Fairtax4me

Sure it's the shock and not one of the other suspension bushings? Lots of parts back there that can squeak.

The fpr does not block the flow of fuel. There should always be fuel flowing back to the tank. Normal pressure for an ej22 should be 25-30 at idle. Should jump up to 35-40ish under snap throttle or with the vacuum line removed 99 if it has the cone type idle valve, those are known to be problematic. Could try cleaning the IAC, but usually those just need to be replaced.

Make sure all the doors are closed, lock it with the Fob, wait until you see the alarm led blinking, then unlock it. Then open the door and try starting. Give that a shot if you haven't already. On newer cars sometimes the immobilizer kicks in if you put the key In but don't start the car.

Awesome! Gonna be a great car for a long time with that kind of mileage. Get it caught up on fluid maintenance (diff oils, antifreeze, brake fluid, etc) and some fresh filters and a timing kit. Should be good for 100k easy.

Someone removed them. Not good because three of those relays are for the radiator fans. Kinda need those.

Is it an automatic trans? Auto trans you can usually pop the stub out with the axle. The proper sized punch makes all the difference on these. If you have part of the pin sticking out like in the picture above, use a grinder to cut the end off, you don't need to cut into the axle cup. Once that mangled end is cut down flush with the axle cup it will be much easier to knock the pin out. It also helps to put your punch in a socket and use a long socket extension so you have something to hold.

If it has a 4 wire TPS the idle switch in the TPS may not be closing. Make sure the throttle body bore and throttle plate are clean. You can use an ohmmeter to adjust the TPS if needed. Which intake manifold did you use?

Gas stations start with basically the same gas. Different additives are mixed in depending on that particular brands proprietal mix, and then transported to the store. P0420 has quite a few causes. Best place to start is with a tune-up. Spark plugs and wires, PCV valve, air and fuel filters. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks, and no exhaust leaks. An exhaust leak in-between the engine and cats will allow air into the exhaust stream and can throw off the o2 sensor readings. Old worn spark plugs may not be igniting the AF mixture properly, and will cause a higher oxygen and higher unburned fuel content in the exhaust which will alter the operation of the cats. Beyond that, O2 sensors. Using a scan tool to monitor voltage readings from the sensors will often reveal if one is reading incorrectly. If you don't have access to a scan tool, it's usually best to just replace both.

Use 5w-30 conventional oil. All you're really doing is breaking in the rings, so they need lots of oil. No special additives, just clean oil. Don't let it idle for long until you get it up to operating temp. Keep the RPMs between 1,500-2,500 to keep from fuel washing the cylinders. I usually change the oil after the first hour or so of running, then at 100 miles of normal driving. Then again somewhere between 500-1,000. You can change to synthetic after this if desired. No long steep hills or heavy acceleration, but don't drive like grandpa either. Keep the RPMs changing so the rings see different pressures while they're breaking in. Make sure the cooling system is full before the first start so you don't get an overheat condition waiting for the thermostat to open. Fill the block with coolant through the upper hose. If the tensioner is the one peice type I would replace it. Those don't take well to being re-compressed and re-used. Also on the first start, if you can, leave the plugs out and unplug the injectors. Crank the engine over with no load until the oil pressure light turns off. Pre-fill the oil filter so you don't have to wait for the pump to fill that before the engine gets oil.

Have you checked fuel pressure with a guage? The 00-04 models have problems with a cap on the pump bleeding fuel back into the tank. Check to make sure the #4 injector is clicking with a stethoscope. Also you could swap injectors 2-4 and see if the code moves with the injector.

Post in the classifieds here! Somebody is always parting out a car and has some extra bolts around. Are you looking for the long bolts that go through the caliper sliders? Or the short ones that hold the bracket on the knuckle?

Its in the wheel well behind the wheel. Removing the wheel isn't necessary, but helps a bunch to get it out of your way so you have more room to work. Remember to put the car on jack stands, don't just use a jack to support the car while you are working under it.

Parts listings just don't have the F on the end. The main 10 digit number is the important part, at least in this case. There are sometimes internal differences in the part depending on when it was manufactured, and that can be denoted by a different letter on the end, but generally as long as the first 10 digit number is the same, the part is functionally the same.

You can get an OE subaru trans mount for less than that from a dealer. https://www.subarupartsforyou.com/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=41022AC220

Gates kits are good. Ditch the paper water pump gasket and get an OE style metal gasket. Paper ones fall apart and start leaking.

Do you trust the work that shop did?

Fusible link probably burned out. In the underhood fuse box, looks like a black wire.

Pretty common for the pipe to be welded after the second cat. The flange rusts out and that's the easiest fix. Get it sealed up right and it'll be a good car!

The evaporator core is freezing up and the thermo-sensor on the core is turning the compressor off. Then it takes those couple 30-45 seconds for the core to defrost. Once defrosted the compressor is allowed to turn back on and it starts the freeze cycle over again. Probably could use a small amount of refrigerant added to it. The newer systems only hold about 18oz, so its probably 3-4 oz low.

Autozone rotors... Could be your answer there...

I would oil anything that's steel because it doesn't take any time for rust to form on bare steel. One night in a somewhat moist garage and you'll have surface rust. If the garage is temperature controlled, may not be an issue. I would try to get the garage as clean as you can beforehand. Sweep well and vacuum to remove dust. Wipe down the walls near your workbench with tack cloth. Doesn't have to be perfect, but the cleaner you can keep your build area, the better results you'll get, especially when installing new bearings and wen putting the pistons in. No point re-using the old piston rings. If the block is going to be tanked have the cylinders deglazed or get a stone hone and do them yourself. Pistons may be fine, but you may need to replace them if the anti-wear coatings on the skirts are worn off.

I would also suspect a slow leak at the water pump. What shop is that? Need to warn people not to go there.

If it has crap tires put some good ones on it. Good tires are worth it even if they don't fix the noise. (Peace of mind) You could try rotating them and see if the noise follows to the front. Probably a wheel bearing. Looks like 07 uses a pressed in bearing. If you have access to a press the job isn't bad but you may be better off having a shop do it.

Auto or manual? Honestly, I've never seen one go bad. The factory mounts are a little soft, but they last pretty much forever.

If you've done a timing job on the 05, the 96 will be a cake walk, (assuming its a 2.2) The problem with the oil pumps is that backing plate is inside, so oil pressure bleeds off internally. You never see the leak. And when the oil pressure light starts to flicker its down under 5psi oil pressure.