Fairtax4me

How about you start a new damn thread to argue interference vs non and stop cluttering up the OPs thread? To the OP, put a new belt on and see how it runs first. Once the belt is on, just put the crank pulley back on and start it for 15-20 seconds to see how it does.

That's a breather hose. Won't affect EGR operation. The EGR valve or pipe may be clogged and causing the code.

A lot of people on Di.com have talked about running the General Grabber AT2. Apparently its a near replica of the BFG All-Terrain T/A.

Flashing means there is a constant misfire. Get the codes read. When was the last time this car had a tune-up?

Correct.

You will feel a large amount of resistance when turning the crankshaft because you are compressing air in the cylinders. Once you reach top dead center (the top of the compression stroke) the compressed air will push the piston back down and cause the engine to kick. Check that the timing marks on the cams and crankshaft still line up with the notches in the covers, put some coolant in the engine and try to start it. If you removed the oil pump you need to crank the engine for about 30 seconds with no spark or fuel (unplug the igniter module on the firewall, and unplug the injectors) to build oil pressure before starting the engine.

They may leak indefinitely. Eventually it will fail, but it's hard to say if it will be in a month or 10 years.

If your tires are worn excessively they should be replaced sooner rather than later. We had a car towed to the shop yesterday that had been driving on the highway in heavy rain. Driver lost control and slid into the median, damaged the bumpers, bent two wheels and damaged some of the under carriage. All 4 tires were worn down to the wear bars. Wrecked a $100k car because they didn't replace the tires. Matching tire size is crucial in any AWD vehicle, whether it is a brand new 2011 model or an older car like your 02. If the tires on one axle are worn more than on the other, it causes the transfer unit in the transmission to wear. Eventually it will start to bind and cause problems when turning.

Imagine that! What year sti?

Opposedforces.com does not have parts listings for pre 95 MY Legacy so it won't be much help. However, damn near every part of the drivetrain should swap no problem. Engine electronics will be mostly the same.

Why do people always just assume the ECU is bad if a code won't go away after they change a few parts? Did you check any wiring? Hoses? The code itself isn't a tell all end all for diagnosis, but it helps narrow down the possibilities. Dig up an FSM for the car and see what it says about diagnosing the code.

Why the higher resistance for 2 and 4?

That's a good point. I've picked up small mounts of voltage in some circuits I've tested, but it's always way smaller. Usually less than 0.1v.

Close enough. The stuff they seal it with from the factory is grey.

Hopefully you get it figured out. These kinds of problems bug the hell out of me. I'm still stuck on trying to figure out why you have 0.8v on some of the fuses.

Unless the engine was running the alternator was probably not charging. Regardless, the yellow wire should still show 12V because it gets power from fuse 16. It should be 12V with the key ON.

I always thought the bottom was just a vinyl sticker. Not a big deal either way though. I wouldn't even bother with the compound on the bottom. Just clean and wax it.

There should still be 12V on the yellow wire at the alt from the fuse panel. Pin 1 is power for the pull side of the fuel pump relay, comes through fuse number 16. Pin 2 is power from SBF2 in the under hood fuse panel for the fuel pump. Regardless of relay operation you should still see 12V at pins 1 and 2 of the fuel relay with Key On. If you have 12V at the fuse panel, but not at the relay, what's in between the two? Ignition switch. The ignition switch, (the actual switch not the lock cylinder) is on the side of the steering column about halfway down. It has a 6 pin plug that should be black in color. There will be a couple of red wires, a black wire, and one or two others IIRC. One of those red wires will show 12V with the switch off. One will show 12V with the key in ACC position. Another will show 12V with key On.

Oh yeah! I gotta start a thread about my power steering pump leak too! And the broken exhaust hanger that mounts to the side of the transmission. And the rear wiper sprayer that just dribbles a little when I push the button. And... Oh and btw... for those interested. I found a brand name on the Subaru TB when I had it off. Unitta is currently making the timing belts for Subaru: http://www.unitta.co.jp/company/kaigai.html I went from one Gates belt to another. The one on my mothers Camry had only about 75k, but it was 13 years old. I caught it slapping the timing cover and replaced it before it broke.

Which two? You should see 12V on all 6 wires when the key is on if the relay is connected. If you unplug the relay, you should only have power on the the yellow wires and the green one. I would imagine it is because the fuel pump relay is not activating. The ECU controls the ground side of the relay. The main relay sends power to the ECU. If the ECU does not turn on, (say because the main relay is bad, or one of the power wires is not getting 12V) it can't ground the pump relay, so the pump doesn't get power. The main relay is a single pull double throw type relay. One coil pulls two separate gates. Either gate can fail, whether is due to a weak coil not pulling correctly, corrosion/arcing leading to wear of the contacts, or just long term use eventually wears it out. To determine if the relay is working properly, you need to check input and output power leads. The inputs are yellow, the outputs are yellow w/ red stripe. With key on you should see 12V on all four of those wires. That is the 12V+ for the relays. On those wires you should have 12V at both pins on the main, and the one pin on the fuel relay. If you have 12V at one or two, but not all three, there is a break in the wire. Which one? Is the key On?

If I'm understanding this correctly, you did your own research rather than taking what I had to say as fact! I was just trying to keep it simple, since it takes a lot more to explain exactly how the electricity flows in the wasted spark system. Yes it can be said that the plugs are connected in series, but the path of least resistance rule always applies. The coil still discharges to the plugs. So anywhere that the spark can arc it will. Any added resistance in the plugs or wires can cause the spark to not jump the gap in the plugs.

The fuel pump relay and main relay get power from the same source. One does not control power to the other. The power wire colors are the same on both.

Both yellow wires should have 12V. Both yellow / red should show 12V with ignition on. The green should be 12V with ignition on. The black/white is ground.

According to ShawnW, right next to the fuel pump relay. The main relay has 6 wires. All of them are fairly large. Two yellow, two yellow with red, one green and one black w/ white stripe.

Fixed! Now to move on to another part of the car that needs help, the steering rack bushings which are nearly non existent. Got a set of Whiteline bushings sitting on the shelf waiting. I never did compare belts. I was too caught up in the excitement of finally getting it put back together.