Fairtax4me

Depending on the transmission, you get closer steps between the gears, and either a very every so slightly lower final gear or very ever so slightly higher final gear. Either way, you get one extra gear to shift through, but no benefit in cruising RPM. And you're out anywhere from $2,000-3,000 for the transmission. 6 speeds are generally in short supply and high demand by the performance crowd, because they keep blowing them up. Here is a fairly comprehensive chart on which transmissions have which ratios. http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.html

Yeah it looks like your crank pulley was installed incorrectly. The key is a fairly loose fit in the crank pulley. My dealer carries them in stock all the time for only a couple bucks. You'll probably have to grind or cut the edges off in order to get the timing sprocket off so you can remove the key.

Which engine is in your Foz? I was under the impression that all EJs got EGR after 98-ish...(?) regardless of transmission type. Maybe that's only true for the 2.5?

You know now that I think about it, IIRC there was one solenoid that had a one way valve in it. I don't recall which solenoid it was. The valve allowed air to pass by the solenoid even with the valve closed. It was either that or the valve was open one way when the solenoid was on, but open to the other way when it was off. I might have to look that up again.

I don't remember anymore. I might have. But either way. Connect the green connectors under the dash and turn the key to ON. The solenoid should click if it's working. Pull one of the hoses off and try to blow through the solenoid as it clicks.

It means there is a fault code stored in the Transmission Control Unit. There is a way to get the light to flash the code. I don't know it off hand, but it has been covered quite a few times here.

What metal peice? The clamp that the screws go into to hold the injector in the rail? You're supposed to swap that from the old injector to the new one. It just pulls off.

I'm not 100% sure on the newer ones, but there is usually a cover on each side that allows access to the bulbs. Some cars you have to remove the entire taillight assembly to get access to the bulbs. Check in the owners manual to see if it has any info.

Haven't heard of that on anything that new yet. It's a very common problem on older cars. The causes vary form faulty sensors to plugged catalytic converters. At that low mileage, you are covered under federal mandated warranty for any emissions related part on the car, take it to a dealer and make them sort it out.

Since the code keeps returning I would check wiring connections. Somehow the signal gets from the ECU to the TCU. Check the wiring at the TCU connector, be sure all the pins are clean and make sure none of the wires are knicked. Have you done a full range sweep of the TPS to make sure there are not "flat" spots in the signal?

Yes, you can do one axle (front or rear) at a time if you need to. I'd certainly recommend doing the front first.

Yeah 6 will be the rear-most plug on the drivers side. I believe the H6 uses individual coils for each plug. Probably just whoever changed the plugs didn't get the connector on the coil clicked in properly. I'd take it to whoever put the plugs in and make them fix it.

I don't get it. You're reading TCU Transmission Control Unit codes or ECU Engine Control Unit codes? What are the numbers for the codes you are pulling? Is the check engine light on?

Dunno about interchangeability, but wort case you can remove the lock cylinders and take them to a locksmith to be re-keyed. I had some done not too long ago and I think it was around $10 per lock. Might call a few places to see what they charge in your area.

It's fixed enough to drive for now. That's all I really care about.

There are NO coolant passages in the oil pump. The water pump is NOT attached to the head. It is attached to the block and is less than 1/4" away from the side of the oil pump. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/Freakness/Update%2021/Motorviewshowingwaterpumpinstalled.jpg You probably have a failed water pump gasket or block plug seal. Crank pulley bolt is 22mm.

The ECU detects misfires when it notices a change in crankshaft speed. At any given RPM the ECU knows when to expect the next tooth on the crankshaft sprocket to pass by the crank sensor. When that doesn't happen within a the certain time that the ECU is looking for that next tooth, the ECU basically records that as a pattern that it compares to several different variables to figure out which cylinder is misfiring. It can take some time before it determines exactly which cylinder is misfiring. But it keeps track of the changes that occur, and based on the programming of the ECU it will eventually figure out a cylinder and set a code. I've read that NGK wires are just as good as Subaru wires, and some think NGK are the OE supplier for Subaru.

OK It's a capable car, but REALLY!?! You don't go rock climbing with a street sweeper. And then if you get stuck don't leave the thing! That's why you trail with friends. Friends who have the ability to pull you out if something breaks.

So the best I can figure is that during the break in for the cams, while the lifters were clattering up a storm, the cams must have been doing some clattering of their own. Drivers cam was advanced by a tooth. :-p I spun the engine over 2 complete turns and checked the belt alignment three times before I put the engine in, then again right before I started it the first time, and it was spot on every time. Set the timing right fired up and took it for a drive. Much more better! Put about 60 miles on it and not a single hiccup sputter jump jerk or miss. It's ************ing fixed!!!

Still misfiring when warm. Swapped injectors, MAF, Ignitor, coil, new plugs gapped at .039, drove with the O2 sensor unplugged, nothing made even a slight difference. I think I've pretty well covered all of the bases for electronic possibilities, unless a failing crank or cam sensor can cause something like this. I'm going to run it by Subaru and see if any of the techs have any ideas about it. But I'm leaning more and more toward a mechanical issue now. Kinda wondering if the cams might be doing this? But if that's the case I can't imagine why it would only do it when warm. Hard to tell if there is still steam in the exhaust. It has been so wet here the past few days that every car is blowing steam.

I really don't want to hear ************ about the difference in cost. Maybe where you are. Where I am it's currently $0.35 per gallon more for premium. And that keeps going up. I pay an extra ~$5.25 to fill the tank in my Lincoln just to keep it driveable, because anything less than premium makes it sound like it has rocks bouncing around in the cylinders just trying to drive up the street. I'm doing that twice a week right now. After a month, I could fill up my Subaru off that extra $40 I have to spend on premium for this car. I think I got the info I wanted, so I'm going to rebuild what I have and run with it. I'm already ~$250 ahead by not having to drive to find and pay for a used engine that I have no idea what kind of condition it's in. For that I can order rings and bearings and get the block completely reworked. I might use different pistons, I might not. I'll figure it out later.

Yeah I don't want to be stuck running 93. The car is gonna be lifted and probably turning 27" tires on 3.9 gearing. With my lead foot that's what will end up happening.

And still run regular 87 gas?

Swapped temp sensor, no difference. Pulled plugs again. This is after about 50 miles of driving. Number 2: Clean, looks perfectly normal. Numbers 1,3, and 4: The housings are covered in black soot. All have very minor discoloration of the ceramic. On 1 and 4 the ground electrodes are white.

Bored and stroked? Sounds great, but I can't imagine that's in my budget range right now.