Fairtax4me

I've just assumed this whole time that this is a non-turbo engine is that correct? I've seen up to 42 degrees of timing advance while driving my 96 Ej22, so 48 is probably in the ballpark for that engine. The USDM cars never got the high compression engines that they used in other markets. Engine tuning can vary quite a bit. I don't think most people use engine cleaners that often. A clean engine runs better though.

And one is missing in that picture! Apparently it's a common thing! There is supposed to be a washer on both sides of the center mount. They keep the rocker arms in place over the oil feel holes in the rocker shaft, and keep them from rubbing against the cylinder head and center support. The rocker shaft is incredibly easy to disassemble once removed from the head. Remove the lock bolt from either end (the one on top of the end support) and all the parts on the shaft will slide off. Lay them out in order so you can put them back in the proper places.

Had the same thing happen on my 95, except I noticed the washer was gone and then had to hunt it down. It broke the same way, clean split right down the middle, not sure why. I grabbed a few off a junkyard car and it's still working fine. Were any of yours stuck together? Mine looked like there were two washers stuck together when they were installed. I figured maybe that could have contributed to the break.

Starting issue could be the IAC or a failed engine temp sensor. Its telling the ecu the engine is warm so it doesn't get enough fuel to start properly. Simple things can help as well. Get new plugs and wires, new PCV valve, air and fuel filters. Check for split/broken vacuum hoses as well.

He posted that in September. :-p XV looks plasticky. Where's the steel push bumpers and rock rails?

It's only 2:30! And Family Guy's on. :-p

More specifically, Tumble Generator Valve. It's a set of valves on each intake port mounted between the intake manifold and cylinder head that close when the engine is cold. The purpose is to accelerate air flow just before entering the cylinders which helps the fuel mixture vaporize more readily. Its aimed solely at emissions reduction during warmup. They are supposed to open up as the engine warms up to operating temp. Thing is, they change airflow characteristics, so if/when they get gummed up and stuck they will alter the way air enters the cylinder when warm as well. I don't know if that would cause pinging though. Pretty easy to identify, they are enclosed in a separate housing right at the base of the intake manifold. Which brings up the idea of a vacuum leak again, as these provide an extra gasket surface which can fail and leak air into the manifold. Even small amounts can have a detrimental leaning effect on the fuel mixture, especially if it occurs on only one cylinder. Out of curiosity, what does the MAP reading say with the engine at idle? Also, how many miles are on this engine? Aauto or manual transmission? Does it have an EGR valve?

Hey man good to see you're still around! Adjustment I don't think so, but I've never dug into the mechanism to see for sure. I have the same problem on both my Legacys. None of the doors stay open on any kind of an incline so I figured thats just the way it is on these cars. Can't be too hard to replace. This can't be too helpful either. :-p

Heres to hoping. The only time I e ever had an engine redline all on its own was when the TPS went bad and at that I had to move the throttle before it would do it. If I let it idle it was fine, but the slightest touch on the gas pedal was enough to make it redline. Swapped TPS and it was cured, but any electronic component which fails properly (or unproperly) could cause the same reaction.

Does this engine have AVCS? I think that started in 05 but im not sure id the Impreza got it. I imagine it would give a code if the valve control was hanging up, but the solenoids are known to plug up with sludgy oil and cause problems. Another though could be a vacuum leak, or sticky tumble valves (if they had those in 05, again I'm not too sure what year those started). The Australian market cars might not have any of this stuff either I don't know.

Two people on this board are making headers for the single port engine now. Sube101 I know has them available, the other person (don't recall the username) was working on a set but I haven't seen if he has a finished product yet.

I'd be tempted to say knock sensor, but I'd hook up a scanner and watch the timing advance compared with knock sensor inputs while driving. Have you tried fuel system cleaners or a new fuel filter yet?

The 2.5 is not a very forgiving engine, even if it's run just a little hot there can be bearing damage, and with high mileage I wouldn't take a chance. Find a 2.2 out of a 95 Legacy and drop it in. Its the lowest cost way to get the car back on the road with the maximum amount of reliability.

I've seen that site and Ajusa.com referenced for good prices on KYB struts. KYB is the OEM supplier for Subaru. Their Excel-G line is basically a stock replacement.

Yeah with a cut harness just leave the illumination wires unhooked. Track down the ones in the dash and tape them off so they don't short against each other or something metal in the dash. DO NOT connect them.

I always just use a wire harness adapter that plugs into the factory harness. Never had any trouble. But if you have a high draw head unit it's smart to run a dedicated power line straight from the battery, With a fuse of course. And use the switched power thats already in the dash for turning on/off. Just to be clear, the power wires in the dash have nothing to do with the illumination module. The module uses separate wiring which cannot be connected to an aftermarket head unit. There are 4 illumination wires that go to the stock head unit, two of which are in a separate plug a few inches from the main harness plug. Two more which are the same colors in the main harness plug. They are on top of each other in the plug at one end (don't recall exactly which side).

If you have a 93 Impreza and own the FSM it's invaluable. I see the actual books selling for around $20 - $50 usually. Depends on condition and what kind of car it's for. I wouldn't mind having the set myself. I'd make you an offer but $$ is tight right now.

I'm still thinking burnt valve as well. The air hose you used for the compression test that threads into the spark plug hole, is that the same hose you used for the leak test? Reason I ask is the hoses used for compression checks can have a one way valve in them, usually on the end that threads into the cylinder, to let air from the cylinder flow into the hose, but not back out. If you used that hose for the leak test, no air would have made it into the cylinder.

Generally leak-down tests are done with shop air ~ 90-100 psi. Did you use an actual leak down tester or did you just hook up an air hose to the cylinder?

Kinda sounds like a bad driveshaft carrier bushing or a U joint.

The stupid little ground bracket is held on by the upper starter bolt. Take that out as well and make sure it gets cleaned under there. You might be losing power at the fuse panel. Where does your volt meter draw its power from?

Does the turbo make any boost at ~300 rpm?

You don't necessarily NEED a torque wrench, but it's a good idea to have one if you're doing a lot of work on the car. Although honestly, the only time I ever use mine is for head bolts and axle nuts. I used to use it on lug nuts but after a while you get a feel for whats "right".

2.5 heads have larger combustion chambers, that translates into lower compression and less power. Might work out good for a turbo setup but no point for a n/a engine. 2.5 block with 2.2 heads , or 2.2 block with 2.2 heads are they only two ways it works. If you need a little extra oomph out of the 2.2, look into a set of Delta Cams.

Beyond the TPS or a seriously bad IAC I'd say the ECU is about the only other answer.