances that are better suited for the type of movement it handles. The result is the inner joint is much easier to move by hand than the outer.

I remember it being played on the morning announcements my freshman year in high school, 1999.( damn thinking about that makes me feel old) We had closed circuit tv news and they would play that video about once a week. Where might I find some FSMs for these older cars? Any that are downloadable like for the EJs?

The fusbox can be somewhat uneasily rolled over, (the wire harnesses are tough to move) or at least lifted far enough to remove the lower cover and undo the nut that holds the cable.

Yep, valve covers are easily removable. No major engine parts that can be messed up. There are six bolts on each side, a ratcheting box end wrench might be handy. Clean the mating surfaces and fit the new gaskets into the grooves.

Sohc heads right? Off one tooth will do just what you describe. One tooth won't hurt anything. You need to be about 3-4 teeth off before bent valves become possible. If I had to guess its probably the passenger side. You get misfire codes pretty quick if the drivers side is off. You did get Roller Rocker cams right? No oil holes in the lobes? The flat tappet cams don't work with the roller rockers. Not sure if that would explain the noise.

I'm not sure of the actors name but s/he/it was made world famous I believe by this video with tune by the Buckwheat Boyz in the late 90's. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8MDN*********fT4

Some people don't care, but by burning off all that oil after it pours into the cylinders when you pull the plugs out, brand new spark plugs can get fouled and cause misfiring. Plus, like I said, you have NO idea what might be floating at the bottom ready to fall in and chew up the cylinder walls. You can get the Felpro Gasket set (does both sides and has all grommets for spark plug wells and bolts) at pretty much any parts store for $25- $30. As I understand Felpro makes the OE gaskets, the same ones you'll get at a dealer. Or you can go to a dealer and spend a bunch more money for the same thing, but get a Subaru sticker on the package. Pretty much everybody here on the forum who works on these regularly recommends ONLY using NGK brand or Subaru OE (dealer) spark plug wires for the 2.5 engines. They get the consensus vote for being the most reliable.

Checked all the wire connections twice? MAF sensor plugged in? ( I would expect there to be a code if not). I've always gone light on the oil with wet filters on cars that have a MAF sensor like these. It might not hurt to check and clean the MAF. How about vacuum hoses? Intake clamps tight? No hoses missing from the intake tube/airbox? Breather hoses all attached on the valve covers, block, PCV valve? Any cracks or splits in the tube or boots?

Valve cover gasket grommets. Common problem and is easily fixable with nothing more than a set of gaskets. I'd suggest buying new spark plug wires as well since the boots may be damaged. Oil will cause the silicone boots to expand and allow spark to arc to the block inside the spark plug well. This could very well be the cause of your misfire. Don't remove the plugs until you get the oil out. Soak the oil up with paper towels rolled up around a 3/8" drive socket extension or dowel rod. With it rolled up the paper towel will fit to the base of the spark plug easily and will soak up more of the oil. Then you can spray them out with brake cleaner and compressed air to remove the rest of the oil and any other foreign material (sand/dirt/grit) that might get into the cylinders. New spark plugs cant hurt either, but they can be cleaned off, regapped and put back in if they are not worn. Just unplug the wire harness connector from the coil pack. You'll get a bunch of P035X codes for a coil circuit malfunctions, but it won't hurt anything. Just erase the codes later. Unplugging injectors has the same effect and can be easier and more pleasant than unhooking spark plug wires. You can do that if they are easy to get to. I hear they are under the intake manifold and not easily accessible on the H6, but they are in easy reach on the 4 bangers. Sme deal. you'll probably get a bunch of Injector circuit codes but just erase them. No harm no foul!

Perhaps we should make sure the cable is attached properly first. It attaches to the transmission on the passenger side a few inches behind the gear oil dipstick. There is a short section that threads into the transmission case (maybe 6" long) and the cable attaches to that with a small metal clip to hold it in place.

Did you pull both heads? Never hurts to do both if you have to take one apart. Rechecked compression and leak down after the work?

You ended up with shoes for drum brakes. Make sure you specify Parking Brake shoes when you go back.

No ignition rotor on these. The "gold" thing is probably a rod and the "silver" piece is a chunk of the block. $1200 is way too much for a legacy wagon, if it were a running driving car with no major problems that would be a good deal. With a blown engine, and assuming the transmission is bad, at the very least the transfer clutch is shot which is about $500 in parts to fix, a car is nothing more than a boat anchor, it's worth it's price in scrap. If the car is mint otherwise with 4 new tires, good brakes, good struts and springs, and a new exhaust system, $500- $600 for an Outback. Any one of those things needs work, $300.

How much do they want for it? $500 it probably doesn't matter if the trans is dead. When you go look at it, pull the codes from the TCU (somewhere around here theres a tutorial on how to do it) and see what that says. CEL means nothing really. I would guess the trans issue might be a dead duty C solenoid.

Everyone has, but the drain plug is one of those glaringly obvious things that will destroy all of your hard work in 10 seconds. I forgot the drain plug once. Luckily I realized the oil was pouring right back out (into the drain pan that was about to overflow) after the third quart. Had to bum a ride to the parts store to get more oil though. A friend of mine forget to put oil in after draining and he fired it up and back down off the ramps. He did figure it out after a few seconds when the clattering didn't go away.

The hub grappler makes it easy for sure. How does the axle tool work?

I did see a thread where someone swapped transfer gears but it was from an EA to an EJ DR trans. It wasn't a simple swap. parts had to be welded and machined. That may not be true with EA to EA.

LOVE that sound! Had an eargasm! 7,500 rpm !

Check the wire harness near the connector, make sure there are no bare wires touching the body. If that checks out good, replace the module. I don't think I've ever read of one of these going bad, so a junkyard part is almost a guaranteed fix.

You might have to swap your seat belt latch's, but the seats will fit no prob.

Don't forget the oil. :-p

The diamond shaped plate on the left. It has an O ring under it that hardens to plastic just like all the others on these engines. Use an impact driver to get the screws out, they're in there pretty tight. Part number: 806931020 Its about $2 at the dealer. IF the rear main is leaking, DON'T remove it until you have a new one ready to put on. Make absolutely sure the new one gets installed to the EXACT same depth as the old one. Take pictures and measurements if you have to. Clean the crankshaft carefully to remove any crud on the end or under the area where the seal rides before trying to install the new seal. Lubricate the seal inside and out with plenty of fresh motor oil or assembly lube then install.

I thought Limp mode for the 4EAT was 3rd gear only and Locked into AWD? The TCU takes speed readings from the Dash cluster so if the speedometer is no working that could present an issue. Like Nipper said, check fuses and double check all connections that you might have had unhooked while doing the swap.