Fairtax4me

It might work. I guess technically all you need to see is a blip in voltage as the engine turns. Most digital meters aren't sensitive enough to show the quick jumps that an analog meter will show. Analog meters are usually pretty cheap though. Doesn't hurt to try the digital and see what you get though! http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482362000P?prdNo=23&blockNo=23&blockType=G23 Probably find an even cheaper one at wallyworld.

The reason for blocking the rear sensor is that the ECU looks for a change in voltage at the rear sensor compared to the front sensor. The change in voltage is reflective of the change in oxygen content in the exhaust after the catalytic converter does it's work. It has to see a lower voltage reading from the rear sensor in order to determine that the cat is working properly. Removing or partially removing the rear sensor from the exhaust stream effectively lowers (or is it raises... I can't ever remember which way that goes ) the voltage that the sensor sends back to the ECU, which tricks it into thinking the cat is working well, even if it's not there. I can't say exactly why the code hasn't come back, but it very well could have something to do with the blockage of the front sensor. Now that's interesting. They must have had the same idea you had. Or is there where you got your inspiration? Either way. It seems to have worked for you, consequences yet to be seen, hopefully it lasts.

Black is the signal wire. Ground to engine block or outer housing of the sensor. You're looking for a signal in the 0.0 to +1.0V range.

Hmmm... Where did you see clear fluid? Was this on the dipstick? If so, which side of the trans was it on? Or did you drain fluid from the trans? And again, if so, where on the bottom of the trans did you find the drain plug?

Sounds like the idle control motor might be gummed up and is sticking. A good cleaning should help that. Theres a hose that runs from the idle control valve, which is mounted to the backside of the intake manifold on the passenger side, to the bottom of the intake tube. Pop that hose off the intake (easier said than done), wrap a piece of duct tape around the opening on the intake tube to keep it from sucking in air, start the engine and block the throttle open slightly so the engine speed is up around 1500 rpm. This will help prevent the engine from stalling while you pour cleaner down the hose that goes to the IAC. You can either use Seafoam, or a spray can of Intake system/throttle body cleaner. Seafoam: Slowly (over the course of a minute or so) pour about half of the can into the hose. With a spray cleaner, just press the button and shoot the cleaner in. If the engine RPM gets too low or stalls, stop adding cleaner and let it smooth out for a second. Then you can start pouring/spraying again.

I need to hide my car then... you might try to take mine. As far as I know any 90-96 EJ22 will work. 90 - 94 you might have to swap the intake and some sensors around, but the engine by itself is the same. Just need to make sure you get one with EGR, otherwise you'll have a permanent CEL.

These cars rarely have plugged cats. And quite often even if the whole system is replaced,even with brand new Subaru parts, it still doesn't get rid of the code. Props for DIY ingenuity! But there are cheaper and easier ways to do the same thing if you just do some reading. As for restricting flow around the front O2 sensor. That's a problem. The front O2 sensor adjusts fuel mixture, so preventing exhaust from flowing across it can cause performance issues. Bad fuel mileage, driveability problems, etc. Put your blocker on the rear O2 sensor, because that's the one that checks the efficiency of the cat.

Don't know that I would be worried so much about it leaking, as I would about it rubbing or blocking something. If it's in there really deep it's probably going to be a pain to get the thing back out. Be careful and don't scratch the crank. On most seals I usually use a small smear of sealer on the outside, but these moulded silicone types will seal themselves. Just use some oil or grease to lubricate the outer edge to help it slide in. And always lubricate the inner part that rides against the crank with fresh motor oil.

Go to advance or autozone or checker or napa or whatever, and buy a foot of appropriate sized rubber emissions hose. Do NOT get heater hose, it will swell and give you more problems than you have now. Emissions hose is made for oil/fuel so it will not swell or harden like ordinary rubber hose. Well we know where your mind is!

It's a vacuum leak. Can cause rough idle, misfires under load, etc.

My sister has the same car. The front motor mount does move quite a bit. A clunk when starting would indicate something mount related though. Find a nice big prybar, and stick it between the block and the exhaust manifold. Then use it to pry the engine around while you listen for something to make an obvious noise. Do it with the engine off. Check the movement of all of the mounts (the ones you can see at least). You can also put the prybar close to each mount and move it around looking for excessive movement. Also check the exhaust system for broken/loose hangers.

You have to unplug the sensors to test them. Across the terminals on the sensor you should get 1-4k Ω. With an analog meter test voltage across the terminals on the sensor while cranking the engine. You can also remove the sensor and wave a screwdriver or other metal object past the end of the sensor while testing to see if the needle on the meter moves. You're probably right!

Heres a good write-up with pics for the oil separator. http://beergarage.com/SubySeparator.aspx It sounds like you have all of the common leaks on subarus. But the plugged PCV valve was causing higher crankcase pressure which contributed to oil pushing out through some of the seals. Replace the PCV, degrease the engine and check for leaks again in a few weeks.

Poor battery connection. Check the cables at both ends for tight and clean.

This is why sunroof assemblies are made of aluminum nowadays. I digress. If you have water in the assembly, its because the drain tubes are plugged and are not allowing water to drain properly. Usually they can be flushed out by running water though them. But if that doesn't work you'll have to carefully run a wire or something of that nature down the tube to knock the crud out.

Using water to troubleshoot bad plug wires is a fairly common technique. But plug wire arcing makes a quick clicking type of sound that you probably wouldn't hear in the car, and you would feel a difference in power and may get a CEL. This is a clue! Where in the center console? Towards the front? Towards the rear? More in the center?

God I cant wait for it to snow! I need to put the lift and the snow tires on, but honestly, I'm in no rush. I say, BRING IT ON!!!

No need to remove any covers or belts or pulleys to get to either the crank or cam sensors as far as I know. From the 95 FSM It's that easy.

Unlike the olds, changing the CPS is very much NOT a pain on these. It is dead front and center of the engine right up top. I'm not even sure you have to remove anything else to get it out. You can see it plain as day under the alternator. That and the Ignitor module are the two main reasons for no spark. The CPS is much easier to check though. Just hook an analog multimeter to it and crank the engine. If the needle sweeps back and forth the sensor is likely good. Test the cam sensor the same way. Check the timing belt closely for missing teeth, even though it isn't broken.

Note to self : no HLA on 97 2.2

You might be able to get something out of it. Problem is the engine has to start before the ECU runs it's diagnostic checks. Unless you have a wiring problem the ECU probably doesn't know anything more than you do until you can get it to start. Three things needed to start. Spark, fuel, compression. Check for those and find out which one(s) you do not have.

You gotta have some kinda tricks to crack a manual trans flywheel. I'd rate that around - (negative) 10% chance of being the problem. Clutch job at a shop for $475. That sounds right for an independent/shadetree mechanic, but a couple hundred low for a full kit and labor at an independent shop. I would suspect they just replaced the disc, and left the pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing alone. Valve adjustment, no. That engine has hydraulic lash adjusters ( I think) so adjustment is done automatically. Might be a lifter bleeding down, but those are pretty distinct. Lifter noise doesn't just come and go with throttle application. If it's there it will be evident, and when it's gone it will pretty much stay gone unless there is some sort of oil pressure problem.

Perfect! In that case, you probably have a backfeed from elsewhere. Now you just have to track it down. Easier said than done sometimes. But as I said before, start pulling fuses to see if you can isolate the problem circuit. Even if you can't get it narrowed down to one, you can at least get an idea of where the power is coming from. Lets say you pull one fuse and one of your problem areas turns off (say the blower fan) but the rest stay on, you can rule out anything powered by that fuse for being the source of the back feed. You can also pull all of the fuses one at a time and check the outgoing sides of each for voltage. Obviously you should only have 12v on one side the other should be 0. If you find voltage you can check each leg of the harness from that fuse.

O2 sensors can cause problems with idle and driveability but only when the engine is warm. If you have the same problems when cold the O2 sensor is probably not the cause.

Better not tell them you don't like weed or acetone then. Well I assume that since you have the brackets you got them from a junked car (can't imagine ordering those from a dealer but I could be wrong?) Do you happen to still have access to said car to drop the fuel tank or move it so you an get an idea of what goes under that part of the floor where the brackets bolt on?