Fairtax4me

More than likely, it's aimed at reducing harmful emissions. At a given temperature the 0 weight oil will flow easier than 5 weight. The thinner oil allows the engine to spin easier, which reduces emissions during warm-up. This allows the engine to reach operating temp in less time, further reducing emissions. I won't be surprised to see engines requiring 0w-10, or even lower weight, oil in a few years.

That's if it goes into limp mode. Just because the code is present doe not mean the ECU is in limp mode. There are several ways a knock sensor can fail and cause a code to set, but the same code sets for all of those failures. Inspect/replace the knock sensor. Deal with the fuel trim issue if it's still around after resetting the ECU.

With bottom mounted filters the oil can drain out of the block passages when the filter is removed so yes it does help to fill them before installing. But with the top mounted filters, the oil stays in the block when the filter is removed, it can't drain up. So there will always be oil in the block passages, which is where you need it most. The filters only take ~2-3 seconds to fill completely once the engine is running.

It looks like most of the links for write-ups associated with this are broken or the pics showing details don't load. Pretty much the entire HVAC unit has to be disassembled but then the bulb sockets twist out of the PCB. I need to do this on my wagon, so maybe it's a good time for a NEW write-up that can be hosted on THIS site rather than some other random place where you have to log in to see anything.

Yeah a fully assembled SOHC head, w/ rocker cover and cam sprocket installed, you can hold in one hand. I say with rocker cover, because even the FSM says that there is no need to remove the rocker covers in order to remove the head.

Don't think my 95 Legacy is anything like that. It has bushings pressed directly into the crossmember. The studs in the diff cover are in the same place, but they are longer to go through the bushings. Good write-up though!

If the new engine calls for 0w-20 oil, use it. It's complicated to explain, but basically the designers of the engine are looking for the oil to be a certain viscosity when the engine is warm. The 0w20 oil is what they recommend based on clearances and tolerances of the engine internals. The synthetic will also last longer and protect better between changes. It also has almost no tendency to sludge like conventional oil will. Your oil change interval on synthetic should be somewhere in the 7,500 - 10k mile range. Which means you spend less on oil changes when compared to a 3000 mile interval on conventional oil at $30 per change (if you DIY).

You can lap your own valves with the $5 valve lap tool set and a tube of valve grind compound from autozone and a cordless drill. Well you don't NEED a drill but it makes it much easier. Use the one with the smallest suction cup, pull the cup off the other end and chuck the stud into your drill. A little grind compound on each valve and a couple seconds of spinning lift spin lift spin. There is a spec for how wide you want the contact area of the valve to be, consult the FSM for that info, so you do have to be careful when grinding that you don't grind them too far. It took me 20 seconds or so with the drill to lap in the one I replaced on my wagon. Hopefully the seats aren't damaged. Otherwise it will need to go to a shop to have them cut. Valve seat cutters are NOT cheap.

Hmm. Well double check the connection in the speed sensor plug, just make sure it's clean (no dirt/grease) and the pins are straight. Your problem may be elsewhere. If the speed sensor is unplugged the speedometer won't work, so if the speedo works the sensor wiring isn't an issue.

Yeah you can roll it just fine. Don't even need to hold up the trans. Just drop it on the subframe and shove off! No TTY bolts that I know of. Head bolts are 110% re-usable. Chase the threads in the block so the bolts don't bind during the torque sequence. Coat head bolts in fresh motor oil when installing. My machine shop charged $35 per head to resurface. There's a place about 45 minutes from here that does Subaru heads for only about $30 per head but it's not really worth the drive. Especially since the local guy machined them while I watched/waited. For the valve work I have no idea.

What bulb does the GT fog light use? If the connector plugs straight into the back of the bulb, look for a pigtail connector for that bulb. Some bulbs you can find wire pigtails at local parts stores. Others you might have to order on ebay or something.

Aha! P0500 speed sensor A malfunction P1540 Speed sensor malfunction ( long term diagnosis) P1507 Idle control malfunction ( fail safe mode) On the p@ssenger side of the transmission case about 12-15 inches back from the bellhousing, up at the top there is a recess in the side of the case with a cylinder sticking out of it at a slight angle. It should have a couple wires sticking out of the top that should be routed towards the front of the transmission. More than likely someone unplugged it and dropped the connector so now it's hanging down by the front cv joint on that side. Worst case it fell and landed on the catalytic converter and has been melted/burned beyond use. The Idle control malfunction will probably go away when the speed sensor issue gets fixed.

LMAO! Torque converter is easy. After you remove the bolts, pry it away from the flexplate with a screwdriver. Once the engine and trans are separated, bolt a box end wrench to the bellhousing to hold the TC securely in place while you move the engine/transmission around. This isn't entirely necessary when just removing the engine, but it makes it mucho easiero to deal with when removing the transmission. Also I've found when lifting the engine, if you don't have a load leveler, bolting the chain to the block with the large bolt that holds the lower AC compressor bracket on will help balance the engine just a little better, and helps tilt the back of the block down just a hair which makes it easier to line up with the trans when re-installing.

O2 connector would also have 4 wires wouldn't it? At least 3 anyway. How many wires does the speed sensor have? It's somewhere on that side of the transmission isn't it? (having a major brain-fart day :-p )

Not going into first gear when sitting still sounds more like a clutch problem. Usually when the clutch doesn't release properly. A seized pilot bearing can also cause the same problem, but try adjusting the clutch cable to bring the pedal up a little higher and see if that helps before condemning the transmission. There's not much out there in the way of fluid that will help a worn first gear synchro. It can be dealt with though, you will just have to push the clutch pedal in and hold it for a few seconds before trying to engage the gear. Edit: I'm actually glad this thread was resurrected... again. I had consistent shifting issues that varied with transmission oil temperature. On plain off the shelf 80w90 I had hard/stiff shifting when cold and a definite thud when going into second gear. After switching to Amsoil synthetic 75w90 the second gear and cold shifting issues went away, however I developed a crunch going into third when the trans was warm. I did not get a chance to see if another fluid would have corrected the third gear shift. I have replaced that transmission, due to a worn main shaft roller bearing, with one of lower mileage. The "new" transmission has the same shifting issues, but both are present with standard 80w90 gear oil. Reading that the OP had success with a GL-4 grade oil, I think I may try out a GL-4 synthetic oil of some type, just to see what it will do. I'm still not entirely convinced that a GL4 fluid is safe for use with the front differential. But I can send in a sample of oil for testing after every 7500 miles or so to look for wear patterns of the internals of the trans. The differential ring gear and pinion gear are made of a different type of steel than the other gears in the trans, same with the various types of bearings. So fluid analysis should detect the different grades and types of metals as the components wear.

Recent work done? Check engine light on? Some reason to suspect it actually plugs into something? A lot of car makers seem to like leaving test connectors all over the engine bay and under the dash with no apparent destination.

Did you get the relay as well? I just hooked up a set in my car a few months ago. It's not hard. I can look at the wiring tomorrow and tell you where to hook up what, but you need the relay. I think it was only a 4 pin? relay though, you can usually buy those pretty cheap at a parts store if you don't have one laying around. BTW, before you install the lights make sure the adjusters work. Mine came off a junkyard car and the adjusters were full of sand. Had to remove the lights and disassemble and clean the adjusters then put everything back on so I could aim them.

Probably not. The more common rust point on these is the wheel arch and nobody makes patch panels for those either AFAIK. Your best bet would be to check with a local body shop or a dealer to see if they can order the outer panel. If not, you get to get creative. I kinda wonder if a section of PVC pipe could be cut and stuck on there somehow? Then it would never rust again. Either that or go to a junkyard with a sawzall and cut a good one off a junked car.

My 95 wagon is the same way. The needle moves up and down all over the place. I've watched it move from 1/8th tank to up over 1/4. Last week I set the needle on the peg then drove to work and back two more times. Only took 13 gallons to fill it. I have noticed though that the needle on the wagon comes down form full much sooner than my sedan ever did. Going by the gauge, (which is pointless) I typically only get 40 miles out of that first "quarter". My sedan does at least 60 miles of the same type of driving to move that first "quarter". I have some BG 44K that I'm going to pour in the wagon and maybe it will help the fuel sender. Don't know.

I'm pretty sure a machine shop could still redrill the hole and install a thread insert. Time-sert makes over sized 11mm head bolt repair inserts. http://www.timesert.com/html/universalheadbolt.html

I don't understand why they can't put a few helicoil thread inserts in the block and put it back together. People do it all the time. You have to drill out the threads in the lock to install a helicoil anyway. Did they put the wrong size insert in the block? If that's the case the dealer should be paying for whatever it takes, fix or replace the block. Don't let them walk on you because they Effd up. Stripped head bolt threads are common on aluminum blocks, It shouldn't be a problem for them to fix. If it is, you get SOA involved and let the dealer know you aren't letting them slide this one of their back.

Yeah most of those headlight "sealer" products you see on the shelf that you just wipe on, don't work worth jack. Regularly applying wax, basically any car wax, will keep your lights protected just as well as any "sealer". A few coats of good automotive clearcoat, properly applied, will last for 4 or 5 years with no attention.

I really haven't heard that much bad about them. Most of the posts I've seen on them are about timing chain concerns, which really shouldn't be much of a concern. Never heard of one with a bad head gasket.

I'd lean more towards tire noise than a drivetrain issue. What kind of tires are on your cars? Also your Legacy has more insulation to keep sound out than the Forester does.

I think they were quoting you for a main fuel pump assembly which is on the passenger side. If you're saying it has a hose on it though I don't think it's the sending unit. As far as I can tell the secondary pump is inside the tank and not replaceable. There is a secondary sending unit for the fuel gauge on the drivers side, but it shouldn't have any hoses on it. Take a picture of what you're looking at and post it and maybe we can figure out what it is exactly that you need.