Fairtax4me

There was a thread just a few weeks ago where someone had dropped one into a second gen Legacy. Practically had to shoe horn the thing in. Radiator had to be moved forward, custom upper support, hood latch had to be removed. Don't know that I've seen a picture of one in an EA car, but I'm sure it could be done. Might have to stiffen the chassis to keep it from twisting when you take off.

You should have the heads machined anyway, being a 2.5. As long as it is outside of the compression ring it should be fine. Any machining to remove the knick will probably mean taking the head thickness below spec. Head specs go by thousandths of an inch. The maximum warpage spec for a cylinder head is 0.005", which is about the width an average human hair. As long as the knick is outside of the compression ring, it should be fine. I would just get it resurfaced, and put it back on. You might talk to the machinist to see what he thinks about possibly making it better. Making it go away completely would mean machining the head a fair amount though.

They're assuming you'll get closer to 30 mpg. You need to hit 25 mpg to get 400 out of a tank if you run it dry. But how often do you run the tank dry or nearly dry before filling up? Realistically you fill up with about 3-4 gallons left in the tank. That's about what you have left when the gauge hits the E mark. So figure 12 gallons at 25 mpg = 300 miles between fill ups. I've taken my sedan on several trips where I went 400+ miles on a tank. Could have gone farther too. The last one I was at about 415 and filled up with ~12.5 gallons. My wagon barely made 300 on the same amount (12.5 gallons) during the trip I took a few weeks ago.

Diff is probably shot. Problem is, what is the reason the driveshaft was removed in the first place? Usually it's because the center transfer unit in the transmission is screwed up (clutch worn, duty solenoid stuck, grooves worn in the drum) causing the car to have torque bind. Your pandoras box has been opened. Plenty of info here about how to get it fixed though. Search for Duty C, Torque bind, center diff, etc. Might even have a thread or three in the "Similar Threads" section at the bottom of the page.

You said no spark on 2&4. The first post says you do have spark on 1&2. Then you say you do have spark on 1&3. Plus 1&3 are on the right side of the engine 2&4 are on the left side (from inside the car). We need to know exactly which plugs are not getting spark. Otherwise we're just chasing our tails.

Legacy L 2.2 model would. Outback manual had 4.11s. 15.9 gallon tank would net you ~286 miles run dry. Go 220ish and fill it up to stay on the safe side.

Bad thermostat and/or low coolant. What color is the "fluid" under the car? What color is the coolant in the radiator? Is there any coolant in the radiator? (probably not if it's all on the ground ) Find the source of your leak. Thermostat seal, lower radiator hose, bypass hose, are all easy to get to. A bad water pump gasket is a bit more involved. (timing parts come into play)

Jingling keys = worn brake pads. Or it might be like my car where there is plenty of pad but they just squeak anyway.

Ej22 right? Look into a set of Delta Cams. No personal experience myself, but there are plenty of members here who run them and are very happy with them.

Never heard of it. I might have to look into it.

The yellow wire at the coil is 12V power. The other two wires go directly to the igniter. Check continuity of both wires (end to end) to rule out a broken/cut wire.

Wiggle some wires around under the hood while it's idling to see if you can get it to stumble or stall out.

If you can find a machine shop that does custom work they can cut some holes in it here and there, and re-balance. Probably cost a fair amount to have it done though. A light weight after market replacement is probably cheaper than paying to mutilate a stock/OE flywheel. There will be other effects from lightening the flywheel. You may get better throttle response and power in the higher RPM range, but you will lose starting torque. This generally means you will have to ride the clutch more to get the car moving. So the clutch wears out sooner, the flywheel is subjected to excess wear and higher temperature. You will also have more engine vibration at idle.

\Doesn't matter. The ENTIRE driveline spins when the car moves, regardless of FWD or AWD mode. The driveshaft still turns whenever the car rolls. The difference in FWD mode, the rears wheels will not BE DRIVEN by the transmission. If you were in a situation where AWD was needed, where the front wheels were able to slip, the rear wheels would not kick in to help move the car, they will sit there like dead weight.

My moneys on a bad U joint. But this got my attention At 146k an Ej22 is just getting broken in. What the hell did they do to warrant rebuilding an Ej22 at that mileage? 2 Options: 1.They never maintained the car, ever. 2. They were BSing you trying to get more money. Now down to brass tacks. If the differential was at fault, holding one wheel still would make it knock and click and carry on like a popcorn machine. When you had the car on jack stands, did you have all 4 wheels off the ground? Were the rear wheels spinning when the trans was in gear? They should, if not, check the FWD fuse holder on the passenger strut tower. Small black box, 3/8" x ~1" . Open it, there should NOT be a fuse in it. If there is, remove it. The fuse gives power to the duty solenoid "C" that controls the fluid pressure on the center transfer unit clutches. When the fuse is in place, it disables the AWD, so the rear wheels will not get power from the transmission. With the fuse removed, the AWD works normally, the rear wheels get power. This will cause the whole driveline to spin, a four wheels, all four axles and the driveshaft. The driveshaft consists of 2 sections, has 3 U-joints, and is supported in the middle by a carrier bearing. Any of which can go bad and cause exactly what you describe.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ The one for 97 does not have a section for the SOHC engine if that's what you're working on. But 99 is the same setup, and the 99 FSM has the SOHC engine section.

I used some random compressor we had at work. Probably could have opened the spring with a brake spring tool though. These things are not very tough.

90% of the time the guides are fine. If the valve jammed in the guide there will be physical damage to the guide. I'd be more worried about the valve seats than the guides. But even then, I wouldn't think twice about throwing a couple new valves in and putting it back together.

That depends on exactly what the problem is. If it's a wheel bearing, probably gonna want to take it to a dealer or at the very least a competent Subaru repair shop. The bearing itself is not expensive but needs to be pressed out of the hub and a new one pressed in. This also has to be done with a special tool to support the hub to prevent it from being deformed. Brake issue. You need to remove the caliper and try to move the slide pins. They should move easily. If either feels stiff or doesn't move at all they are contributing to the problem if not the main cause. Brake caliper grease, new pins, new dust boots if the old ones are ripped, should be good to go.

I've been running 75w-90 full synthetic in mine. It cured the cold second gear crunch I was getting with 80w90. I can't say if the synthetic oil has helped the trans any. It has developed some other issues during the time the synthetic has been in service. But it doesn't crunch going into second gear anymore.

Stuck brake caliper would be my guess. The slide pins are probably rusted so the caliper can not move away from the rotor. Pretty common problem. Other possibilities: The caliper piston is jammed. The rubber brake hose has deteriorated and has blocked the return of fluid from the caliper back into the line. edit: also what he said^

I have a Draw-Tite hitch on my truck. It's rusty but nothing like that!

Any API GL-5 spec gear oil. 80w-90. 75w-90. 75w-140 works great for high heat/high power applications, but the cost is generally overkill for a daily driver.

Is there any physical difference between the sensors? Size, connectors, thread? The sensors will work the same, regardless of type or size, but if your wire harness fits one sensor and not the other, use the one that fits if possible.

Christ is looks like a Toyota truck under there! Not to put any fault on your end, but... this is why you look under the car. :-\