Fairtax4me

Good to hear! You still need a good MAF? I can get them for under $30 from the "local" U pull (hour away) Is it the AA160?

The little yellow icon at the top of the text box that has little mountains on it. Click that and enter the url of the image. OR click manage attachments and follow the links to upload images directly to the site. Might be the oil pump seal. You need a little $2 O ring from the dealer, and a tube of anaerobic sealer to reseal the pump. The pressure bypass valve has a round plug with an allen head cap on it. IIRC there is just a copper washer under that to seal it. But be careful removing that as there are some springs that may come flying out. Check out Beergarage.com for pics of the oil pump.

That's also part of the reason alot of makers got rid of temp gauges entirely. They have this type of circuitry on gas gauges too. People complain because the needle moves. IM OUT OF GAS!!! Haul around the corner to get to the gas station. "Oh nvm I got a half tank." Sputter cough die. Tow it to dealer. "Its out of gas". "But it said I had a half tank!"

They should be able to. As long as whoever does the actually knows what he/she is doing. The battery is typically under the most load during starting. Most places use a load tester that simulates the draw of the starter on the battery during cranking. Some of the new more advanced testers pull a smaller draw and measure voltage drop over time to determine if the battery is holding it's charge properly. Either one is just as effective. Alternator testers will measure voltage as well as amp output and make sure both are within range. If they know how to use the machine, they should test the diodes in the alternator as well. If it turns out you need one, 1stSubaruparts.com sells reman alternators for the 95 to 99 models for under $70. The part is the same except for the wire connector on the back of it. Snag a connector from a junkyard and splice it in and you're set for under $100 if you can wait for shipping.

Who needs a wiring diagram? It's a Dodge, a gallon of gas and a match will fix it just like new. To find a short, hook up your meter and pull each fuse, one at a time, until you find which one cuts the voltage. If none of them do, it might be a short in the fuse panel.

Have a link to the FSM for 92. That should help right? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Slippage? Sounds like a bad clutch. The center diff doesn't slip. I mean, it does, but not the way I think you're probably thinking. Might have just been wheel slip. The front and rear diffs are open so if one wheel loses traction (e.g. comes of the ground) it will just fly, and the other side will sit still. The beauty of the center diff on these is that it keeps power going to both front and rear diffs regardless of traction on the front or rear axles. If you get two wheels off the ground, one from each axle, you're SOL.

Did you first check to make sure the connections on the battery are clean and tight? Did you have the alternator tested yet? What about the battery? The alternator has a field wire that it uses to check system voltage. If the system voltage is too low (below 9v I think) it stops charging altogether to protect itself. If you measure 7v at the charge lead on the alternator, that doesn't mean the alternator is only producing 7v, as you are still measuring battery voltage when that charge lead is connected. (the other end is connected to the battery) You would have to disconnect the charge lead from the alternator to get an accurate measurement of alternator output voltage. But that won't tell you what amperage the alt is producing, and you need both voltage and amperage in order to charge. Right now the prognosis is not good for your alternator, but you don't want to put a new alternator in just to have a bad battery kill it in a month. If you have a battery charger, put a full overnight charge on the battery, and do your test again with it fresh off the charger. If the results are similar, the battery is bad.

Check the fusible link in the main fuse box to see if it has burned. Unplug it and try to tug it apart from the ends using moderate force. If should feel solid. If it's stretchy or breaks it's blown. SBF 6 provides power for the ABS motor/control module, and the TCS motor relay. If one of those has an internal short or one of the motors is locked that's generally what will cause that fuse to blow. This could also be mouse damage. SBF 2 gives power to the Main relay, ECM, Fuel pump relay, and OBD2 service connector. The main relay distributes power to several sensors on the engine, as well as the fuel injectors, but nothing ignition related. This being blown would mean the engine doesn't get any fuel. Are you sure it is spark that you don't have? Not fuel? But the same story here, something would have to be shorted or pulling a high draw to blow that fuse. Although as slow blow fuses age they become weaker and can blow out at any time. Ignition-wise, both the Ignitor and Ignition coil get power from fuse number 16 in the interior fuse panel. Is any of this related to the starter cable being loose, that's hard to say. Loads of electrical current hopping around and arcing can create a ton of problems. I'd like to think this is just coincidence, but the timing sure is convenient. Any of the circuits on the engine could have backfed current from the starter back to the fuse box and popped fuses and relays. It's hard to say though. I'd check over all of the fuses, including the interior panel, and double check that nothing else is blown.

If you have a lift. It's easier to pull the engine. There was a thread just a week or so ago with a good list of things that should be done along with the clutch. Somebody needs to make a "Clutch list" and put it in the FAQ thread.

I've been looking for dyno info about one of these motors for a while. I read through pages and pages on NASIOC, and here, and didn't find much. One reported test on NASIOC put a franken-motor 2.5 block, 2.2 heads, with delta torque cams at 125whp. No mention of torque though. That was about it. Some people talked about getting theirs dynoed, but I never could find any threads about them actually following though. If you find anything else about them post it up. I think there are a few others on this board interested as well. If neither block has been overheated, either one should do fine. I'd do compression tests on both and pick the better of the two.

Sounds like a sticky solenoid. If you've ever spilled a drink in the center console that can do it. Pull the shifter trim up and find the brake solenoid and hit it with some lithium grease and hit the pedal a few times to get it worked in. If that doesn't free it up removing it and cleaning it with electronics cleaner then regreasing might fix it. Could also be a bad shift cable. They can get water in them when the rubber ends get old and crack. The water freezes at night and the cable seizes. Obviously a warming exhaust system under the car would eventually allow it to melt and work freely again. Replacement is the only viable option for a permanent fix if that's the case. I'd look in the shifter mechanism for trouble there first though.

HG change mistakes will rear their ugly little bastard heads in a couple of ways, none of which will be subtle. If it isn't acting up now, only time will tell if they sealed well enough to last.

Clutch is shot. The only other thing in a subaru manual transmission that would cause that type of behavior is a borked center differential, and that wouldn't go slowly, or quietly.

That's a dangerous game. No way I'd run anything other than Premium gas in a F/I engine. Especially at high boost levels. Good tuning can only do so much to prevent pre-ignition. The fuel makes the difference between safe and destroyed. Car-part.com is well known around these parts. Excellent resource for parts for any make of car. Thanks for posting the link for others to find.

Normal running temp is in the 190 - 210°F range. Depending on conditions and driving situation. The expansion tank is not ideal for an accurate measurement of coolant temperature. Get your temp gun under the intake manifold and check temperature of the crossover pipe. This is where the ECT sensor is mounted, and being aluminum it should show a number closer to the actual internal coolant temp on a warm engine. Of course the most accurate way is to check ECT with a scanner or gauge with a sensor attached to the engine so that it can measure coolant temp rather than external temp of engine components.

The drives seat in my car was completely shot when I got it. I could feel the bars in the support structure through the seat cover. The foam was completely collapsed after 14 years and 165k miles. I found a decent seat in the junkyard and swapped covers. Much better, but the "new" seat is beginning to suffer the same fate after about a year. I'll have to find another one before long. Hopefully out of a much newer vehicle.

My mother and sister both bought one of those. They both love them. I, on the other hand, can't stand them. Not sure what it is, they just don't fit me. Chances are the seat is just worn out from age. One of those lumbar do-hickies might help, or find seats with adjustable lumbar support that aren't worn.

Just because you know of a few doesn't mean its smart. I know of a few as well. Have seen a more than a few more end up wrecked. Driver sensability helps, but when the car can't be controlled, it doesn't matter who the driver is.

Ej22t compression ratio is something like 8:1 or 8.5:1. Lower compression allows for greater efficiency and reliability on turbo motors. Dunno about the bore and stroke. Pretty sure I've seen it somewhere around here though. Whats the reason for the swap? Dead 2.5? Just want more power? Ej22T are probably the least easy to find of any EJ series engine.

The brake pedal is normal for a parked car that has no vacuum in the booster servo. Does the pedal feel return to normal once the is engine running? The steering lock not engaging points to a lock cylinder problem. Unfortunately I don't have any knowledge of the intricacies of the ignition locks on the newer models. I don't know if it's a transponder issue with the car not recognizing the key, or if there is some mechanical linkage that is just jammed or maybe broken. I wouldn't usually recommend excessive force, but you might try turning it harder. Just try not to break the key off in the lock. Hopefully it doesn't ruin your Christmas. :-\

If not... go back and grab a set of heads.

Picking a good block without hearing it run is a crap shoot. And even then, you don't ever really know. But this is the same story with any engine. There is no way to tell without tearing it down and inspecting it. And then you might as well rebuild it. CCR sells rebuilt 2.5 shortblocks for a good price from what I understand, and they seem to be the leader in quality and precision for rebuilt Subaru engines. A DIY rebuild is gonna run $700 - $1000 for stock spec. Having a shop clean, mill, and hone the block is a few hundred usually, another couple hundred or so to have a set of heads reworked.

Ahh ok. Easily doable. The bolt holes are there, just need the tensioner, pulley, and bolts to hold it on AFAIK. Only two ways to find out if you got bent valves. Try to start it, or remove the heads. Sometimes you can see the bent one(s). Removing the valves and rolling them will reveal the crooked ones. Or just have them pressure tested.

Any NGK plug will do fine. You are 17k miles overdue for a timing belt change. Basically driving on borrowed time with the 2.5 going past a belt interval. If it breaks, your gonna be out of a couple grand to get that engine running again.