Fairtax4me

Should have the latter half at least of a VIN stamped on it somewhere. Lower bell housing I think, passenger side? (not 100% so don't quote me). Engine size stamp is on the top of the block behind the alternator. Pretty easy to see. Old style tensioner could have been swapped. Betting the whole engine was swapped after the timing belt went and bent all the valves.

A new OE Subaru flywheel from an online dealer runs about $230. If your local dealer will match online pricing (many will in order to get your business) you can probably get it for that or very close. If not, it'll be ~$325. Not what he asked, but Rockauto does carry some good parts. Shipping is a bear, but you can get many parts that a local chain store often doesn't have or even carry, and some of the same parts for quite a bit less $$. Of the flywheels offered by Rockauto, AC Delco is overpriced but generally high quality. Sachs makes OE suspension and clutch parts for many European makers. Sachs parts are good quality. The rest, I have no clue.

There was a change in the linkage, no real change in the trans itself. Not real sure of the difference between sensors, could be the difference between automatic and manual trans. Either way, on the manual trans it's on the passenger side of the trans near the dipstick. You should be able to see it from above with little trouble.

You sure that's not 9779.2 miles?! That car is pristine! Good find.

Can white girls even get weaves?

I'd get one that's made for an Ej22. They may be the same in appearance and fitment but the weight or balance may be slightly different. This can cause internal issues. The harmonic balancer is designed to absorb crankshaft vibrations caused by the various sources of movement associated with the engine. Changing the way the crank is balanced and weighted can amplify some of those vibrations and cause bearing damage, cracks due to metal fatigue, and overall excessive wear of the internals. Best to stick with the right part.

It was. The main bearing prevents the shaft from moving during accel/decel. Because of the cut of the gears, when the bearing wears out the shaft will walk fore and aft, which causes the shift forks to push on the synchro hubs, and it knocks it out of gear.

Sounds kinda like a gummed up Idle control solenoid. The solenoid can be removed and cleaned in only about 15 minutes. You'll need a new gasket, it's only a few bucks from a dealer though.

Hide ya kids, hide ya wife, and hide ya Soobs cuz they stalkin errybody round he'ah!

I believe there are three LATCH attachment points in the back of the Outback, so it should be doable. I can't offer specifics on which seats to get though.

About 3 and a half hours? :-p The belt is squealing because it is slipping over the pulley rather than turning it. The voltage reads low because the alternator is not turning as fast as it should. In this case I would replace the belt, clean the pulleys with a wire brush and brake cleaner, and install a new belt set at the proper tension.

Intermittent problems are the hardest to track down. Was it raining or had it rained earlier in the day when this happened?

I don't think the carrier bearing is replaceable on these. It may just be the rubber bushing. There are some write ups out there for filling worn bushings with various types of goo to renew them. Otherwise, a replacement driveshaft is needed.

TheImportExperts can put together a kit of OE brand timing parts for about 1/2 the cost that a Subaru dealer would charge, even the online places. Just have to give them a call. They do not, as far as I can tell at least, carry the OE brand water pump. You should be able to get a Subaru pump from one of the online dealers for around $65-70 + shipping. Unless the crank pulley has failed (the two sections are separated), there is no real reason to replace it. Save the money.

Resurfacing should be around $40-60, and will work just fine. Some people don't even bother to resurface them.

[adult swim] But I did hear about Bin Laden. USA... ?

MMO is mostly a cleaner. Run it for 50 -100 miles or so and change the oil. MMO thins out the oil, and can clog the oil filter with dirt and particulate that it disolves and breaks loose from the crankcase. If enough crud gets in the filter oil will simply "go around" the filter media by way of the bypass valve in the filter. Then you get unfiltered oil running rampant through your engine. Never heard of adding it to the gas tank. I use Seafoam for that.

Knock sensor 101 and Replacement You already know where it is, but you may find some other useful info in that thread.

Did you do timing belt work to this engine? (too lazy to look up your other thread) Check your crankshaft pulley, it may have a case of "the wobbles", from the bolt not being tight enough.

Maybe spray some silicone on the outer axle boot and see if it goes away. Control arm bushings generally make noise during articulation, such as when going over speed bumps. Or they may clunk when driving or accelerating.

Sure it's not just a tire rubbing on the plastic wheel well liner?

I think every current Subaru model has window frames. The frame-less windows are cool and all, but they are a royal pita, and they make the car seem cheap when they get loose and rattle around. Window frames = no more rattly windows!

Welcome! Your English is better than some Americans. You spelling of some words isn't quite right, but it's good enough that we can tell what you're saying. Post some pics of your Brat!

Only a girl could claim to be a stalker and get a positive response.

I'd guess injectors, or the old manifold was cracked or improperly sealed and getting too much air. OR maybe it had a mouse nest in it and wasn't getting enough air? Either way, Glad to hear you got it fixed!