Fairtax4me

Brilliant!

If they were 245 45 17's I'd take them off your hands in a heartbeat. 225 is too thin though for what I have.

It's not staying on 0. What are some other other readings? Map? Maf? IAT? ST/LT FT? Try to get these while it's acting up.

Depending on what kind of tires you buy, they might be 150 a piece.

DOHC 2.5 head installation and torque sequence from MY99 FSM.

What are you bolting down? Could you try making a couple brackets and attaching it to the seat belt mounting bolts under the rear seat?

I just had the same idea and took a look at the 99 FSM (don't have 98). FB-4 Engine control module Fuel pump relay Ignition coil Transmission control module FB-17 Rear defogger timer FB-18 AT shift lock control module Back-up light switch (MT) Inhibitor switch (AT) FB-19 Hazard switch FB-20 A/C switch Combination meter Mode control panel Rear defogger timer TCS off switch FB-22 Blower motor relay Check connector Daytime running light control module Daytime running light relay FRESH/RECIRC actuator Hi-beam relay Keyless entry control module Power window and sunroof relay Seat belt timer Security control module Vehicle speed sensor (MT) Wiper deicer relay Wiper deicer timer FB-23 Airbag control module FB-24 Airbag control module FB-25 Lighting switch IG Headlight alarm relay All of these draw power from the ignition switch. So the question is... is the ignition switch out of adjustment or faulty and allowing a small amount of current through when it's in the off position? Or is power back-feeding from one of the sources listed? Lots of options there. Of course this is all for 99 so 98 may be a bit different. You can narrow it down by pulling fuses for these in the interior fuse panel under the dash. Depends on the type of circuit. Some makers switch the ground side of the light circuit. So any short to ground in the circuit between the lights and the switch would make the lights stay on.

Not hard at all really. Takes a few hours though, about a day the first time around. If you have some basic tools, access to either an engine lift or a large jack, and a friend who's wiling to help you can do it yourself. You can either lift the engine out, or drop the transmission to get access to the clutch. Either way is pretty straight-forward on these. Most people on the boards here, who do clutches regularly, pull the engine out, unless there is some other reason to remove the trans, such as to replace the input shaft seal.

Just plan on it not lasting much longer. Order an Exedy/Diakin clutch kit (oe suppliers) and keep it around for when you need it.

Do all of your signal/brake light bulbs work? A common point for feedback is through dual filament bulbs where one filament breaks and falls across the other one. Try pulling fuses/relays until you find which circuits have the draw.

Might also double check the adjustment of the throttle and cruise cables. Just for kicks.

Theres a little cap at the base of the arm with a nut under it. Remove the cap and nut, then tug/pry the wiper arm off. Usually takes a bit of effort but wiggling up/down will help pop it loose.

Is this the original clutch? I've "smoked" the clutch in my 96 twice in the last year. (brand new in Jan.) I gambled on the cheapest clutch kit I could find and it hasn't turned out to be the best decision. Surprised? It is VERY easy to get it hot to the point that it smokes, it chatters on damp mornings, and chatters really bad when it's hot. I'm actually kinda hoping it will wear out fast so I'll have an excuse to replace it with a better quality kit. Anyway, a cheap clutch will do exactly what you describe, but so will a good one that is on it's way out.

Remove the wiper arms and pull the cowl panel off to get access underneath to clean it out. It's just held on by some clips.

Tried putting a foot on the clutch pedal when it starts making this noise? (seems like I might have suggested that before... ) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=965497&postcount=8

Stock 09 Forester X tire size is 225/55/17. They'll fit but be mindful of the height difference. Loss in ground clearance is one thing, you're talking about a roughly 7.5% difference in circumference which will make the speedometer read slow by ~5mph at 60. This will also throw off the odometer by the same amount. Plus they're gonna look funny. 45 profile is reallllly short on a 225 width.

Could be the linkage on the wiper motor itself if neither wiper moves.

There is a pin on the ECU that has to be grounded (on US models anyway) that tells the ECU whether to control for manual or automatic trans. Not sure if the pinouts are the same between the US and NZ models, but try searching the forum here and you might find which pin it is.

Wheres my news paper? Front to back makes the difference of your center transfer unit wearing out. Larger tires on one axle (front vs rear) will create a difference in driveshaft speeds, which causes the transfer unit clutches to slip constantly when the vehicle is in motion. Side to side will make a change in half axle speeds which will be balanced out by the front and rear differentials. This is still not good for the differentials, arguably it can be worse repair-wise, since a worn out spider gear shaft in the diff can lead to failure in the form of chunks (the big kind) dropping out from under the car. Then you get stranded. Either way, with an AWD vehicle of any kind (not just Subaru), you NEED 4 tires, one of the same size, type, and wear, on each corner of the car to avoid wear and/or damage to the drivetrain. edit: 1/4" difference in circumference on a tire with an overall diameter of 26.4" (size of a 205/70/15 Yokohama Avid Touring S, according to Tire Rack) would be about 2.8mm overall diameter, 1.4mm tread depth.

The cheap ones have always worked best for me. FSM lists these as OE plugs for 97: Be sure to check gap before installation. It makes a big difference. Power loss started after the seafoam treatment, chances are it fouled the plugs, but you also said you found a loose vacuum hose. Change the plugs and wires and take it for a drive before troubleshooting anything else.

Mine will click when I pull the release but the spring isn't strong enough to lift the hood anymore so it doesn't look like it's popped. Try to get some fingers under the edge to lift up on the hood after you pull the release. You could also try pushing down on the hood (put your weight on it) to make the latch move a bit and help free it up.

A cam lobe is the part of the cam that looks like an egg. It's what opens the valve.

Not necessarily. If the pump is working but doesn't make the proper pressure it can be fine at idle but the low pressure will lead to problems at higher rpms or when under load. Generally the fuel pump is not the cause of low rpm issues, without there being other symptoms.

Looks nice! What's the little diaphragm thing attached to the number 1 intake runner? Oil pressure sensor?

SPRING RELEASE LEVER [Part# 30546AA050] Quantity: Subaru List Price:$5.87 Your Price:$4.22 on http://www.1stsubaruparts.com. Might be worth a trip to the local dealer. Have it in 3 or 4 days with no shipping cost. Junkyard is probably free though.