Fairtax4me

The rear differential free wheels most of the time anyway since the majority of driving load is placed on the front axles and differential. Play at the knuckle is likely a bad wheel bearing. If it has noticeable play the bearing is about to fail entirely and you will be left with a crooked wheel at the least. You need to investigate further and find the exact source of the play.

It will not light a bulb because the ECU switches ground for the solenoid. Power is constant with Key On. Evap solenoid testing is simple. Put the ECU in Test Mode by connecting the bright green plugs under the dash. Turn Key ON. Listen for solenoid to click. What is the exact code you were getting?

With the ABS module unplugged, check for continuity to ground from Fuse 18.

^ Why is the smiley figure hitting the dead horse in the nuts? Real random question. At some points along the line it looks like the Dual range trans reduction gear ratios changed. Some were 1:59 some were like 1:19 or something? When was/were the changes? Any way to tell from the outside which gear set it will have? (in case someone did a swap)

Glad you got it fixed!

You must be going to the wrong places or something. Half of these cars I see for sale on CL say "Two new tires" in the listing. I just cringe and click the Back button. Used tires are hit or miss. When I need cheap tires I head to a place about 30 minutes out in the sticks that will mount and balance 4 brand new ones for around $225.

Common problems associated with hard starting are a bad coolant temp sensor, gunked up Idle control valve, fouled spark plugs can also cause issues with cold starting. The Torque Converter Solenoid circuit code could just be an effect of the poor running condition. When was the last time it had a basic tune-up? Spark plugs, wires, fuel & air filters PCV valve. Any of those not done recently can contribute to problems. Hard starting after a fillup could be due to a leaking Evap Purge control Solenoid. This is easy to test. Find two bright Green plugs under the dash and connect them together. Turn the key to ON and this will put the ECU into Test Mode. It will cycle the fans, several relays, and the various solenoids for the Evap system. The Evap purge solenoid is under the intake runners on the passenger side of the engine. Unhook one of the hoses that leads to it and try to blow through it as it clicks. Airflow should stop completely, then resume, corresponding with the cycling of the solenoid. If airflow does NOT stop the Solenoid is bad.

You'll just have to remove the Roll pins that hold this dohickey on. Yours may not look exactly like that but they are all held on the transmission the same way by those two shiny pins. Remove the bolt to separate the linkage and work on those spring pins once the trans it out of the car. Soak it down good with PB/ Kroil/ whatever your favorite penetrating oil is.

I got a feeling it was something

Likely both are worn out. The springs are what holds the car up, so if it looks low the springs are definitely worn. If you regularly carry lots of people or heavy item in the cargo area (tools, parts, fire wood) look into a set of heavy duty springs. Saggy butt spacers are an option as well, but spacers only offer a small amount of lift usually 1/2" - 3/4", rather than increased load capacity and longer spring life that you'll get from heavy duty springs. Although, if you have ~150k miles on the current springs, a set of stock replacement springs will probably last until the car is ready for the dirt nap. Definitely get new struts with the new springs, at least for the back.

I always figured if practically every European car maker in the world trusts VDO to make their OE gauges they must be pretty good. I also think their gauges look better than most others on the market, but I don't get into all that flashy colorful blinged out stuff most other people like. http://www.vdo-gauges.com/

How does the vacuum gauge test for the cat work Jarl?

99 Ej25 could have been Phase 2 , but only if it was in a Forester. 96 - 99 Ej25 out of a Legacy will be phase 1. Basically, if SOHC it's phase 2, DOHC is phase 1. A phase 2 block will work just the same. There were some differences in stroke/piston height I forget which. Either way the piston on the phase 1 block sticks up past the end of the block at full stroke. On the phase 2 block it sits flush so compression might be a bit lower, but I'm not sure.

Check fuel pressure and check for plugged cats before condemning the engine. You don't want to spend money on a new engine and still have the same problem.

Someone not long ago had an oil leak through the block next to the oil pump. It was actually caused by pores in the block left over from the casting. It was an incredibly small hole, but it apparently fed into the oil pressure passage in the block. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=127446 Your issue might be something similar. I think you'll just have to get up close and personal with the leak to see exactly where it's occuring.

Ahh good, that puts it in the right price range then. 01 GT with a make-over for under $7 G's. Sounds like a pretty good deal to me.

Torque bind, no reverse, and delayed forward engagement, yeah I think you would be well suited to drop in a new trans at that point.

With proper antifreeze, Subaru or Peak long life I have heard is compatible as well, mixed with distilled water, any effects of the corrosion will be prolonged. There are some flushes in auto parts stores but I'm not sure how effective they will be at removing rust buildup. They will certainly not make it any worse though.

The EGR port in the head or intake manifold could be clogged. There are a few vacuum hoses that go to the EGR valve and BPT valve that controls it. Make sure those are all connected and not split or broken. The fuel fill issue is sometimes caused by a stuck vent valve on the filler tube.

The 00 Outback looks like the best deal to me. It has the stronger 251? engine, and will have the best resale value down the road. The 00 and 01 Legacys seem a bit overpriced, is the 01 a GT?

I managed to get 27 out of my 95 wagon automagic 2.2 on my latest highway trip. That's the best I've ever got out of that car. I live in the same type of area. Lots of hills, up and down and slowing for curves. I usually get around 22-23 mixed and high teens just in town.

Generally torque bind can be cured by replacing the Duty C solenoid tha controls line pressure to the transfer clutches. Do you not have reverse at all? If reverse is lost completely it's usually only a matter of time before the forward gears follow suit and stop working as well.

Yes that's due to mineral contamination and galvanic corrosion. Antifreeze has components in in that prevent transfer of electrons from aluminum to iron or whatever other metals there may be in the cooling system. Water from a tap is the worst possible substance you can add to the cooling system.

Dunno about the test plug but as Gloyale said earlier I don't think you're going to get anything if the fuse for the module keeps blowing the module will get no power for diagnostics. The Legacy models have two ABS modules, one driver module which is located on the pump housing, and a main control module under the radio in the dash. From what I remember the manual said pin number 4 on connector P13? Is the power from fuse 18 for the control module. The "P" wire harness is for the Power windows, which means it is inside the car. The module should be visible under the ash tray area at the bottom of the center console/ dash.