Fairtax4me

Then we have a wire issue between the switch and blower, or between the switch and chassis ground. Pin number 1 (large pin on the end) of the switch harness plug I15 is the ground wire for the switch. Black wire. This wire goes to the harness and grounds at body ground number 7 which is at the bottom left corner of the center dash/radio console. Several black wires come together here and there is a single wire plug about 6-8 inches up the harness from where the eyelet connector is bolted to the body. The fan wiring goes though connector B80 which is in the dash behind the mode control panel. Check for continuity there between connector B80 pin 4 black and yellow wire and the blower connector B87 pin 2 black and yellow wire. This is the ground wire for the fan. With the switch in position 4 there should be close to 0 ohm resistance on this wire. You can also check continuity between connector I20 pin4 (the side that plugs into B80) and connector I15 pin 5 which is the connector that plugs into the switch. Also a black and yellow wire. There should be little to no resistance between those connectors. You can get the FSM to see the diagram for yourself here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ 1995 Legacy FSM, Wiring Diagram Section, file ~5932, page 31. Also, Congrats on the house, baby, and job!

What's the code?

Got warranty? Use it, get another trans.

I thought we covered this before? The fan is grounded through the speed control switch on the dash. Did you change the switch yet?

Low RPM misfires at idle or under load are typical with bad spark plug wires. If the misfire occurs when the engine is cold (right after first startup) then the O2 sensor is not at fault because the ECU does not take O2 sensor data into account until the sensor warms up to about 1100 degrees. It takes a few minutes. The software may not deciphering the information from the ECU correctly thus it reads no voltage even though it may be working correctly.

I think hes asking about upgraded bushings for the sway bar. Aftermarket polyurethane bushings are arguably "better" since they will last longer than stock rubber, but they are likely to transfer more vibration and shock form the road into the chassis of the car which you may feel as a rougher ride. Given that you travel a rough road, (rough in terms of normal vs severe driving conditions) It would be wise to inspect everything in the front end; ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, struts and mounts, swaybar links, etc. Brake parts will move slightly while driving. I think there would need to be a fairly large amount of movement to make a noticeable noise when on a gravel road (something that can be heard over the sound of gravel under the tires), but that doesn't rule out the brakes.

50 degrees shouldn't be cold enough for that to happen but it's hard to say. If the core is partially plugged you could still get heat, and not have enough flow for the coolant to keep it's temperature by the time it gets back out to the thermostat. 190 degree coolant in the core can still make plenty of hot air, but not be hot enough when it gets back to the engine to keep the thermostat (which opens at 170F degrees) open. The lack of flow could mean the coolant stays in the core just long enough to cool down below 170. Did you ever replace the radiator cap? What about the small rubber hose that attaches to the side of the water pump? (that is the bypass hose that brings coolant back to the thermostat).

I tried to find info on the FWD transmissions a few weeks back and couldn't find much either. What I could find was a wikipedia page with lots of Subaru transmissions, that list Subaru Factory Service Manuals as sources for some of the ratios. Might be able to find something by digging through an FSM for 94. MY1995 FSM says 1) 3.545 2) 2.111 3) 1.448 4) 1.088 5) 0.825 R) 3.416 FDR) 3.454

I think they're 14mm thread. You can probably use 9/16" grade 5 or better bolts from a hardware store if you're in a pinch. Otherwise just grab some out of a junkyard. Or I bet someone here on the board has some laying around on a bench somewhere.

Guessing it's probably pretty cold. Try flushing the heater core it could be plugged. The heater core is part of the bypass system and routes hot coolant back side of the thermostat. In very cold weather it's just enough to keep the thermostat open when all of the coolant coming out of the radiator is below 170 degrees.

I JUST had one of those like two weeks ago and tossed it. I don't know that the filler pipe has to be removed, but the plastic bushing they cram into the frame to hold that pipe is a royal pita to get out, probably that much worse with the filler pipe in the way. Crimping it off will just complicate filling the tank, and might not stop the gas smell. If the filler is rusty, find one that isn't as bad on a junkyard car and replace it and that smaller pipe at the same time. I you really wanna go dealer on that one, it's about $35. It's number 7 listed here, part number 42065AA350 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_5/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/fuel_piping/illustration_2/

I know you can get them through Matco. I bought my newest oil pressure gauge through the local Matco distributor and it came with the proper fitting. I kinda doubt you'll find one in a local hardware store. This seems to be a fairly common thread on Japanese and European cars though so most gauge kits that have adapter fittings included will probably have it.

Check here for good info on timing belt change. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=952890&postcount=7 http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm

.044" I don't think it would work too well with a .44" gap.

The manual transmission and front diff share fluid and hold just shy of 1 US gallon IIRC. The rear diff holds roughly 1 qt. It's one of the things I love about this forum. I have seen that posted many times by other members. I kinda think stuff like that should go into a tips 'n tricks thread somewhere.

Standard GL-5 Gear oil. 80w 90 is your basic gear oil, and will be the cheapest in parts stores. 75w 90 is typically a synthetic mix or will contain higher amounts of detergents and additives. It works just as well, as long as it says it meets the GL-5 spec. Then there is 75w 140 which is a full synthetic mix that provides the best low temperature flow rate with the best high temperature protection. 75w 140 is also $$. Unless you really want to spend a bunch of extra $$, or you plan to race the car, you can just stick with the plain jain 80w90. When changing the rear diff fluid, remove the FILL plug BEFORE you drain the fluid. That way you aren't stuck with no fluid in the diff if the fill plug can't be removed.

Depends on the engines involved. You mostly just have to match the ports on the heads. Dual port headers will not work on a single port engine, and vice versa.

If you removed the oil pump to reseal it then the valve train is pretty much dry when you first start the engine. It takes a few seconds for the oil pump to prime and oil pressure to reach the tappets, so you get a lot of noise for a few seconds then it goes away. But paranoia kicks in and you start listening hard to sounds that are of no consequence. Things you thought weren't there before, when in fact they were, and are normal sounds for pretty much any engine. The clutch, shaking shuddering is typical of a glazed and/or warped flywheel and/or pressure plate. There are ways to "fix" it temporarily, but in the end you just need to replace the clutch and have the flywheel machined so it's nice and flat. GripForce on Ebay sells Exedy clutch kits for about $125, maybe a bit more for the 2.5, but still possibly the best deal that you'll find anywhere on an O.E. quality clutch kit. Your low idle RPM could be a loose vacuum line or PCV/breather hose. Chances are the ECU had compensated for the issue before and when the battery was disconnected it lost the data it had stored for air/fuel mixture and spark profiles. It has to re-learn that information as the car runs, and it can take several drive cycles to complete the process.

Yes that spot is perfect to connect a pressure gauge. Warm Idle, ~700rpm, pressure of 10-12psi or more is normal. At 3,000 rpm you should see at least 35 - 40psi. When it's cold you should use 5w-30 for better oil flow at start-up. You really should just use it year round unless you live in a very hot climate where you need the higher temp viscosity of a 40 grade oil. Even better for winter would be a 0w-30 or 0w-40 oil which would flow better still than 5w, but that's not necessary unless you live in an area that routinely sees negative double digit temperatures.

Sure it does. I have two '95s that have MAP sensors. There were some variances in equipment that year, some had MAPs, some didn't. I don't remember the exact details.

Either way. If the car has a check engine light, there has to be SOME WAY to read the code. You'll certainly get some better info in the older gen section. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=2 Lots of EA owners here that know their stuff with those models.

Well, nevermind then. I read "Legacy" somewhere and it stuck.

A 1990 model is OBD1, you can hook the test connectors under the dash together and it will flash the codes that are set. I think there are specific instructions in the USRM, or you can probably find them by searching.

Used to have this problem on my old Ranger. The brake booster had moisture in it, and it would freeze when it was cold. Anytime it was below freezing I had no brakes. Had to let the truck warm up before I could move the pedal at all. :-p I replaced the brake booster and it fixed it.

Rough running when cold is a typical symptoms of a bad coolant temp sensor. Stalling can be caused by a few things. A sticky Idle control valve, vacuum leaks, various sensors. Start with the easy stuff first, check vacuum hoses, and clean the throttle body and idle control valve. Intake and Throttle Body Cleaner works by far the best for these. Seafoam in the intake works wonders as well.