Fairtax4me

Take a close look at the edges of the blades. In cases of extreme wear, the shaft will move enough to allow the blades to hit the housing. This will leave marks on the housing and sharpen the edges of the blades.

+1 for bustedfinger. Mucho info on there.

Sounds like an air leak. Check the intake tube clamps, make sure they're tight at both ends. Check all of the breather hoses where they attache to the intake tube and the valve covers. Check the hose for the idle control valve It's the large ~1" hose about 8-9" long that sticks out the side of the intake tube right behind the MAF sensor. Speaking of MAF sensor, get a can of MAF sensor cleaner and shoot it a few times to clean the element.

Hmm yeah, it's time to go to court. Sounds lie the dealer will be able to straighten out the car at least. Just need some legal persuasion to straighten out the crooked grease monkeys that took your money.

Sorry to hear about your troubles. Unfortunately I can't recommend a shop for you. This is one of the "lesser traveled" areas of the board. Try posting your question in the New Gen section and you should hopefully get more response.

Much easier and cheaper to just buy a car with a manual trans in it already. More than likely you'll need a WHOLE donor car for all the parts. But if you're hell bent. The basics, you already know, transmission, and matching rear diff if the trans you get has a different FDR than the one you already have. I wanna say the automagic in the 95 Legacy had 3.9 FDR, but I'm not 100% on that. The front half of the driveshaft is all you really need, but it doesn't hurt to get the whole thing. Flywheel and the bolts that hold it to the crankshaft. The MT flywheel is much wider than the AT flexplate, the AT bolts won't even reach all the way through. If you're dead set on a WRX transmission you will need a flywheel to match the car the trans comes out of. This is why it's helpful to have a whole parts car. Clutch kit, must match the transmission. And the kit will come with the alignment tool you need. Hydraulic or cable depends on which year trans you get. Just match with the transmission. Cable is easier IMO because it just works, and hydraulics are always a PITA. Shifter and pedals, and the center console trim w/ shift boot. Nothing wrong with using a WRX trans, but it will be $$$$$ whereas any other regular 5 speed is only going to be $$. There is no advantage to using a WRX transmission. The acceleration may be very slightly better, but it's just not worth the extra cost IMO. You can only do so much with an EJ22, the transmission won't make it any faster, and you'll give up highway gas mileage because the engine will be running higher rpm. Pretty much any EJ transmission will fit, so the only real limit will be what kind of budget you have for the project. Older cars will be less expensive.

Bank 1 always refers to the side that cylinder 1 is on. Cylinder 1 is the first cylinder (towards the front of the car) on the right hand side (from inside the car).

Pretty sure the MT cars got a radiator without the heat exchanger. Sounds like a head gasket. Thing is, the EJ22 is robust enough to pop a head gasket and still go strong for another 100k miles after you fix it. I'd fix it.

Check the nut that holds the cable on the alternator. Make sure it's tight. Also check battery terminals and the main engine ground.

Check out the Bluedriver app. You buy a Bluetooth adapter that plugs into the car, synch it with the iPhone and you can check DTCs and some basic parameters while the engine is running. There is also much more capability, but it costs an extra $50 or $60 I think. The basic functions work well though, and diagnostic info can be viewed on the phone, then saved and emailed.

If the PCV valve is not easy to access replacing it while you have room is a good move. If there is a large amount of oil in the turbo then it may be the source of the oil which would mean the bearings are worn excessively. Did you check the shaft for play?

Not worth trying to fix the knock because it's probably piston slap. Very common in the 2.5 and practically benign. Piston slap goes away when the engine warms up If its rod knock it won't go away, and then you take the engine back for the warranty.

I'm thinking it's the 18" rimz.

No point, it won't do any good in a trans that old. Don't use Dexron VI. Any auto parts store will have a standard Dex/Merc labeled fluid that meets the older Dexron II, and III requirements. Most of the "Multi Vehicle" labeled fluids meet Dexron III spec as well.

Well, the Ej22 heads are the same for both sides. Assuming there is no EGR on the engine, you could put a passenger side head on the drivers side, and vice versa. All the casting is there to hold the cam bearing/support that sticks out on the drivers side. The holes might not all be drilled out, I don't remember. Swap the cams so they stick out the rights ends and you can flip heads to tails.

Oh yeah those things. I just use a flat head screwdriver to pry them apart. Then I replace them with a different style clamp.

You don't say if it's automagic or manual, but in 99 a 5 speed is going to be a manual transmission which has no electronic controls, so no amount of FWD fuses are going to make a difference. Thing is, if it has the fuse holder, that car originally came with a 4 speed automagic. So I simply have to ask, which transmission do you have? Automatic or manual?

There are some other bolt holes back there near the cap. I don't recall if any are threaded, but if so you could probably put a bolt through a large fender washer into one of the other holes to help hold the plate. Otherwise, yeah rtv might do the trick if you can only get one bolt out. if you gO the rtv route, leave the rubber o ring off.

Even if you can find a used Subaru axle it's still better than an aftermarket part. Very common for aftermarket axles to fail after short periods even if no offroad or rough driving is involved.

Automagic or manual trans? If it's manual then the center differential is probably worn out and is not transfering any power to the rear wheels. Generally broken axles are due to shock loading (wheel hop, neutral drop, landing on throttle), or extreme operating angles. Has the car been lifted at all? Taller struts.springs, lift blocks? Where are you buying the axles? Are they aftermarket or OE Subaru replacements? If they are aftermarket, I'd recommend finding a real Subaru axle to replace it with.

Does it look kinda like this? http://compare.ebay.com/like/120624968015?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar I just use regular channel lock pliers on those.

Pulling the transmission out requires quite a few things to be removed. Among other things all of the air box and intake tubing that attaches to the throttle body has to come off to get access to the top of the transmission. There are at least three breather hoses that attach to the air box, any one of those left loose can cause issues. Also check the clamps that hold the air box together at the seam in the middle. On some models there is an air filter in there, others just have a "dummy" filter. Make sure the halves of the box are joined correctly. Vacuum hoses don't typically need to be removed but someone leaning over/on the engine with their hands/elbows, laying tools on top of the intake manifold, could crack or knock loose an old dried up vacuum line somewhere. They should feel soft and pliable, if any feel hard like plastic, that makes them brittle and much more susceptible to cracking. A basic tune-up on these consists of replacing fuel and air filters, PCV valve if it has one. New plugs and wires, NGK or Subaru OE plug wires ONLY on the 2.5. Use the plugs that are recommended in the owners manual. About $100 in parts and it will make it run better and/or prevent future issues.

I thought I replied to this a few days ago. Guess the "submit" button never got hit. Anyway, the silicone fluid in the bushings is usually grey, but It could be black or clear as well. They are easy to check with a pry bar. Just try to pry the control arm down away from the frame of the car. Pretty much if it moves the bushing is bad. These are very solid when new and movement is minimal. If the fluid is all leaked out it will move easily.

It won't start because the computer is thinking it is WAY cold outside so it's dumping fuel by the truckload into the cylinders, making the mixture too rich to burn and fouling/flooding the plugs. Splice the connector back on and plug it in.

I don't know that one is any different than any another. Except for cable vs electronic. But they swap both directions no problem.