Fairtax4me

They can, but the O2 will not affect running when cold. Knock sensors typically set codes when they get bad enough to cause misfires. I had a problem with a cold start misfire. It was a bad head gasket. Coolant was weeping into cylinder 4 as the engine cooled down down. When started it might misfire for 5 seconds, 30 seconds, or sometimes not at all. Check your coolant level.

Wheeewwwww... the repair list is a lot longer than I hoped it would be. Well over $1,000 if I have to go with all new parts. From the front cat back the entire exhaust is about to dissolve away from rust. Filler pipe is shot, lots of oil leaks, power steering leak (pump seals), rear struts, battery, a door lock actuator... Junkyard here I come! Got a clutch kit on the way though so I can pop the new transmission in it and hope for the best. :-p

That'll probably work but you'll have to buy a $15 socket to use it. A new drain plug form a dealer is about $10. If all the gear oil drained out though, you may have bigger fish to fry.

No it has a conventional transmission and rear differential. A transaxle is a transmission and differential unit built together. Subaru's being AWD have front transaxle AND rear differential. The Corvette would have a rear transaxle unit.

I will definitely be looking for these to hit the lot at the local dealer. Looks to small for me to fit in though.

X8 on a broken cv axle. That wil cause all of the above symptoms.

Yeah I kinda figured i could just swap it over. Thanks for the info!

If it is the compressor leaking it's leaking compressor oil. Does it have a green tint to it in the sunlight? The common leak points on the compressor are where the hoses attach up on top. The O rings dry out and the refrigerant and oil leak out. The O rings can be replaced fairly easily once the refrigerant is evacuated from the system. Generally if there is a large amount of oil, its one of the main case seals on the compressor. Not going to hurt anything if you don't mind not having AC. If you want the AC to work you'll have to replace the compressor and have the system re-charged.

I'll keep you in mind if this one doesn't work out. Now for an important question. The trans I got has a cable speedometer drive. But I'm pretty sure the car has a digital speedometer. Can I pop out the cable end and thread the digital drive part in there? Or will I have to dig into the trans and swap gears?

Incorrect timing can cause some strange problems. I got the timing off by one tooth on one cam on my wagon, and I chased misfires for over a week. It only did it when warm, under about 3500 RPM. When it was cold it was fine, but when it warmed up to a certain point it was like you had flipped a switch and all of a sudden it was running like crap again.

I left mine off on my wagon. No ill effects yet, but winter is coming and I am kinda wondering how it will do with the snow. Last time I drove in the snow the engine bay got packed full of wet snow and slush.

Did you have the heads machined? Did you clean the block down to bare metal? Did you follow the head bolt tightening procedure to a T, as if your very life depended on it? If you can answer NO to any of these there is a good chance the gaskets did not seal properly. Air in the system can play tricks on you after a head gasket job. Make sure you have bled all the air out of the cooling system. What brand of head gaskets did you use?

Anything that doesn't indicate a broken circuit is good, but the sensor outputs are more important than resistance specs. Check each with an analog multimeter set to AC and look for the needle to jump. There is a pattern to the "jumps" which can you find in the FSM which you can find by looking here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Something like 1, 1 2, 1, 1 2, for the crank sensor and 1, 1 2, 1, 1 2 3, for the cam sensor. Or maybe it's the other way around, I don't remember exactly.

The old seats seem to hold up better too. Both of my cars the foam in the side of the bottom cushion is collapsed and you can feel the steel bar of the seat frame. Most of the older cars I've sat in the seats are still in good shape.

Sound like the timing is off. Pull the belt covers and check the cam sprockets marks with the engine at TDC. This is the one time its ok to use the arrows on the sprockets. They should all point straight up. Other possibilities are plugs and wires, vacuum leak, or a loose intake tube.

Well that didn't take long. Found one in a 90 legacy with 194k on it. Just have to hope it works. Car was nice though. I took all the seats too. They're grey but in really nice shape and the drivers seat has adjustable height and lumbar.

So looking in the FSM, there is no specified adjustment for caster on these cars. If you do some googling on doing homebrew alignments, you can do the "string method" and with some complex math (like adding 2+2 :-p ) you can figure out what the current measurements are and which direction you need to go to bring them back to the proper spec. The FSM for your year will have the specs you need and how to measure them. How you design the parts to compensate for the lift depends on how much adjustment needs to be made. With a 4" lift longer brake lines will be a must. Hopefully you won't need to extend any wiring, but the radiator hoses can probably be replaced with those universal flexible ones. Automatic trans cooler lines? Steering shaft will need to be extended, not hard to do if you have a welder and some metal pipe laying around. Don't forget about lowering the driveshaft support bearing, rear cross member, rear trailing arm brackets, rear sway bar brackets (if you want to keep that), rear diff support (the big Y part), and the pitch mount will need to be extended. Although it might be easier to just make a drop bracket to bolt onto the firewall than to make a longer dogbone. I have a full 2" lift kit for my car sitting in a box in the shed I'll look at the list of parts it came with tomorrow to see if there is anything else, but I think that covers all the basics.

Did you center the pilot tool when tightening the bolts on the pressure plate or did you let hang all on it's own? If you just hang the disc it will be out of alignment. You need to wiggle the alignment tool all the way up, down, left, and right, to find the center right after the pressure plate starts to grab the disc. With the trans in gear you can turn the output stubs on the differential and it will turn the input shaft to get the splines lined up. One of my tricks is to ratchet strap the engine to the firewall and ratchet it back to bring the angle of the bell housing away from vertical. This will give you more room to move the transmission around without hitting the firewall or tunnel, or getting the release fork hung up in the pitch mount bracket.

Remove the alternator, grab the top of the sensor with some pliers and twist it to get the rust/corrosion knocked loose. Then twist and pull it out of the housing. If it's really stuck you can drill it out and drive a self tapping screw into it to pull on it with.

This is probably due to a worn inner axle cup. That could account for the clink when going into gear as well. The trailing arm bushings have to be pressed in. Replacing them on your own will be difficult without a press. But you can probably rent a ball joint service C-frame press kit to press the old bushings out and the new ones in.

You just need the rear brackets to lower the sway bar.

Denso or NTK make the OE sensors. Either way, it's always been my rule of thumb that you don't mix German (Bosch) parts with Japanese cars, or vice versa.

Check your battery cables. Are they tight and free of corrosion? Check the ground cable where it attaches to the body near the battery. Tight and fre of corrosion? Take it to autozone or another parts store that will test the battery and alternator.

Car-part.com is where I found the one for $175. Unfortunately there really wasn't anything else very close. I'd have to go to PA and pay twice as much or more. I have a few good junkyards not too far away that have a few 1st gen cars to look in. Would be nice to find one this weekend but I'm not in too big of a rush to wait a little while for a $120 trans to pop up that I can pull myself. Yeah from what i can find the 1st gen legacy trans at least uses the 24 spline clutch so any other differences should be minor I hope. Think there is any difference in FDR in the FWD transmissions? All I could find was a pretty vague article on Wikipedia that listed a bunch of Subaru transmissions. It just listed the fwd 5 mt trans at 3.454 fd. But it didn't specify for legacy loyale or impreza.

Broken rings or a hole melted in the piston. There will always be some blowby past the rings. Did you check the other cylinders for the same symptom?