Fairtax4me

I saw one in the junkyard with a hole in the same area, the ej22 stamp was punched out almost perfectly. 90-95 ej22 should work. Ej18 will be a bit less power but should work fine as well. Just use the intake from the engine in the car and you can probably use any 98 and earlier Ej regardless of size.

Well obviously there has to be something wrong. I mean, if the clutch worked correctly the engine would be knocking. Unplug a light bulb or cut one of the seat belts. Then nothing else will go wrong. :-p Just kidding. Is the pedal spongy? Or does it feel like the release point is just too low?

I've had to patch up plug wires where people poked holes in the boots. Tiny holes, only visible when you stretch the boot just right, but they still allowed spark to arc out. A dab of RTV can sometimes seal them back up temporarily. Unplugging fuel injectors is easier.

Auto or manual trans? A cracked flexplate can make a clicking/knocking type sound. You can get an oil analysis test to find out if it's a bearing. Did you notice if it seems to come from one side of the engine? Or front/back?

I didn't know there was any difference in the springs between Legacy models, but the struts will make a bigger difference than springs. New struts alone (even just OE replacements) will make a difference. Sway bars, The best bang for your buck upgrade is to go with a set of Outback bars. Both Outback Wagon and SUS Outback Sedan models have the same size sway bars. Up front you go from Base model size 19mm to 20mm. Rear size from 15mm to 18mm. The additional size of the rear bar will help keep the back end from rolling so much in curves, this is a major help on a wagon where you have extra weight up high. I'm making a junkyard trip tomorrow... well today I guess... I can look for a set for you if you want. The place I go to in Richmond charges about $15- 20 for a sway bar. They've raised the prices since the last time I bought one there.

Seafoam will not cure lifter tick on a 97 because they have to be adjusted manually. It will clean the crankcase, remove varnish/ sludge/ dirt buildup, etc. But it won't help the lifters because they will not adjust automatically.

Noisy HLAs can sometimes be cured by half a bottle of Marvels Mystery Oil poured in the crankcase and run for a few hundred miles. Change with fresh oil and filter. To help keep the lifter ticks away I run Valvoline Maxlife 5w30. It cleans everything in the crankcase and helps condition seals. Seafoam works as well, with similar results.

It SHOULD just slide off. Both of my cars it slid off with little effort. I tried to get an oil pump from a junkyard car and couldn't get the sprocket to budge to save my life. Pried at it for a few minutes with a 24" prybar, broke one of the teeth off, then gave up and found a pump on another car.

I'm trying to find out the length of the rear driveshaft on an EA car that would have the 5 speed D/R trans. Anyone happen to know? Is the wheelbase any different between a wagon and sedan of that era? I know this is one of the hurdles I'll have to jump for a swap to be fully functional. Just trying to figure out if I need a whole new driveshaft built, or if I can steal a slip section from an EA driveshaft and use the rear section from the EJ driveshaft then just have a small section fashioned to fit between that would cost a bit less.

It should come down 2-3" if you can get the bolts out. One other thing to check is the gas cap, make sure the seal isnt cracked.

Simple stuff first, plugs, wires, check vacuum and PCV hoses. How long has it been since the timing belt was serviced?

Probably a fuel management issue. If it does this repeatedly I would consider it normal for cold starting.

.055 should be adequate, but if something gets in there and blocks the flow of oil... You might check with Subaru to see if there is an updated banjo bolt. Did you check the bolts on both ends of the feed line for obstruction? Saab used to reccomend replacing the oil feed line and bolts after a turbo failure. Not sure if Subaru reccomends the same be done but you might ask about that as well. I would at least flush the line out really well to make sure there is nothing in there that could block oil flow to the new turbo.

I'm jealous. I'm lucky to get 26 out of my automagic 95 wagon on stock size tires.

Look on the bright side! If it was a Toyota the whole frame would look like Swiss cheese.

Definitely get the roller rocker cams from Delta. They sent me a set of flat tappet cams, and when I called to ask about the differences between those and the ones in my engine they told me the grind profile is slightly different between roller cams and the flat tappet style cam that came on the 90-94 and early 95 heads. The cams will fit in the heads just the same, but you can only use them if you swap in the older flat tappet rockers. It will damage the cams and rockers if you try to mix styles.

You could try car-part.com. A new cover is not much from a dealer. Around $35 if you order online.

The better idea would be to flush the cooling system entirely. Takes about 1.5 gallons for a full drain and refill. It would be a good time to replace the radiator hoses and thermostat as well.

I'm not in any way familiar with the carbs on these but I saw mention somewhere of an idle stop solenoid. That closes the primary throttle valve(s) when the ignition is turned off so the engine basically floods and stops firing. Dieseling is generally too much air or incorrect timing. If you're not setting timing with a light you need to get one so you can set the ignition timing properly.

I take the filler cap off the fuel tank to release pressure in the tank. Then wrap a rag around the fitting / hose and pull.

The return spring pulls the release lever away from the pressure plate so the TOB doesn't wear out from spinning all the time.

2.2 Felpro head gaskets are $19.99 each at autozone. And yes they have the FHI logo stamped in them. It is THE same part you would get from a dealer at around half the cost.

I'm a firm believer that you have to leave at least one thing broken, something simple like a bulb in the dash, to keep the car karma gods happy.

When the hill holder is properly adjusted you don't need the spring.

A leaking rear main tends to throw oil around in all directions and make a huge mess. If there is only a trace of oil I would leave it alone. Replace / reseal the separator plate, and the o ring that goes under the access cover on the other side.