Fairtax4me

Pretty much any Impreza or Legacy except Outback or GT. Keep with the Base and L models and you're sure to find one. 95 - 99 L model Legacy MT will have the 3.9 final drive ratio you need. For more check the chart here for transmission codes that will work. You have the 5 speed push style clutch. http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.html You can even go all the way back to 1990 Legacy if you need to. Only difference is the neutral and reverse light switches need to be swapped and the speed sensor, but the transmission is the same otherwise.

Got a big floor jack? You don't even need to get it all the way out of the car, you just need to get the engine and trans separated far enough to get to the fork. Of course It would also be wise to replace the clutch while you have access to it. Assuming it hasn't been replaced recently. Depending on which way you want to go, you can lift the engine or lower the transmission. Either way is really just as easy/difficult, just depends on what you have available as far as jack/stands/ramps, or a lift. Get a new fork from a dealer (only about $30), and while you are there be absolutely sure to get new clips for the TOB as well. They look like half of a paper clip, but are vitally important. I can drop the trans out faster than I can lift the engine, but it is easier to work on the clutch components with the engine out of the car. The fork is easy to replace once you have access. It's just held on by another piece of metal that looks like a bent around paper clip, all you have to do is tug on it and it pops off of the pivot stud.

I don't see any movement. I think what you may be seeing is the uneven layer of rubber in the middle appears to be moving in/out as the pulley spins, and maybe that's tricking your eye into "seeing" something else moving. Just an illusion.

I feel your pain!

Stumper for sure. What about fuel pressure? I'm not sure if a stuck/ clogged pressure regulator would make it do that but if you have one to swap it only takes a few minutes. Maybe that combined with a massive intake manifold leak? I would think it would have to be the manifold base gaskets or the fuel rail O-rings if that were the case. At this point it wouldn't hurt to pull the manifold and check the gaskets. Still wondering if you ever got the TPS adjusted. The procedure for this style sensor looks much simpler than the later versions.

Yep, throw away the Chilton manual. Just kidding they are helpful, but wouldn't be my last stop for information. The FSM is so easily available for these cars, makes no sense to use anything else. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ head gaskets on the Ej22 CAN be done with the engine in the car, but it's a tight fit getting the heads in and out because the bolts can;t slide all the way out of the block. Pull the engine out if you can, makes it easier to work on and clean the block. Have the heads milled flat. Autozone carries Felpro head gaskets for $19.99 each. Cheapest price of anywhere that I've seen, and the Felpro is THE EXACT SAME gasket that you would get at a dealer. Even has the FHI swish logo stamped in it. Less than half the price. You don't need new head bolts but the old ones can generally benefit from being run through a die/ wire brushed to get any crud out of the threads. If you have a tap that's the right size chase the threads in the block as well. Dunk the bolts in fresh oil when reassembling. Follow the Torque spec for the head bolts in the FSM. Ask questions if you need to.

I don't know to be honest. I wire wheeled some rust off of the rims of some old 15" dayton fayette trailer wheels (4 lug with like a 9.5" spacing, kinda like the old school VW 5 lugs). They were at LEAST 40 years old and they had the "safety" bead. Not THE wheels but this is what they looked like

I don't know of anywhere that still allows leaded gas in cars (maybe Cuba?). AvGas has it, but you can't just drive up and pour that in the tank. I know what you mean about gas smelling cheap these days. We get the 10% ethanol stuff here and it smells like rotgut corn liquor.

If you have compressed air (~100 psi) you can hook it to each cylinder and watch the radiator overflow when the bubbles start coming out. I've done that a few times, most recently on my wagon.

That's BS because I bet they would mount 15x12" wheels with 33" tires on a Chevy pickup no questions asked. Trailer wheels are tough. Much tougher than alot of the steel wheels I see on cars these days. If you can get the right width I don't see why they wouldn't work just fine. Also agree that unless the wheels are ancient, there's almost no chance you'll find wheels without the inner "safety" beads these days.

That's a lot more complicated than I imagined it. I see why you said take the whole thing w/hubs. :-p Search Car-part.com for places near you and call around. You might have to go outside the box to get what you need.

Car food. Head gasket. My other option was a plugged bypass system, but it's too hot there for that to matter.

I would have replaced the rotor as well but if you need it done on the uber-cheep, just new pads will suffice. Never seen one fall out and wedge between the rotor and bracket that way, that must have been rubbing metal on metal for a while. You did the other side too right?

There may be some slight movement of the outer part, even if it's still good. Very slight though. This is ok ONLY if it's the OUTER part moving. The inner part should not have any noticeable movement. This video clearly shows the entire pulley moving. which is bad. Now, if the outer part moves a little, mark it with some white paint. Mark it all the way across both the inner and outer sections, that way you can see if the outer section is slipping.

If you can call a dealer with a VIN they can look it up.

Whats outside temperature? Does the heat work good? Like if you sat there long enough you'd literally cook good?

Cruise doesn't work when you have a misfire. New spark plugs and wires (NGK brand or OE Subaru) should fix that. If that car has the coil pack on each plug make sure they aren't swimming in oil because of bad valve cover seals. The brake light is a warning for several different problems, each one will have to be checked individually to determine the source. If the po hacked in some aftermarket hid kit, start by finding out where he ran the wires and disconnect all of them one at a time and see if the light goes away. It could also just be a sticky switch on the parking brake handle from someone spilling coke in the center console.

Car-part.com Are you in CT? These guys are in Milford. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/index.php The "Type D" mounts are tougher they used them on the WRX models and the 5 speed mount fits all of the 5 speed transmissions. They are also about half the price of the regular mount. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=2591

Is there a list somewhere (other than the FSM) that shows bore, stroke, rod length, that kinda thing, of all the different EJ engines?

According to cars101.com the scoop on the OB Sport model didn't start until 97, but the scoop hood is the same shape other than the scoop, still fits the same. Pretty sure the body didn't change until 02. So anything from 93 - 01 should fit. That should help expand your possibilities.

Like Ricearu said, this is backwards. Advanced ignition timing requires higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. The change in cam shaft position compared to crankshaft position with this type of mod is minimal, only 1 or 2 degrees if that, but should increase power slightly in the mid to high rpm range. It's interesting though. I may try it sometime with my project legacy and try to compare some numbers with my scanner; stock vs modded crank sprocket.

Should be. The Outback hood has a scoop but it still fits the same.

I'll have to wrangle up our local snap-on driver after I start school. At 55% off I could find a way to afford good tools. A nice looking toolbox indeed!

Davebugs lives in Pittsburgh, he knows the local places, but I don't know if hes up for doing any work on cars these day. You might get in touch with him and ask. He might even have a good engine, he had a bunch of Subaru parts and parts cars at one point, though he has been trying to sell everything off lately. You can also search on Car-part.com for an engine nearby.

I've run up some pretty steep mountain roads around me in my 96 sedan 5 speed. Some that look like a dried up small creek bed, except it was like a 30 degree incline. SJR sells lift kits for 2000+ model years as well.