Fairtax4me

Unless they drained it, a junkyard compressor will already have oil in it. Just don't flip it over and let any spill out through the hose ports.

X2 You can often find good radiators in junkyards, but should should know what to look for that may indicate a problem. You take the same gamble as with any other junkyard part.

Been driving my sedan for almost a month with no AC belt. Do seal up the ends of the hoses though. What was so hard about removing the compressor? Just remove the 4 long bolts from the side and it lifts straight up.

Warranty? Should have said that before. Take the damn thing back can tell them it's messed up. No reason to take it apart if you can get another one for free.

Apparently it was a pretty big problem. Every one of the cars of this era that I've ever looked under the hood of has a Subaru reman sticker on the alternator.

X3 The "dumb girl" thing goes out the window when you actually ask for advice.

Well in this case it sounds like a reputable and knowledgeable shop diagnosed it, and likely are correct. Have the heads machined by a machine shop before you reinstall them to give the best possible chance for a good seal. And be sure to be familiar with the torque sequence before tightening the head bolts. You do not need new head bolts on Subaru engines. Tools. You will need a 14mm 12 point socket for head bolts. At least 1/2" drive. An accurate torque wrench is a must. A torque angle gauge may come in handy, but if you are good with judging angles (90°) it's not necessary. Other than that, an assortment of regular hand tools, metric sockets and wrenches.

There is a service sticker under the hood, usually on top of the header panel, that says what the system is designed to hold. X.X oz of the approved type of oil, X.X grams of refrigerant.

23700AA34ARA https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html Copy and paste it into the search box to see their price.

Pull the tail shaft and transfer housings off and check out the transfer gears and center differential assembly. Those can all be replaced without a complete tear down of the transmission. Anything forward of that requires the case to be split, and generally means you should just get a new used transmission.

I thought I said it was the one on the back of the head. Must have cut that part out by accident. (My replies generally consist of a bunch of rambling that gets cut down to the parts that make sense before I hit submit)

Are you SURE it is leaking from the head gaskets? 2.2 head gasket failure is rare. Oil leaks are not, and quite often oil leaks can appear to come from the head gaskets, oil pan or rear main seal, though they stem from other sources. There are three places that very commonly leak on this engine. The valve cover gaskets, the cam seals, and the oil separator plate. One seal in particular that creates a lot of problems is the rear cam O ring on the back of the passenger side head. It's under a metal cap with 2 bolts securing it to the head. Remove the bolts and twist the cap to remove it and the O ring can be swapped. A generous coating of oil and a little twist the cap will slide back into the recess in the head. There is a similar seal on the driers side head. It's a round plug seal. It's very difficult to change with the engine in the car. Mostly because it has to be pressed/tapped into the bore.

You said it, not me.

Bushings, strut mount, broken spring, broken sway bar link are a few possibles.

I like to make my own sandwiches thank you very much. But you can do some other things in the kitchen if that's where you prefer to be.

My thoughts exactly. Get one for like $5 from a junk yard. Takes less time to replace than hunting down wires, cutting/striping and soldering in a resistor. Then it works the way it's supposed to. If it doesn't fix the problem. The wiring is the problem and a resistor won't fix that either.

And a $93 oxygen sensor is cheaper?!

Auto or manual trans? Auto trans has separate oil for the front differential. Have you driven the car and that's when you noticed the noise? Or are you spinning the wheels with it on jack stands?

I still don't understand. Since when do females have logic?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120610

She has a code for a knock sensor. But she wants to replace the O2 sensor first? Refer her to my Knock Sensor 101 thread.

As long as you have the 2 studs at the bottom the long bolt through the starter, and one bolt in the other top corner, you're golden. The rest is dead weight.

Using Zip ties can help hold the belt on the sprockets while you are trying to get everything set. Once the sprockets are set to the proper marks, I hang the belt, zip tie it to the passenger cam. Then rotate the cam by hand a little to give some slack while I set the belt on the crank. Turn it back to take the slack out, adjust if the mark doesn't line up. Then I set a wrench across the top of the crank sprocket, between the belt and the crank sensor. This holds the belt in place so I have two free hands to set the belt on the drivers side cam. A 17mm wrench, or socket on a breaker bar to turn the drivers side cam just a little bit clockwise away from the timing mark, pull the slack out of the belt and set it on the sprocket, turn it back to the mark or until the belt has no more slack. Adjust if necessary. Hold the belt taught by hand and move the tensioner bearing into place. Once the bearing is there the weight of it will keep the belt in place, move the wrenches out of the way and bolt on the bearing.

I saw the good side first, and thought I might have found a good white hood for my wagon. Then as I got closer and saw the OTHER side... It was good. Actually it was nearly perfect. Certainly worth paying $50 for. One small ding, and a couple small chips in the paint near the grille. Until that happened of course.

Explain what the symptom is, why it was taken to the dealer to be diagnosed in the first place.