Fairtax4me

O2 sensors will not affect engine running when cold. The sensor element does not produce electricity until it is warm (approx. 600 degrees), so the ECU does not take O2 sensor readings into account for determining the fuel mixture when the engine is cold. The solenoid you took apart is called the pressure sources switching solenoid. It flips between intake and atmospheric pressure to help the ECU determine air density. On some cars it also measures fuel tank pressure through the evap lines. Just depends on what time the solenoid is activated, in conjunction with the evap purge control solenoid. Basic solenoid operation can be tested by connecting the test mode connectors then turning the ignition ON. The solenoid will click in roughly 1 second intervals and air can be pushed/pulled through the ports on the solenoid. The port to the Map sensor will always be open, but the upper port and the vacuum port to the engine will switch on/off in unison. Air should only move through one at a time. If air moves through both the valve is faulty.

Sounds like something that is temperature related. Ignition parts tend to fail in that manner, they work fine when cold but not when warm. Could also be a bad ECT sensor.

Reference to the bushings that secure the sway bar to the frame of the car.

Yep. Put the jack stands under the factory lift points.

Yeah all that should swap just fine. When electronic parts (sensors) changed they generally changed the connector on the engine wire harness. If the part can physically plug into your harness, chances are good that it will work. The MAF sensors had a couple different designs. I don't know exact details on which years had which parts, but they will have a sticker on the side with Subarus 10 digit part number on them. Something along the lines of 22880 AA160 is on your 96 2.2. If the MAF from the 97 has that part number it will work just fine.

Please let us know what you find out. I'm interested to know for sure as well. The consensus from what I've read is that the struts are taller on both Legacy and Impreza Outback models. But if a Subaru dealer website has the same part listed for the "raised" OBS model, and the sportier RS model, then I suspect there isn't that much difference between these and any other Impreza model strut. Dealer part numbers change all the time. There could be 5 parts that are the exact same except for a screw or clip in a slightly different place, but they will all have different numbers. Just because the number is different, doesn't mean the part is so vastly dissimilar that it won't fit and work just the same as the listed part.

Subaru parts interchange at opposedforces.com says outback sport struts have different part numbers than other impreza models. Subarupartsforyou.com says Outback and RS models share the same struts, all others are different.

Never heard of an intermediate seal, but the inner and outer you have the right idea. It should be a press in fit. I'd go order a set from a dealer. Chances are if the part listing is wrong at one parts place it's going to be wrong everywhere.

The band falls off of the back of the center differential. It is a lock ring that holds the assembly together. Cheapest route is to get a new ( used ) transmission. Car-part.com is a good source for used parts. Not sure when they eventually fixed this issue so I'm not sure which year transmissions to steer towards or away from. I'm sure you could find some more info about it on Subaruforester.org.

The new plate is stamped galvanized steel. I use either anaerobic sealer or ultra grey, whichever is closest when I reach in my tool box. An impact screwdriver is a must. The heads on the screws will strip before you get them loose with a regular screwdriver.

Yeah Audi has the full body condom on their cars. They also ship them in covered trailers almost exclusivley. Speaking of Audi, that black car on the bottom deck looks like one.

I like the wheels.

First off, are you SURE it's the struts? Lots of things in the suspension can make little clunking noises when going over bumps. Ball joints, tie-rod ends, steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, loose bolts, wheel bearings have been known to clunk a little as well if they get bad enough. Second, Yes, Outback Sport models have higher struts so you need to make sure you get them for the OBS model, not for a regular Impreza or WRX. Broken springs will clunk too.

Doubtful. Possibly a weeper but the grey plate on the right of that pic (passenger side of the engine) is the most likely culprit for engine oil leaks in the bell housing. If that one is metal you can remove it and reseal it, or buy a new plate kit (updated design) from a dealer for about $30. Comes with a new plate and 6 new screws. There is also an O-ring on the other side that is under the diamond shaped cover. They dry out and leak pretty bad when they get old. Costs like $1.50 at the dealer. Rear main, if you must replace it, get it from the dealer. Be sure to clean the end of the crankshaft well before installing the new seal, and coat it with plenty of fresh oil. PAY ATTENTION to how deep the original seal is driven into the block, make sure you get the new seal to EXACTLY THE SAME DEPTH. Too deep and the oil will not drain from behind the seal properly, not deep enough the seal will leak.

Yup. Valve to piston interference. Only 96 and older 2.2 are NI.

I'll say this about Audi, mechanics don't call them job security for no reason. Several friend of mine have owned/driven Audis and they all had major problems. The 1.8 is a solidly built engine, and will reach 200k+ miles if properly cared for, but the rest of the car will fall apart on the way there. Turbos always need more care than a normal engine, though all too often won't get it, and when things go south it makes them that much more complicated to repair. Backfiring in the intake is most likely jumped timing. Not a difficult fix on these. A belt kit with all the idlers and water pump runs about $125 shipped on ebay.

There is only 3/16" of gasket between the lower water jacket and oil return port on the bottom of the block, if a gasket didn't seat correctly it's entirely possible coolant is getting into the oil. Should have just changed the oil and monitored it for a few days though.

Put some silicone di-electric grease in the wire end boot and that may stop the arcing. Sometimes removing the plug wires can damage the ends, it would be a good idea to pick up a new set. Sorry that you ordered a new ignition coil. They rarely fail on these cars, and if they do a used one from a junkyard car usually works just fine and costs $15-20 if you go to a U-pull-it place.

It's probably the brakes. When were the pads last changed? edit: Movement of the wheel is not a good sign. How did you check the ball joint? Did you have your friend watch the joint while you moved the wheel?

On my 2.2s I have Standard Ignition and Car-quest house brand wires and both have no problems. Both have the plain jane stock NGK BKR5E11-S (or whatever that code is) standard copper plugs that the owners manual recommends. The 2.2s aren't as picky about plug wires as the 2.5s are, but that doesn't mean the cheapo X-act or Autozone brand wires will be fine. You get what you pay for.

There were some issues with the center differentials in the Forester transmissions for a few years. The tail section is fairly easy to remove. You could pull that off without removing the trans from the car and check the center diff and transfer gears for damage.

It was just a suggestion. If you really want the upgrade knock yourself out.

Replace the knock sensor first. A bad knock sensor will cause misfires to occur. One of our members sells brand new ones for under $25. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128092 And this thread has the nitty gritty on inspection and replacement. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120610&highlight=KNock+sensor Plugs and wires are always a good idea if they haven't been done recently. 2.2s aren't as picky as the 2.5s, but quality spark plug wires are recommended. And the cheap $3 NGK plugs seem to work the best. The P0420 is likely due to the misfire. Replace the knock sensor, erase the codes and see what comes back.

I'm thinking you're using the wrong marks. Paint lines on the sprockets don't mean jack. And the lines on the belts can be off by a tooth or more. People will flame me for this but I'm gonna suggest it anyway. After you put the belt on, spin the crank 270 degrees and check the ARROWS on the sprockets. They will all point straight up when the engine is in proper time with the crank positioned at TDC for number 1. That little arrow on the face of the crank sprocket marks TDC. Line it up with the notch on the oil pump housing. It's damn near impossible to use the arrows for alignment when placing the belt, the cams just won't stay still. That's why there are notches in the faces of the cam sprockets. But checking the position of the arrows is IMO the best way to check crank and cam alignment AFTER the belt is installed.

Check the driveshaft and both rear wheel bearings for play. This could be either one.