Fairtax4me

Correct. One full revolution of the crank equals one half revolution of the cam. I'd adjust the shims just like Torxxx says. Take the timing belt off and adjust one cam at a time. It has oil on it, you can spin it over a couple times without hurting anything. What's the difference between turning one at a time, and turning all of them at the same time?

If you renew online you can save $6! I've done that the past 3 or 4 times. Simple and quick. Then you get the stickers and new card in the mail in about a week.

Clean it off and see if it comes back. Maybe add in a bottle of Subaru coolant conditioner.

The pull side of the fuel pump relay gets power from fuse 16, then is grounded through the ECU. Both power wires on the relay are yellow. You should have 12v on both with the key ON. Did you check for power at the Main relay as well?

How many people go out of their way to avoid paying taxes? Someone or multiple someones will abuse the system and not send in the donations to the board. I think it's just far too involved to try to get a percentage or flat fee out of a private sale for a item listed on the board. The way I see it, it ends up working more like an online store, where transactions have to be handled through the board. That could work very well for the board if the volume of board based sales was high enough. But for a somewhat small board such as this, I think the cost will outweigh the benefit of having the infrastructure setup to work like that. For the tiered donation status suppose we don't use the typical Silver, Gold, Platinum, etc. Go with an approach that focuses less on monetary value, and come up with something more Subaru oriented?

Looks like the person on the other board was right. The fuel injectors get 12V power straight from the main relay. The injector grounds are switched by the ECU. The main (ignition) relay draws power from Slow Blow Fuse number 2 in the under hood fuse panel. You can check fuses with them still in the panel by placing the probe on the small tabs that stick out of the top of the fuse. This makes it easier to check if the fuse is blown. The main relay is grounded through the engine wiring harness. That ground point is on the back side of the drivers side head near the rear intake runner. Check that 12V is reaching the main relay on both of the two large yellow wires. Check resistance/continuity to chassis ground on the black and white wire at the relay connector. Throw side of the fuel pump relay (the side that delivers power to the pump) gets 12V from SBF2 as well.

The wiring for the rear O2 sensor runs from the sensor, along the driver side of the transmission, up over the bell housing to a block with 3 or 4 small plugs on top of the bell housing on the passenger side.

Does the SOHC 2.5 have the rear cam plug on the drivers side?

It's called "The Right Stuff". I don't recall who makes it but I've seen it at just about every auto parts store. I used anaerobic on mine, and It has held up very well so far.

Alot of people forget that aluminum is a very soft metal. The threads more than likely are pulled out of the bracket. Take the bracket off and clean it up and see how much thread if any there is that is still usable. If you have about 10mm of good threads past the stripped part just get a longer bolt and use the correct torque spec.

Give GD a holler. He'll get you hooked up. General Disorder

No. The resistance check is to see if the sensors are open (internal problem). The cam and crank sensors create a small AC voltage wave when the engine is running. You can check this with an analog voltmeter set to AC volt. The voltage is low, and the pulses happen faster than most digital meters are able to display. More than likely you will see no reading, or only small erratic reading with the meter shown in your pic. I can't make any sense of the wiring diagrams in the FSM right now. The diagram in the troubleshooting section says the coil gets power from the fuse panel through the main relay. The diagrams in the wiring section say coil power comes from the fuse panel, but not through the main relay. So I'm not sure which one is right. But either way, power for the coil comes through the fuse panel.

Probably plastic. Metal or plastic, at the very least reseal it while you have access.

I don't car for the Twit-Face craze, but I know plenty of people who are big into the social network scene. A USMB page on those sites may help bring more people here looking for help. Or might it just flood usmb with trolls or forum noobs who just want somewhere to waste time or ask more of the same questions? Then there are the ever present spammers. Take a poll on it? I've seen this done at larger forums. There are usually restricted access areas that only donors of a certain group can get into. Certain features on the board, storage space, discounts at the forum shop, things like that. Little perks to encourage larger donations. The idea to forward a percentage of a sale for an item listed in the classified section is good IMO, but it seems way too difficult to regulate. You would have to restrict communications between sellers and buyers to prevent under the table deals (someone would do it). Payments would have to be made through 3rd party software, which would undoubtedly add to the cost of running the board. How would you deal with items listed on multiple forums? 3Suubs' idea is much simpler, and free. Only allowing donating members to post items for sale could be a ticket to get more donations. Where is that Donation page anyway? I don't think I've ever seen it. Or I don't remember it at least.

The bolts that hold the carrier to the body, probably 12 or 14mm, I don't remember exactly. You will have to remove the skid plate on the diff carrier to allow the driveshaft to fall down. Then take the carrier bearing bolts out, the driveshaft will bend in the middle and the end will side out of the trans. Just buy a metric mechanics set from sears or something. If you don't have a 1/2" breaker bar get one of those too.

There is more than one yellow wire in the car. Which yellow wire do you want to run power to? Have you checked other fuses in the under hood fuse panel?

Also don't think the sales guy would be too happy about you jacking parts out of his ride while he waits. Seriously. Check a few more things before condemning the ECU. If you don't have the FSM for 1st gen legacy, you can get it here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Wait wait wait. You found corrosion on the coil pack, and damage to the post underneath the wire boot. Bad connection. Spark (electricity in general) takes the path of least resistance. If it finds that the least resistance means jumping the boot and arcing down the side of the coil that's what it's gonna do. In a wasted spark system, the two wires attached to each coil carry the spark in unison. This requires the wires and plugs to be of nearly equal resistance. If one side has higher resistance than the other, which way is the spark going to go? Replace coil pack.

Only after warmup? Did you replace the ECT sensor? This is a clue. How about a jumped timing belt?

Ground problem is a possibility. DO you have low voltage on any other fuses? What about at the under hood fuse panel?

Several wires there appear to be pinched which means they could be broken internally. Check the smaller cable from comes from the battery terminal to the bottom of the main fuse panel under the hood.

No that's good. The tab does not sit directly center under the sensor when lined up properly. The little notch mark on the sensor housing is the timing mark. It is a few mm right of center. Your crank is lined up perfect there. 9V at rest is not nearly enough. What is your voltage at the battery posts at rest? Have you checked voltage while cranking?

Yeah just take whatever the Haynes says with a grain of salt. Setting at TDC is useful in certain situations, but removing the belts is not one of them. Set the cams at their proper timing marks and make note of the position of the marks relative to the notches in the covers before removing the belt. (this is especially important on DOHC engines to prevent cam "snap" which happens when the loaded cam slips position and the valve spring pressure forces it to turn) Sometimes the marks don't line up exactly with the covers. The passenger side on my wagon is nearly a full tooth width off from the notch in the cover. You can't see it when looking at the hash mark, but if the engine is set at TDC (the arrows mark TDC) it's plainly evident the passenger cam is not lined up properly.

Depending on the market. About $5-10. You'll have a core charge on the junkyard trans of about $20-25 though. Take the broken trans back to them (doesn't matter if it's messed up, just put the case back together first) and you get the money back.

The belts can be tricky to get right. I use a 17mm wrench to turn the drivers side cam clockwise just a tooth or two, set the belt then pull the slack out by turning the wrench back CCW. When the belt pulls taught all the way around (back to the crank) and the mark lines up then you got it right. Check fuse number 16 in the dash board fuse panel. That gives power to the coil. The diode isn't in line between the fuse panel and coil. The diode is between the main relay and ECU. Your ~4V at the igniter is reference voltage from the ECU. We can call taht irrelevant for right now. It is a sign that the ECU is at least delivering power to the various sensors and electronics on the engine, but it doesn't mean much as far as the no spark problem is concerned.