Fairtax4me

Guess I better just bite the bullet and get a new one. Don't really wan't to spend the money on it right now, but I don't really feel like taking it apart again either. Thanks guys

Got the engine out of my 95. Doing seals gaskets, timing stuff, all the goodies. I noticed this when I had it apart to do the head but figured it wasn't worth worrying over then. The tensioner (piston style) appears to be leaking. There is some heavy grey goo around the seal, and it has pooled into about enough to make a single drop down at the bottom. Is that something that should warrant replacement of the tensioner? I don't guess it's a big deal being on a 95 Ej22. If it fails and the belt jumps, I can just re-time and go. But that probably means it will happen at the worst possible time, leaving me stranded in the middle of the night 40 miles from home in the pouring rain.

Got a spare bulb to swap in? Checked fuses?

Nice roof! JK. Car looks good besides the rust. Don't park it over those oil spots for too long. It'll get ideas...

Did this issue start immediately after the tune up? If not, how long ago was the tune up and how long would you say it has been doing this? What was replaced during the tune up?

I suppose you could if you were dead set determined, or a "Tuff man", but I'm neither, plus I'm lazy. I just use a wrench. Pull the bolts out until they hit the frame, pull the head back about 2 inches, rotate the top of the head towards the block as you lift up and pull away from the block.

If you use cheap gas a fuel system cleaner is a good thing to use once a month or so. Never heard of one hurting anything, except maybe someones wallet.

I agree with John. An intermittent knock falls into the idler bearing/tensioner category. Would be helpful to know exactly when the noise occurs though. Cold? warm? During throttle change? Shifting, turning, braking? How loud is it? Rod knock is almost deafening at 2000 rpm.

Voltage that low when running means the alternator is not charging as it should. If you have a local re-builder that might be the most cost effective option. Auto parts store alternators can be hit or miss. A Subaru reman unit is generally the best as far as quality is concerned, but dealer parts are $$$.

Ehh maybe. They might have put the TB on wrong.

95 Impreza still had OBD1 IIRC. She should be able to check DTC codes herself by simply connecting two plugs under the dash. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

What do you mean by interference? You will not be able to spin the camshaft a full revolution by hand if that's what you are expecting.

Do you feel any rumble or shudder on hard acceleration from a stop?

For your next belt order an entire timing kit from TheImportExperts on Ebay. Belt all idlers and water pump. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-1996-Subaru-Legacy-Impreza-2-2-Timing-Belt-Kit-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5642e4ff7bQQitemZ370489491323QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2800wt_958 Get a head gasket from Subaru. Get your head surfaces 100% shiny clean metal before installing. You'll need to follow the bolt torque procedure to a T. If you have a Haynes manual the procedure outlined there is correct.

Duty C controls fluid pressure on the AWD transfer clutch pack and will not affect driving at speed. It sounds like a misfire. Tune-up first.

Drivers side cam there will be valve spring pressure on the cam at TDC. Passenger side the valves are all closed at TDC so there is no spring pressure on the cam. You can turn the passenger side easily about 30° before the cam lobes start to push on the rocker arms. You will not be able to do so with the drivers side cam until you get the cam ~180° off TDC position. Stripped teeth on a new belt could indicate either idler sprocket failure, impoper belt tension, or foreign material in the belt or sprockets. Or it could just be a faulty belt. With all the head bolts loose pull the head away from the block and lift at an angle to remove from the engine compartment.

Check the owners manual for fluid specifications. As long as the fluids you buy meet those specifications you shouldn't have any problems.

You have to lift the engine partially before it can be separated. Support the transmission either from below with a jack, or with a ratchet strap hooked around the pitch mount bracket to the bracket on the firewall. If you have the DOHC 2.5 that year should only have 2 nuts on the bottom of the bell housing, and 2 bolts at the top holding the engine to the trans. Make sure the 4 bolts are removed from the torque converter, and the converter is slid back away from the flywheel. Pound a flat head screw driver into the seam in the bell housing and work your way around prying it apart.

I didn't think they were that bad when tightening. Definitely would have been a chore with a shorter bar though. Getting the bolts loose was a job though. Felt like I was going to twist the bolt heads off. They all turned almost 45° before the threads cracked loose.

I just did one in car. I'd probably pull the engine if I were doing both. You can only get about 45° at a time when tightening the head bolts with the engine in the car. Unless maybe you use a really short breaker bar.

A worn axle might cause a vibration, but that has nothing to do with the stub that sticks out of the differential. DO NOT play around with the housings that hold the differential bearings. Those set the differential carrier bearing preload and ring gear backlash. Incorrect adjustment of either one will result in failure of the differential. Adjustment will not change the amount of "wiggle" of the stub. Do you axles have green paint on the CV joint cups? If not they are not Subaru axles and may be the cause of your vibration. When does this vibration/shimmy occur?

What year and model? I got Fuel Temp Sensor A Circuit. But Subaru's definitions can vary from those of other sources.

If you wanna have some real fun practice starting uphill on wet grass. Probably lose some of the effect with an AWD Subaru, but that's how I learned in my grandpas 86 rwd Toyota pickup.

So, they got it fixed? I always thought the hill holder worked the back brakes, but I suppose it can work at either end just the same. They must have just had the adjustment way out of whack to lock the brakes up.

What John said. Bulbs first, wires later.