Fairtax4me

Did this issue start immediately after the tune up? If not, how long ago was the tune up and how long would you say it has been doing this? What was replaced during the tune up?

I suppose you could if you were dead set determined, or a "Tuff man", but I'm neither, plus I'm lazy. I just use a wrench. Pull the bolts out until they hit the frame, pull the head back about 2 inches, rotate the top of the head towards the block as you lift up and pull away from the block.

If you use cheap gas a fuel system cleaner is a good thing to use once a month or so. Never heard of one hurting anything, except maybe someones wallet.

I agree with John. An intermittent knock falls into the idler bearing/tensioner category. Would be helpful to know exactly when the noise occurs though. Cold? warm? During throttle change? Shifting, turning, braking? How loud is it? Rod knock is almost deafening at 2000 rpm.

Voltage that low when running means the alternator is not charging as it should. If you have a local re-builder that might be the most cost effective option. Auto parts store alternators can be hit or miss. A Subaru reman unit is generally the best as far as quality is concerned, but dealer parts are $$$.

Ehh maybe. They might have put the TB on wrong.

95 Impreza still had OBD1 IIRC. She should be able to check DTC codes herself by simply connecting two plugs under the dash. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

What do you mean by interference? You will not be able to spin the camshaft a full revolution by hand if that's what you are expecting.

Do you feel any rumble or shudder on hard acceleration from a stop?

For your next belt order an entire timing kit from TheImportExperts on Ebay. Belt all idlers and water pump. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-1996-Subaru-Legacy-Impreza-2-2-Timing-Belt-Kit-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5642e4ff7bQQitemZ370489491323QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2800wt_958 Get a head gasket from Subaru. Get your head surfaces 100% shiny clean metal before installing. You'll need to follow the bolt torque procedure to a T. If you have a Haynes manual the procedure outlined there is correct.

Duty C controls fluid pressure on the AWD transfer clutch pack and will not affect driving at speed. It sounds like a misfire. Tune-up first.

Drivers side cam there will be valve spring pressure on the cam at TDC. Passenger side the valves are all closed at TDC so there is no spring pressure on the cam. You can turn the passenger side easily about 30° before the cam lobes start to push on the rocker arms. You will not be able to do so with the drivers side cam until you get the cam ~180° off TDC position. Stripped teeth on a new belt could indicate either idler sprocket failure, impoper belt tension, or foreign material in the belt or sprockets. Or it could just be a faulty belt. With all the head bolts loose pull the head away from the block and lift at an angle to remove from the engine compartment.

Check the owners manual for fluid specifications. As long as the fluids you buy meet those specifications you shouldn't have any problems.

You have to lift the engine partially before it can be separated. Support the transmission either from below with a jack, or with a ratchet strap hooked around the pitch mount bracket to the bracket on the firewall. If you have the DOHC 2.5 that year should only have 2 nuts on the bottom of the bell housing, and 2 bolts at the top holding the engine to the trans. Make sure the 4 bolts are removed from the torque converter, and the converter is slid back away from the flywheel. Pound a flat head screw driver into the seam in the bell housing and work your way around prying it apart.

I didn't think they were that bad when tightening. Definitely would have been a chore with a shorter bar though. Getting the bolts loose was a job though. Felt like I was going to twist the bolt heads off. They all turned almost 45° before the threads cracked loose.

I just did one in car. I'd probably pull the engine if I were doing both. You can only get about 45° at a time when tightening the head bolts with the engine in the car. Unless maybe you use a really short breaker bar.

A worn axle might cause a vibration, but that has nothing to do with the stub that sticks out of the differential. DO NOT play around with the housings that hold the differential bearings. Those set the differential carrier bearing preload and ring gear backlash. Incorrect adjustment of either one will result in failure of the differential. Adjustment will not change the amount of "wiggle" of the stub. Do you axles have green paint on the CV joint cups? If not they are not Subaru axles and may be the cause of your vibration. When does this vibration/shimmy occur?

What year and model? I got Fuel Temp Sensor A Circuit. But Subaru's definitions can vary from those of other sources.

If you wanna have some real fun practice starting uphill on wet grass. Probably lose some of the effect with an AWD Subaru, but that's how I learned in my grandpas 86 rwd Toyota pickup.

So, they got it fixed? I always thought the hill holder worked the back brakes, but I suppose it can work at either end just the same. They must have just had the adjustment way out of whack to lock the brakes up.

What John said. Bulbs first, wires later.

Buy it cheap and chuck a 2.2 in it. Way cheaper and easier than reviving the 2.5.

If that engine was dropped or the car was wrecked there could be damage to the camshaft or bearing journals in the cylinder head. The cam rides directly in the head on these, no replaceable bearing, so any damage means replacing the entire head. There is also the possibility the crankshaft was struck in the same event that caused the other damage. Excessive force on the crankshaft can damage the thrust bearing, or score the main bearings which could result in catastrophic failure. I'd stay clear of the Phase 1 Ej25 anyway, moreso one that has accident damage.

Just lean the other way. Or drive from the middle like a thug. I guess I'll never know, but the combination of things just spells disaster IMO. Subaru AVLS is nothing remotely similar to Honda Vtec. AVLS advances camshaft timing, but does not change valve lift or open duration like Vtec does. The lift and duration change of Vtec is why you can hear the pitch of the engine change when Vtec "kicks in".

Doesn't mean you shouldn't use it. Around here people that don't use it either get stuck in park or their car pops out of park and rolls away.