Fairtax4me

Gonna pick up a 95 FWD Legacy L in decent shape. Transmission is SHOT. Has 1,2, and 3, but pops out of 3 when you go down hill. 4th and 5th it won't even go into. Thought I had sourced a good 94 Impreza transmission from a place only about 45 minutes from here for $175, had 110k miles on it. But I googled the trans code and found out it had a 21 spline input shaft. Not a big deal im thinking, until I looked up a clutch kit for it. The clutch disc for the 21 spline shaft is only 7-7/8". The 24 spline trans in the Legacy uses an 8-7/8" clutch disc. So I'm guessing that one won't work without changing the clutch and possibly the flywheel. Would make it a beach for anyone trying to change the clutch in the future trying to get the right parts. Plus I don't think the smaller disc would hold up dragging the Legacy around. So I'm trying to figure out which year cars are the best to look for a fwd transmission for this thing. I know the legacy went AWD all the time after 96. What about the Impreza? I figure I'll have the best luck looking in first gen Legacy's. Other than the transmission, it needs a muffler, fluids changed, and something in the accessory drive is rattling. Alternator or idler bearing is my best guess. Two rust spots on the rear wheel arches that need attention, shouldn't be too hard to patch those up though.

The pedal travels further than it "should"? Is this an intermittent thing or something that works in slowly as the car wears? It could just be normal and people are expecting the pedal to feel like a BMW.

Did you reset the code and wait for it to come back before replacing the sensor? Are you sure you replaced the correct sensor? Are you sure you connected the wiring correctly on the new sensor?

96 Outback manual had the 2.2 stock. I have the same problem trying to get manifold gaskets. Order them for a regular legacy with the 2.2 in the 96 - 99 MY range. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Exhaust-Manifold-Gasket-Beck-Arnley_25983644-P_97_R%7CGRPEXHAAMS_____

That's more of a PITA than it's worth. Just pound it out with a hammer. These are small 12mm, they should come out pretty easy. I knocked all the studs out of my buddies 3/4 ton chevy hubs with a hammer to replace the brake rotors. Both front rotors, sixteen 5/8" studs in all, with 23 years of goin' to the lake and launch the fishin' boat rust around them. :-p

No special tools. This write-up will help you get acquainted with the process. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90182

I changed the filter on my 02 Lincoln LS, which is behind the splash shield on the left front fender, it took longer to remove the wheel and access cover in the splash shield than it did to change the filter. It has these plastic 2 prong "fork" clips stuck in each end. Pry the forks out and the lines pull right out of the filter. 10 minutes, done. Changing the filter in my neighbors Escort, took an hour because the stupid "quick release" clips were gummed up full of crud and dirt, and the thing was buried under the back of the engine between the steering rack and brake booster on the firewall. Amazing how the same company can make that so easy for one car, yet nearly impossible in another.

Some strange lighting problems can be caused by bad bulbs. The dual filament bulbs sometimes break one filament which then falls and touches the other filament. This bridges the power of one half of the bulb to the ground of the other half. It causes a back-feed into the circuit of the non-lighted side of the bulb, which can cause interior lights to flash with the turn signal or brake lights, or to not turn off when the car is turned off. There are also cases of trailer wiring harnesses shorting and causing lots of strange lighting behavior.

Interesting. I'll have to stick a mirror in my engine tomorrow and get a good look at the wear patterns on the cams. I have lots of "clicking" at any engine speed that is too frequent to be bottom end noise, but not loud enough to be collapsed lifters. This gives me an idea that it may be dents in the cam lobes. Anyway [/offtopic] How much do you pay for the Blackstone reports?

I'm sure there is a member here on the board who can put a water pump in it for far less than $700. It is fairly in depth because it requires removal of the timing belt to replace, but it's still only an hour and a half, maybe two hour job for an experienced mechanic. Really shouldn't be any more than $250 - 300, including the cost of the new water pump. If the car is free of rust, tires in good shape, brakes OK, exhaust system isn't falling part, I'd definitely put the water pump in it (especially if you can get it done cheap).

The head kit looks OK but there are some parts there that I can't identify. A bunch of O-rings some weird kinda square gasket and what looks like valve stem seals? Never known those to be an issue on these engines. Some of the O rings are for the cam caps, one is for the filler tube I think, the others... nothing comes to mind except possibly the wrist pin access plugs, but those are on the block. Maybe they're fuel rail O rings? :-p Dunno. It's probably worth it. Looks like it has all the major gaskets and seals that need to be replaced. Price looks good, to buy the head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, exhaust and intake gaskets separately would cost around $100. And with the kit you get the cam seals and O-rings as well.

I saw one that had put number one through the top of the block in the junkyard Sunday. The EJ22 stamp was broken out perfectly. I paid $700 for my 95 wagon but it only needed a few minor things besides a burned valve. It ended up needing a head gasket, and subsequently another block after I found the cylinder wall chewed up. But the brakes were great, tires practically new, NO rust (even the bolts on the exhaust system are rust free), interior is perfect.

I had an oil analysis done a few months back to the engine in my wagon to check for bearing metals. I should probably do another one now on the "new" engine. Definitely good for Peace of mind to know the internals aren't shredding themselves.

Junkyard.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ What's the kit on Rockauto? Timing kit?

Check the air filter. If you don't have the inner fender splash shield on the passengers side, the air filter will get soaked.

Use Intake and Throttle body cleaner on the IAC. It works better. The 251 has the IAC on top of the intake doesn't it? That means you'll have to remove it in order to clean it. Grab an IAC O-ring gasket from the dealer.

Felpro head gaskets for the early ej22 are the EXACT SAME as dealer parts. I've held both. The felpro part even has the FHI logo stamped on it. Best price I found on those was $20 each at autozone.

Yeah that's an issue with the shift lock mechanism. Sometimes it's just gummed up with sticky dried up soda that spilled on there 6 months ago. You should hear a click under the shifter when you press the brake pedal (key on).

Anytime I've done that type with the plastic sleeve I just push the sleeve with my fingers and pull the line. The ones with the round metal spring inside are the type that you have to use the metal disconnect tool on.

I don't know specifics , but if it's in the way you will have to figure out how to remove it. Some of them are just bolted on, some are pressed on. A lot of times when something is in the way behind the studs they can still be removed if turned at the right angle.

Brass drift and a big fuggin hammer. The basic procedure is pound out the old and use a lug nut and a couple of 1/2" washers to pull the new stud into the hub.

I always figured the GR2 was a stiffer shock, but reading KYBs website: http://www.kyb.com/news/GR2-ExcelG.php Either way... KYB makes the OE strut assemblies for Subaru. A brand new strut from Subaru will have "KYB" stamped in the side of the case. So there is no way to lose by finding a less expensive source on KYB parts.

Have you changed the gear oil? Id do that first with a $10 gallon of fresh 80w90. Fresh fluid by itself can make a lot of problems better if not cure them altogether.

Pretty simple. The thermostat is on the inlet side of the engine, so large amounts of cold coolant In the radiator will cause the thermostat to close, thus blocking the flow of coolant, and causing the coolant in the block to boil. There is a bypass system in place to prevent this. It runs from the engine block to the heater core, then back to the water pump through the bypass pipe. (its the hose that sticks out the side of the thermostat housing of the water pump) The coolant is still warm enough to keep the thermostat open and keep coolant flowing through the block. Change out that aftermarket thermostat ASAP. They are known to cause problems in these because they are not the correct design.