Fairtax4me

Warm engine compression should be something like 165 - 185 psi. (non turbo engine) I don't have time to dig through the FSM to find it ATM. Timing check is pretty simple, remove the belt covers (easier said than done sometimes) on the front of the engine to expose the cam sprockets. Three bolts hold each cover on. Look through some of the timing belt threads here, there are a few with good pics of the proper marks to use for alignment. Then you just turn the crank until the marks line up. If they don't match on both sides chances are the timing jumped. These have a hydraulic cylinder which applies constant pressure on the belt by pushing on a cam on the tensioner pulley. No adjustment necessary. It's probably fine, but this stuff is easy to check while you're waiting for other parts.

You sure it's a rod knock and not the timing belt tensioner flapping around? Or the water pump about to grenade?

If you're careful, you can yank the boot off the wire, and re-crimp the clamp back onto the end of the wire. But getting the boot back on is kind of a pita.

When working properly, absolutely. But there are plenty of threads here documenting drivability problems at all RPM due to faulty knock sensor.

Testing injectors at 9v proves nothing really. The ECU pulses that trigger the injectors are only 5v. Plus you have no idea what the spray pattern looks like or what the flow rate is. I didn't see this anywhere, did you do a compression check yet? Just for gits and shiggles? Also saw no mention that the valve timing has been checked and confirmed correct.

The knock sensor is famous for causing all sorts of trouble on Subarus. If you have a code for it, it probably needs to be replaced. Search for Knock Sensor here on the forums for directions on how to do it. There may be a link in the "similar threads" at the bottom of the page here.

Pretty obvious.

Ah, you want a challenge. Find a paint supply shop, and buy automotive grade paint and clearcoat (if you want a glossy finish). Good paint will hold up fine on wheels. And if they'll be sitting for a while before being put on the paint will have plenty of time to cure.

Pretty sure the OP states MT in the first post. As for the Neutral Position switch. Has nothing to do with starting on manual trans. Clutch switch on manual prevents starting, Inhibitor switch on auto trans will prevent starting. 3 different switches, 3 different names, 3 different functions. (3 number threes, 3 word sets, 3 words each! ) [/number game] There may be some small movement, but probably nothing to worry about. Not entirely sure how this particular valve works but if it doesn't move, don't try to force it. When you removed the IAC, did you reinstall it with a new gasket from Subaru? Very important because the old gaskets stretch and do not seat/seal properly if re-used. Don't go ordering more expensive parts until you get a better idea of what is going on. You'll just be throwing money at it, and may still not fix the problem. So it sets the code even if you free rev in neutral? Trans in neutral, foot off clutch correct? Just for gits and shiggles, check the two little connectors on the passenger side of the bell housing right up on op of the block. One grey (I think), one brown. Make sure they're both firmly connected. Not sure how much this will help, was the closest year I could find on short notice. Click the 2005.zip link to download the pdf, and you shall be blessed with the knowledge and instruction of Subaru FSM. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ (Factory Service Manual)

You'll smell it. You could also pull one plug at a time after priming the system 3 or 4 times and sniff around the hole. (that sounds kinda dirty to be honest... ) Fresh gas will be evident if there is a leak.

To check for a leaking injector? Just pull the plugs out. Much easier on these. Remove plugs, prime fuel system. Just don't try to crank it with the coil pack plugged in.

Not sure if that part gets "hot". Too much heat in one place on the windshield can actually cause it to crack. It also may only work when outside temp is below a certain point.

The neutral position switch tells the ECU when the trans is in gear, not when the clutch is engaged, and has nothing to do with starting. Just because there is no code for it, doesn't mean something can't be wrong. Fault codes are not tell all end all for diagnosis.

Hell no! It's OBD1! The damn thing could be on fire and it wouldn't throw a code. But in all seriousness, these are EXTREMELY picky about their "precious" knock sensors. If it's cracked you need a new one.

I could see this being a problem with the neutral position switch on the trans. When does the CEL come on again after you clear the code? Does it come back immediately at start, or only once the problem occurs?

Call your local dealer and ask who they use for wheel repairs. Theree are plenty of mobile wheel repair companies who can come to you and paint the wheel for you for $100 or so per wheel. Probably cheaper if you do the sanding.

Newer style intake. Older ones had the filter mounted on the passenger fender, and had a MAF sensor. It's at least 97. From other ppls posts looks like it's still a 2.2, just not the good 2.2. :-\

What is the vacuum reading on the gauge? Should be up in the 19-20" range at idle. AFAIK the ECU makes all changes to fuel/air mixture, there should be no adjustment on the throttle body, though I could be wrong about the older models. There is an adjustment for the IAC, but you need a select monitor to do it. I wouldn't mess with that any. To clean the IAC, just remove the idle air hose (the large one that goes to the IAC) from the intake tube, block the throttle open so the engine runs about 2000 rpm, and pour seafoam or some intake system cleaner (a little at a time) down the hose into the IAC. About half a can should do.

Timing Belt. Maybe. Kinda has that compression leaking sound when it cuts off. What year is it? Looks like a 2.5? Any smoke in the exhaust?

Yeah I figured it was there because you need to "persuade" something. The angle of the pic looks like it's stuck in the hub like a spinner!

Not bad. I like the hammer in the wheel mod! Roman chariot FTW!

Yeah the 16"s will fit. Pretty sure the lug pattern is the same for the two of those. Might want to check into that.

Oh believe me, I've done worse. It's probably not a huge deal that this particular circuit of the cooling system stay functional, but I already bought the other two hoses, and now I'm hell bent on finding the right part for this. It's gonna get replaced, dammit! It's OCD, it has to be just so, or it'll drive me crazy.

Go buy a cherry bomb (glasspack, aka: resonator) and stick it somewhere inline before the muffler, If that doesn't quiet it done enough you might have to get a muffler with smaller pipes. Maybe try a 2" or 2.25" rather than 2.5.

Bingo! More than likely, the P0420 code is the result of readings from the new sensor. Search P0420 and you'll find a thousand threads about it, and plenty of info about what to do to remedy the cause.