Fairtax4me

Live and learn. A used head or heads should work just fine, and be much cheaper than rebuilt or new replacements. I suspect someone here has already offered to help with parts.

I kinda wonder if a C frame press might fit up there if you drop the differential out of the way. Like 360 said, You can cut the old bushings out, but getting the new ones pressed in is going to be the trick.

Doesn't look any bigger. Jut looks like the current version with a face lift and a plastic engine. 36mpg Keep the price under 20 Gs and it'll be a hit.

Forester is going to eat up gas on the highway running well over 3000 rpm at 70 mph. The final drive gearing isn't conducive to fuel mileage at high speeds. But it has better ground clearance and better gearing for off road use than the outback. There are two different "Outback" models that often mistakenly get lumped into the same category. The Legacy Outback, and the Impreza Outback Sport. There is a big size difference between the two. The Legacy being the larger of the two. The under pinnings are mostly the same. But if it's room you need, be sure to pay attention to the model name, not just the "Outback" badge on the back of the car.

You're talking about the two bushings right next to each other that mount the differential housing to the rear cross member? Never heard of anybody needing to replace those. You'll have to let us know how it goes.

Absolutely do not ever use Limited Slip Differential additive of any kind in an automatic transmission.

Set the crank at TDC and make sure the arrows on both cam sprockets are pointing straight up. It's pretty easy to tell if the cam is off time when set at TDC, because all three arrows should be straight up and down. Don't pay attention to the notches in the cover.

That probably explains it. Abnormal tire wear is certainly an alignment issue.

Shouldn't be too hard. Just tap off one of the hot wires in the fuse panel. If you really want to do it well, find a blank where you can add a new fuse directly to the panel and run your power line from there.

Disc thickness really isn't as big of a deal as it may seem. With that kind of mileage the pressure plate (if original) is probably pretty weak, that's generally where your slipping clutch starts. Not to mention pilot and release bearings will be dry by now, which means it will only be a matter of time before they fail. Check Ebay for clutch kits. You can probably find an Exedy/Daikin kit (they make the factory clutch for Subaru) for under $150 shipped.

I'd steer clear of the paper gasket. But it's your car, if it's easier for you, go with it. The factory sealant comes off easily with a small brass wire brush and some cleaner. Cleaned with alcohol and a thin smear of new RTV or Anaerobic gasket maker it will never leak.

I'd guess it's timed wrong. 5 speed with 200k on it is probably going to have a fair amount of wear. (worn synchros and main shaft bearings) If they did the clutch when the engine was replaced, that will probably wear out soon too. Probably worth it to ask how old the clutch is. 850 sounds like a decent deal. Assuming the valves aren't hosed, you should have it driving again for practically nothing. Gonna be an expensive tow bill to get it home though.

Gonna bring this one back. 95 Legacy Ls wagon 2.2 AT My weekend trip of 240 miles used 9.1 gallons of gas. Works out to 26.4 mpg average. This was mostly 55-70 mph highway with about 25 miles of easy city driving. I knew it was bad because my 96 Sedan 2.2 Mt uses just a hair over 1/2 gauge to do basically the same trip. (it gets 33 mpg) This one went through more than 3/4 of the fuel gauge from full. I expected at least 28, think it should be closer to 30 highway.

Compression sounds good. Did you check the cam alignment at TDC as well as with the marks? Put a straight edge across the center of the cam and line it up with the timing mark. It should be pretty much straight up and down, the drivers cam should be turned just slightly clockwise ( less than ~2° ) if anything.

Nothing different. It's practically the same car, just with different body panels. They don't call these cars Legos for no reason.

He said it was just an O ring. And that O-ring should be replaced if the pump is removed. Good Oil pump writeup: http://beergarage.com/SubyOPump.aspx

When you see wheels like that on ANY car... just STAY AWAY! Don't even bother going to look at it. It's not what they look like, it's the fact that they're on the car. You have to ask yourself, why are those wheels on the car? Personal preference of the P/O? What else did they change/modify that can/will cause trouble in the future? Were the wheels replaced because the car was wrecked? How bad was the wreck? What else was damaged?

I think there's a button of some kind you have to push buried in the wiring under the dash somewhere. I don't recall exactly. Nope. That's a common problem. Broken solder joint on the PCB. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f77/oh-no-my-clock-doesnt-work-3350/ If you're not comfortable with a soldering iron, there's an ad in the classified section where one of our members has some already repaired clocks for sale.

You can replace the spring and O rings on the pressure bypass valve. But it's not really necessary. If oil pressure is low it's generally due to worn main bearings or worn pump housing/rotors. Neither of which is a common issue on the early Ej22.

Little PB will fix that right up! Kinda surprised that center didn't fall out.

Just to clarify... you are talking about a car. Right?! My sis is in her last few weeks of working on her Masters. Stressed out is an understatement for her. Good luck and hang in there.

I'd be down for a meet. As long as at least one of my soobs is capable of the trip.

Welcome! You'll find the Old gen forum has a lot of answers specific to your questions. The Off-road forum has a lot of good info on lifts and that sort of thing as well.

Gender identity issues? JK.

Look into Delta Cams for the 2.2 I haven't seen any real hp numbers, but several members here run them and claim big gains on the bottom end.