Fairtax4me

Timing belt links: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=952890&postcount=7 http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm Courtesy of Johnceggleston's sig

Remove the clamps, slide the boot down the axle shaft away from the cup. (you probably figured that out already ) The outer joins usually have a cir-clip on the end of the shaft (inside the joint) that allows the joint to pop off with a little persuasion. Get a brass drift or block of wood (~2x2) with a rag wrapped over the end. Place the drift or block against the shaft side of the inner bearing race (the part that looks like the star, I can't remember the exact name for it) and pound on it a couple times with a hammer. It helps to have a friend to catch the outer end when it falls off, or set it so it falls onto your bench. Be sure to check the cir-clip and make sure it is properly installed before putting the axle back together. Pull the old boot off, slide the new one on, clean all the grit out of the bearings if you need to, re-grease, then pound the outer joint back onto the shaft. Pop the boot on and clamp in place.

Are you sure the clutch disc is installed facing the right direction? Could also be a bent or cracked release fork.

Nobody knows? Eh well, I swapped them in anyway. Except for the first start after the swap (loads and loads of gas dumps into the intake when you pull the injectors out) it seems OK now. Need to start it a few more times to see how it acts.

CV joints will make noise constantly when they're on their last leg. You were literally minutes from failure with that one.

Zip tie maybe? Or just make sure it is secure before every trip, and stop every few hours (like you're supposed to) to make sure the straps are tight and cargo is secure.

I've searched and the answers are as scattered as... well, you know. Anyway. I think I have an injector going bad on the wagon. (95 Ej22) It runs rough when it starts, clears up after a few seconds for the most part. Coolant and outside air temps don't affect it. Smells like my old truck when it does this. I've started thinking it must be an injector leaking as it is only a single cylinder misfire. Plus and wires just replaced and seemingly made no difference. It's intermittent. I can feel it fire once or twice on all four, then it will stumble again for a few seconds then clear up. Then it's fine until I start it again. Then it might misfire or it might run perfectly fine. I didn't check what kind of injectors my car had, actually still haven't, but I'm guessing they're the red ones. I got a few of those, but also grabbed a set of grey injectors out of a 94 EJ18 Impreza coupe, from the junkyard this weekend. I'm wondering if anyone knows for certain if there is a difference in flow rate between Ej18 and Ej22 injectors. The info I can find some say yes but they aren't sure of the exact difference, others say there is no difference. Anyone know for sure?

I hear of these 2.2s going for 350k+ miles on a regular basis with only regular maintenance. As a matter of fact there is a recent thread about one here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=122086 That said, not all of them make it that far for various reasons. Generally due to abuse, neglect, and poor maintenance habits. Go for the work. Search around here for some tips on how to save some $$ on the parts you need. (online vendors/dealers, discounts, etc.)

DO THIS^ ^ ^

X2. I was on the fuel pump bandwagon. But I guess that ones out the window. I know chevy engines like to ping, kinda wonder if this could be a faulty knock sensor. I didn't see anything mention of the O2 sensor ever being changed.

You can usually fit larger speakers than what "they" say will fit with a little modification. I just crammed a set of Alpine 6-3/4" components into the doors of my 95 wagon. Crutchfield's listing said they wouldn't fit, because they don't without modification. But I cut out the speaker brackets a little and did some minor trimming on the rear door panel speaker grills and made enough room for them. And it all looks completely stock.

Right, That or your local dealer might be able to look up the cars VMI and get the info you need there to reorder the lock.

The point where the fluid covers the entire width of the dipstick, not just a line or drip on the edge, is right about where your fluid level is. The dipstick tube is partially immersed in fluid in the pan, so the end of the tube has fluid it in. When you pull the dipstick out, it will also pull a small amount of fluid up the side of the tube, similar to tracking dirt into the house on your shoes. When you put the dipstick back, the fluid on the sides of the tube runs down the side of the stick and leaves the thin line on the edge. It is especially bad immediately after adding fluid to the trans. So you should wait for a few minutes for the fluid to drain down out of the dipstick tube after adding fluid before checking the level.

It's not a big deal. With older types of fluid overfilling could cause foaming because of cavitation. New additives in modern oils work very well at preventing foaming of the fluid. Being at or just slightly above the F mark on the dipstick will not have any ill effects on the fluid or the transmission. The difference between full and low is only something like 1/2 quart, might even be less than that. So if the level is a tenth of an inch over the mark, that's only a few ounces of fluid.

Busticated is a good word for it. Not laughing at your misfortune, I've had my share of dead transmissions. Torque bind and reverse are not connected in anyway whatsoever. These are two entirely different sections of the transmission. Torque bind is caused by the center transfer unit. Reverse locks down one of the clutches/bands on the planetary gears so the main drum will spin the opposite direction. You might have a valve body issue. This is not allowing full line pressure to the solenoid that controls the reverse band, or to the duty C solenoid which controls the pressure on the transfer clutches. Or the lack of torque bind might be because the clutches in the transfer unit have been knocked loose from the transfer drum, and the reverse problem is just a coincidence. Too hard to say without taking it apart and looking.

Center differential/transfer unit damage is the cause of torque bind. A bad differential can cause binding, but it's a bit different. Usually it is due to the spider gears being worn and getting jammed when the axles try to spin at different speeds. They will make popping and clicking noises as you turn. Is this auto or manual trans? NVM. I'll post in your other thread.

The whole repair was done as cheaply as I could possibly do it. The engine had no compression in cylinder one, and it had been driven for over 100 miles like that by the PO's son. For all I knew the rings were wiped out and there wold be low or no compression anyway, even after the repair. I removed the head, removed the valve, then had to grind off a small piece of melted valve that had splattered itself to the valve seat. That took some time with a pick tool, then I used the old valve to grind the seat until it was smooth. After that I ground in the new valve, (brand new from Subaru) put the head back together and put it back on the engine. I did use a Subaru head gasket, because they had it in stock when I needed it and all the parts stores had to order it. It fired up and ran on all four on the first crank. The lifters ticked like there was no tomorrow for about a half hour then quieted down. I've got about 1,500 miles on it like that. Still waiting to see what goes wrong.

Even the plastic ones can be resealed if you're in a pinch. Just clean it up really well to get all of the old sealer and oil off before reinstalling.

A Big ole fat Zero. Needle didn't even pretend to flinch when I cranked it. The other three cylinders were in the same ballpark as yours. It's not that hard to just replace the valve. At 220k miles it's probably not worth putting much more into it than that. I'd say from start to finish it took me about 8 hours with a lot of screwing around. If you have or at least have access to a spring compressor you can do the job yourself in a day and have it back in good running shape for not much $$.

If it's a misfire you'l have a check engine light. Make sure the CEL works during the bulb test when you turn the key on. When you start the engine it should go out after a few seconds. If it doesn't light up at all the bulb is burned out. You'll want to get the codes read to see what faults the ECU has recorded.

Sounds like a burned valve. I bought my wagon with no compression on number 1. About $50 in parts to fix it and it runs fine... for now.

Oil pressure control valves for the variable cam timing.

I'd run a file inside it and try to drag as much crud out as you can. Any kind of grease will do to lubricate the hitch. It will help to get a cover to put over the receiver when it's not in use.

Is it leaking or burning it?

It often is cheaper to replace an axle than to repair one. I still choose the repair option when the boots are just split. After market axles tend to be poor quality and often cause way more headache than they're worth down the road. They wear out quickly, cause vibration/shaking, then the cheap boots on them split and you get to replace them all over again.