Fairtax4me

^ ^ ^ What he said is exactly what I was thinking. Some type of mechanical failure.

How many miles on the car now? What engine? Look for loose vacuum and breather hoses. When was the last time it got a tune-up with plugs wires filters?

They are supposed to add coolant conditioner. Last I heard it was required for any Subaru made after 2000. That could just be for certain engines, but it was specifically because of coolant leaks in the 2.5 engines that they started using the conditioner in the first place.

Does the squealing happen when the pedal is up or down?

The one under the manifold is the evap system purge control solenoid. This solenoid can be tested in a similar manner. With the key on in test mode blow air through the solenoid. As the solenoid clicks air should flow then stop corresponding with solenoid operation. These solenoids have a habit of clogging with carbon and air will flow at all times regardless if the solenoid is open or closed. It can generally be disassembled and cleaned out when this happens.

:-p Love those problems that fix themselves. Sounds like a ground issue. The beeper grounds through one of the grounds mentioned before under the dash. Check those over and make sure they are tight and clean.

Straight 30 weight oil is too thick for starting.You need the oil to move when starting. 30 weight oil flows about like molasses in January when it's cold out. It doesn't flow well enough to get pressure all the way out to the rockers. You need oil that flows when cold so the cam, rockers, and lifters don't run dry. If it's still in there, change it with regular 5w 30. The lower (w) number on dual viscosity oils is the flow rate when cold. The lower the number the better it flows.

Depends on the type of lift but yes the pinch points are most common. A lot of newer cars actually have plastic pads on the bottom just for lifting, and have other points for the jack.

It will if you try to drive with them connected. Id double check the pins inside the connectors that you had unplugged. They can get bent easily. You have three oxygen sensor codes, a starter circuit code and a neutral safety switch code. All of them are likely due to poor connection between the component and ECU.

Big vice grips and a hammer. Clamp vice grips tight on the axle shaft, hammer away from the hub. This is of course after the diff has been dropped out of the way.

The oil pump is in the center of the block behind the timing covers. This site has good pics for removal cleaning and installation of the timing components and oil pump. http://beergarage.com/Subaru.aspx An oil pressure gauge can be attached to the block where the oil pressure switch is located between the alternator and power steering pump.

I will tell you they are IMO absolute crap. They don't do any type of weather except warm and dry. My mother had a set of these put on her 98 Camry, they were borderline in rain and downright worthless in snow. They were quiet but that's about all I'll give them. I don't know who is comparing the Advantage T/A series to the Traction T/A series tires. This is a typical apple vs oranges comparison. It can't be made because they are nothing alike, except round. That said, I've recommended the Traction TA series tires to quite a few friends and family members and all have had excellent experiences. I've worn out a set of them myself and never found anything to complain about. Price, handling, wear mileage, all add up to make a great tire in my book.

It only takes a VERY small particle to block the oil feed passage for the lifters. Often its silicone sealer from the oil pump housing after people reseal the pump. But it can be anything that gets picked up by the pump. When the lifters are collapsed they can take anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour of running before they pump back up. Give it some time they will pump back up. If you haven't done it yet, adding a half quart or so of Marvels Mystery Oil can help them pump up quicker. It will also help condition seals and clean the crankcase. Change the oil after about 100 miles of easy driving. Using a "High Mileage" oil (Valvoline, Castrol GTX) will also help prevent lifters from bleeding down. Compressed air is best to make sure the passages in the rocker assembly are clear. But I've used various canned cleaners (brake, throttle body, carb, gum cutter) to clear small passages when compressed air isn't available. 14ga wire is WAY too big to fit into the passages in the rocker assembly. I would't ram a wire into any part of an engine (or any other machine) that isn't already completely taken apart for a full cleaning.

:-p Check the CV boots for tears and grease flung out everywhere. Could also be the main shaft bearing in the transmission. That can click with engine speed when accelerating and be less noticeable or not at all when coasting or when not under load. It's a very rapid clicking sound though, like a big exhaust leak, and increases directly proportionately to engine speed. Clicking from a bad CV joint will increase with wheel speed. Here's a video of mainshaft bearing noise when driving. http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r236/CadiLLacPimPin97/Car%20Videos/?action=view&current=transnoiseCE.mp4 The black box is a chassis ear receiver. There is a transmitter stuck to the side of the transmission that picks up the noise, and sends it to the box so you can hear it in the car while driving. Another possibility is the front control arm bushings. The rear bushings (known as transverse arm bushings) are fluid filled that will split and all the silicone fluid leaks out. Then the rubber gets worn out and they wobble around all over the place. Then when the arm is put under stress, such as during acceleration or cornering, the bushing clunks around.

The IAC could need to be cleaned. Pretty simple, just remove the hose and spray some cleaner into it with the engine running. Throttle body cleaner works great for this.

The symptoms are typical for air in the hydraulic line due to a leak. From what I've read here most people replace the slave cylinder first when this happens and that usually fixes it. I'd recommend replacing both the master and slave cylinder. You can bleed the system for now and at least be able to use the car. It helps to have a friend to pump the clutch pedal while you close the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder.

These axles aren't that difficult to disassemble. Drop the rear diff out of the way, cut the CV boot off and just tug on the axle shaft until the cir-clips on the outer end pops out of the bearing. Then you can twist the bearing holder and remove it and you're left with an empty axle cup bolted to the hub. No axle shafts or bearings in them to throw off balance and cause vibration when driving. No ball bearings to turn into missiles aimed at the windshields of the cars behind you. The rear section of the driveshaft can be removed and the rest left alone. I've been contemplating doing this to my Wagon as well. Nothing wrong with the AWD on it, but I just don't need it. I have another Subaru which I would rather drive in snow/rough weather anyway. And I think I would get a decent boost in MPG from not having to drag the AWD stuff around all the time.

Ask Davebugs. He's in Pittsburgh PA, but he has a bunch of 2.5 and 2.2 parts for sale.

Seal was probably full of dirt when the PO put it back together. Straight forward replacement. Move crap out of way, yank out old seal, press in new one.

The 1.8T was used in the US market A3 and A4 models. Not sure on exact years but they stopped using the 1.8 and bumped them up to the 2.0T about 4-5 years ago. Actually they may not have offered the 1.8 in the A3 here. I think that hit the market about the same time they quit using the 1.8.

Mine does the same thing. Seems to be most noticeable when going up hill. I never thought to hook up a vacuum gauge up and see what it does though. My best guess is a stuck or sticky evap system solenoid. Not the purge solenoid but one of the ones at the back near the fuel tank. I've had a pretty constant CEL on with a P0106 code which I think is related, but I haven't cared enough to dig into it and fix it. Yours could be similar. Try pinching off vacuum lines that lead to the Evap or EGR solenoids and see if the issue goes away.

Probably won't be able to tell if there is interference. If it spins at all then you'll at least know it isn't seized. More than likely it will just turn over really easily because there is no compression.

Yeah someone probably popped a timing belt and just had it dragged to the closest dealer and traded it in. Dealer probably gave them $300 for it and figured they could sell it quick locally or send it to auction and still make the money back easy. Not enough profit margin in it for them to pay a bunch of money to get it fixed. Great deal for you though!

PCV valve is clogged and oil vapor is pushing up through the breather hoses into the air intake tube. That would be my guess.

The "pin point" electrode is probably an Iridium or platinum tip design. Whats the part number on the side of the plugs? http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/iridiumix.asp?mode=nml